ECM power increase video

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Based on this video, laptop (and program) is enough to delete restriction.
I adjusted 99 Harley power commander fuel map manually.
Video shows %% of throttle opening as one of adjustable column. Let us say fuel map restricts throttle opening at 7000RPM to 50%, you just change it to 60 or 70.
It is possible that tires will start slipping if you increase %%. I don't think Yamaha engineers are stupid.
 
I found it interesting how much the factory restricted throttle in 5th gear. They only allow you 54%.
 
Not terribly impressed? The stock bikes we've tested generally put down 168-172 and you have to make successive back to back runs to get the combustion chamber heated up. There was a short moment where it showed they pulled a few times between the base pull and first pull with the derestriction. They hid those runs when they talked about.
My bike has basically the same header but with different air filter setup (good for a few hp but not huge numbers) and a Gurued Gear reflash (we also offer that service through them). We made 202 rwhp and 130lbs of torque. This was with race fuel (added about 7hp) but that still means we have a LOT more power then the tune the other shop is showing.
 

Attachments

  • UFODragbikeDynoRaceGas.png
    UFODragbikeDynoRaceGas.png
    354 KB
Perfect fuel ratio is 14.7, but your diagram shows 13.8 and 13.4, which means 5-7% of gas doesn't burn, killing O2 sensors, catalytic converter and spark plugs.
I would like to hear story about somebody, who got adjusted ECM and then paid for cat replacement!
 
Last edited:
Perfect fuel ratio is 14.7, but your diagram shows 13.8 and 13.4, which means 5-7% of gas doesn't burn, killing O2 sensors, catalytic converter and spark plugs.
I would like to hear story about somebody, who got adjusted ECM and then paid for cat replacement!
Likely absolutely no one...14.7 is indeed stoichiometric where the mixture of fuel and air is 'ideal' for a complete burn of both. 'Perfect' for a complete burn isn't 'perfect' for power and most naturally aspirated engines make the most power safely, and I stress safely as you can go leaner and get more power while risking things like detonation and burnt plug tips, etc., somewhere between 13 to 13.5-ish, give or take. Some will make more power at 12.8 while others might run better at 13.6, it all depends upon the engine and combustion chamber and piston shape, valve placement and valve/cam timing events, etc.

I played with tuning my Katana between 13.2 and 13.5. Most guys who are going to the trouble of tuning their bike are also doing an exhaust, which usually deletes the cat anyway, but a 13.5 ratio isn't going to kill a catalytic converter. If you look at factory tuned bikes or cars they never run at a perfect 14.7 either, which goes into the whole open vs. closed-loop discussion, etc.

Regardless, I have my Lightning tuned to run 11.8 at full throttle since it's supercharged and they usually tend to run them far richer than an N/A motor for safety reasons. It's got cats and I've never had an issue with them, nor do I see them needing a replacement as long as I own the truck.

Now leaded gas, as some guys have run previously at the strip for the octane rating and to ward off detonation, will foul and kill a cat in relatively short order.
 
Perfect fuel ratio is 14.7, but your diagram shows 13.8 and 13.4, which means 5-7% of gas doesn't burn, killing O2 sensors, catalytic converter and spark plugs.
I would like to hear story about somebody, who got adjusted ECM and then paid for cat replacement!
You're going by online numbers and not real world application. This is where we got the most power and torque for this particular setup. The gen 1's actually tend to make best overall power around 13:1 but under light loads (cruising) it's not uncommon to see 17 and even 18:1 for best economy. AND, as Mike noted. The Cat was removed a LONG time ago and was worth about 30-40lbs of dead weight and restriction.
 
Is there downstream O2 sensor? It has to be tricked somehow.
 
Is there downstream O2 sensor? It has to be tricked somehow.
Stock O2 is turned off in the flash...they're usually narrowband anyway and not real helpful for tuning.

I've got the same flashing software that Moore uses, in fact my '19 Hayabusa uses a Moore Mafia tune as the 'base' tune but modified for fueling at 6,300' above sea level, and you can set it up with a data logger and wideband O2 sensor to create A/F logs that you can then fine tune off of.

It doesn't do it automatically but will data log A/F ratio for you and you can configure the software to adjust fueling to change to a 'commanded' A/F ratio.

All of my bikes running the Woolich software have the add-on for A/F logging as no 'canned' tune is going to work where I am since they'd be running ridiculously rich.

Although, oddly enough, my VMAX came with a Guru flash and a Power Commander V with the Autotune setup. Haven't played with it much as it was a Colorado bike to begin with and didn't need any 'fine tuning'.
 
I'm just guessing but do we think the power was down a little on the bike Chris Moore was tuning because of the pipe and no tuning making it go lean ?? Most, including mine was right at 170 HP stock to the wheel. I have the same pipe along with the AirBoxMod and Gurued Tune and now it's @186+ HP. Is he using Woolich programing to flash his ECU's ? Just saw that Woolich does offer it for the Vmax also...
 
Back in July of 2021 when i talked with Tim Nash he told me Dyno Jet has done updates to there dyno soft ware since then the dyno numbers are down. He has dynoed many Vmax he knows what they dyno at with mods and said the numbers are lower compared to many years ago.
 
Is he using Woolich programing to flash his ECU's ? Just saw that Woolich does offer it for the Vmax also...
He definitely uses Woolich software...you can see it in some of his videos. I also called him about a 'base' 'Busa tune and specifically asked if he used Woolich software and whether or not he 'locked' his tunes as I wanted to be able to use the data logger on the tune to adjust as needed. He loaded the 'base' tune using a screen share on my laptop and did some editing on the fueling to compensate for the altitude I'm at to get me close.

They've had the VMAX flashing capability for a while now as I had looked into it when I first got my '09 but don't feel I really need it with the Guru flash and Autotune.
 
After watching the video again you can see the Woolich signage on the computer. Same here with the Guru flash and Auto tune...
 
Not terribly impressed? The stock bikes we've tested generally put down 168-172 and you have to make successive back to back runs to get the combustion chamber heated up. There was a short moment where it showed they pulled a few times between the base pull and first pull with the derestriction. They hid those runs when they talked about.
My bike has basically the same header but with different air filter setup (good for a few hp but not huge numbers) and a Gurued Gear reflash (we also offer that service through them). We made 202 rwhp and 130lbs of torque. This was with race fuel (added about 7hp) but that still means we have a LOT more power then the tune the other shop is showing.

Hey one2dmax, I would be hugely appreciative of your opinions if you could reply to my brand-new post ...

EXHAUST mid pipe / muffler mix and match

Thank you.....
 
I don't want to beat a dead horse here but just wondering has anybody had their Vmax dyno'd stock and have a HP curve like that were it falls off that bad ?? Mine didn't, it was at 170ish @ 9K. Regardless of the number I'm just concerned about how the curve fell off that bad...
 
I don't want to beat a dead horse here but just wondering has anybody had their Vmax dyno'd stock and have a HP curve like that were it falls off that bad ?? Mine didn't, it was at 170ish @ 9K. Regardless of the number I'm just concerned about how the curve fell off that bad...
Must have been in 4th gear
 
Vmax's should be in 4th gear when on the dyno. You always go for the gear that's 1:1 or the closest. Normally 1 down from the top (i.e. 4th in a 5 gear machine, 5th in a 6 gear machine, etc).
 
Back
Top