Electrical gremlins in the 1260!

[dannymax]

Thanks Mike, if I don't find anything in the connections maybe I can get lucky with part #'s and swap the diode off the '96 for a try....good idea!

OK, same part # so that's good!

 

[95spfldmax]

Danny, just a thought if your checking the key switch. Have a look at the large diode that's in that area (Item# 32 in pic). I had one go bad from being too close to valve cover and started causing alot of weird electrical issues.

Mike

That diode gave me problems a couple of years back but only when I washed the bike would it refuse to start right up. Siliconed it up and probs stopped.

But, Danny, I've had a few contacts go on the key switches over the years. Usually only caused minor issue like have to jiggle to get the lights to come on before I was able to change out. I could see something like that causing your problems. I have all junky ones in storage or I would loan you one.

 

[Miles Long]

As I mentioned before, hook up the power wire for your voltage gauge to the brown ignition wire, downstream of the connector.
This will go a long way to narrow down the source of the intermittent problem.
Cheers!

 

[dannymax]

Downstream as in between the connector and the ignition switch? Or back the other way?

 

[Miles Long]

Downstream as in between the connector and the ignition switch? Or back the other way?

The other way, Dan.
That way, if the bike begins to act up, and the volts drop off on the meter, the connector would be included as one of the trouble spots to look at.
An even better idea would be to eliminate the nasty connector altogether, after determining the ignition switch is O.K.

I'm thinking that you are losing power to the entire fuse box, on a intermittent basis, which of course would cause multiple problems because all the circuits would be effected. The volt meter, providing it reacts quickly enough, would show this interruption of flow to the box. Just a thought.
Cheers!
p.s. - what about the pickup coil connector? Did you check/ clean that?
Just another easy check.

 

[dannymax]

The other way, Dan.
That way, if the bike begins to act up, and the volts drop off on the meter, the connector would be included as one of the trouble spots to look at.
An even better idea would be to eliminate the nasty connector altogether, after determining the ignition switch is O.K.

I'm thinking that you are losing power to the entire fuse box, on a intermittent basis, which of course would cause multiple problems because all the circuits would be effected. The volt meter, providing it reacts quickly enough, would show this interruption of flow to the box. Just a thought.
Cheers!
p.s. - what about the pickup coil connector? Did you check/ clean that?
Just another easy check.

Thanks Miles.....where would one find this pick-up coil connector? :confused2:

 

[maleko89]

Dan-o, the wires come up along with the three white stator wires and it should be near side cover or near the left side of battery. Your '86 should have a 5-wire connector.

 

[dannymax]

Dan-o, the wires come up along with the three white stator wires and it should be near side cover or near the left side of battery. Your '86 should have a 5-wire connector.

Thanks Mark-o, I remember seeing it when doing the RR wires. :worthy:

 

[CaptainKyle]

Thanks Mark-o, I remember seeing it when doing the RR wires. :worthy:

Remember if your using the Yamaha manual for reference it tells you to use the wrong common for testing the Clymer manual has it right.

 

[dannymax]

Remember if your using the Yamaha manual for reference it tells you to use the wrong common for testing the Clymer manual has it right.

Luckily I have both....thanks Kyle! :worthy:

 

[dannymax]

The white 5-wire is the p/u coil wire I think (far right pic).....the separation just before the plastic may not be THE problem, but certainly could be A problem. I s'pose this is the first detachable connection in the line from the p/u coil huh? No easy plug 'n play replacement harness section? Didn't think so. :bang head:

The red/brownbrown/blue connections look good, shiny, di-electric'd up nicely, etc. The staked on blue wire is for the digital voltage gauge...it's a 3-wire, hot, cold, switched power for a trigger.

And the ignition switch seems ok to me also...I'll clean up the 3 contacts with the dark lines but the switch itself is tight with no fore play (or sumpin' like that!) :confused2:

I used 'old school' testing also....turn the switch on, shift to N and start jostling wires, keeping a sharp on the N light for a flicker.....nothing!

On to the fuses.unk:

 

[maleko89]

The white 5-wire is the p/u coil wire I think (far right pic).....the separation just before the plastic may not be THE problem, but certainly could be A problem. I s'pose this is the first detachable connection in the line from the p/u coil huh? No easy plug 'n play replacement harness section? Didn't think so. :bang head:

The red/brownbrown/blue connections look good, shiny, di-electric'd up nicely, etc. The staked on blue wire is for the digital voltage gauge...it's a 3-wire, hot, cold, switched power for a trigger.

And the ignition switch seems ok to me also...I'll clean up the 3 contacts with the dark lines but the switch itself is tight with no fore play (or sumpin' like that!) :confused2:

I used 'old school' testing also....turn the switch on, shift to N and start jostling wires, keeping a sharp on the N light for a flicker.....nothing!

On to the fuses.unk:

That could cause an issue. That looks like a stator lead though with the white wires? My early model had yellow, black, orange, etc?

 

[dannymax]

That could cause an issue. That looks like a stator lead though with the white wires? My early model had yellow, black, orange, etc?

I think those are the wire colors on the other side of that connector Mark, there's only 3 stator leads right?

Anyhow, I put the fuel pump relay off the '96 on and went for a 65 mile ride with a wide range of speeds & accelerations.....30 - 125....she purred.

Then I put the '86 fuel pump relay on the '96 and got nothing, no pump, lights, nothing, pretty sure they have the same part # but will have to check further....

I did fix that white wire Mark, isolated it, taped it then taped all 5 of them with many layers....not as good as shrink wrap but much better than bare nekked! :10_6_8:

When I got back my Odyssey battery was here so I quick installed it and went for another short spin....now she's REALLY happy!! :clapping:

 

[dannymax]

Almost forgot....before going for my ride I looked over every connector, connection, fuse spade, everything I could find, and other than the small bare spot on the white wire everything looks good, no corrosion anywhere. This bike was meticulously maintained, di-electric everywhere, every bolt I've removed has never-seize, kinda remarkable for an '86.

Anyhow, maybe I stumbled across the problem without knowing it, I don't know.....guess I'll just drive it and see what happens.

Thanks for all the help guys....'preciate it! :worthy:

 

[dannymax]

I think those are the wire colors on the other side of that connector Mark, there's only 3 stator leads right?

Anyhow, I put the fuel pump relay off the '96 on and went for a 65 mile ride with a wide range of speeds & accelerations.....30 - 125....she purred.

Then I put the '86 fuel pump relay on the '96 and got nothing, no pump, lights, nothing, pretty sure they have the same part # but will have to check further....

I did fix that white wire Mark, isolated it, taped it then taped all 5 of them with many layers....not as good as shrink wrap but much better than bare nekked! :10_6_8:

When I got back my Odyssey battery was here so I quick installed it and went for another short spin....now she's REALLY happy!! :clapping:

Ummm, think it was the flasher relay......:confused2:

 

[VMAX1260]

Danny just saw the thread. I had the same issue like you. didnt read all the posts cause they are too many. The sollution to my problem was the red/white that is linked between starter circuitcut off flash relay - fuel pump - and ignition . check for connectivity betwwen those three if you can not find connectivity (which was in my case from the starter circuit flash relay to the cdi) i install an extra wire from where the red /white comes out from the starter circuit cut off flash to the red / white that goes to the cdi and everything was solved

 

[dannymax]

I installed the later model '96 flasher relay yesterday before my ride and everything seemed to work fine. Put the '86 relay on the '96 but they don't appear compatible as there was no power to anything.

The question now is....considering that the later model '96 flasher relay seems to be functioning just fine....even tho it has a different part number from the OEM '86 relay....is it OK to use it, or could it end up creating other issues later on?

 

[dannymax]

OK, you guys that know electrical stuff are now saying, "Danny, this talk of flasher relay swapping makes no sense at all!" And you would be right....foolishly I looked at the Electrical 2 parts diagram to figure out what the name of the offending component was....but that was the wrong diagram!

The correct diagram should have been the "Control Unit" diagram....which at some point became the "Pick Up Coil Governor" diagram....
which makes no sense to me at all.........:ummm:

Anyhow, the offending component is the fuel pump relay, the part #'s are the same between the '86 & '96 so a swap should be ok.

I believe Mark-o mentioned this a couple hundred posts ago....sorry Mark! :worthy:

So I swapped them and gonna run it and see what happens....thanks for everybody's patience. unk:

 

[poppop]

Just saw this.Danny i really hope you have got it this time,You have been a great friend to all,Have you got it?Hell i dont know.But i do know you will,Sooner or later.Hope it's ok at least till fall.Then you got all winter.The very best of luck my friend.Terry.

 

[dannymax]

Hey thanks Terry! She's been happy 2 days in a row......last week she couldn't get in 2 happy miles, so we're definitely gaining ground! unk: