Electrical gremlins in the 1260!

[dannymax]

So much for me buying it cheap, eh danny?:biglaugh: Glad to hear you got it sorted:clapping:

Haha....yeah, I guess Bob, but if it's any consolation, if I was gonna sell it cheap, I'd sell it cheap to you! :biglaugh:

Great news Dan!
Did you put an in-line fuse in the new positive wire?

I didn't yet Miles but thanks for the reminder......I thought of it then forgot....what is the correct amperage fuse to use....30amp?

Not only are you a carb Guru, now you are an electrical Guru:clapping::clapping:

Oh jeez Joe....not even close!

Frustrating but great when it's solved.:clapping::clapping:

Dale

That's for sure Dale....and at the end it's like, 'all that over a little bad connection?'

 

[Miles Long]

I didn't yet Miles but thanks for the reminder......I thought of it then forgot....what is the correct amperage fuse to use....30amp?

Yup.
Those "Posi-lok" thingees look groovy. Mr. Redbone sure is sold on them.
Methinks he's got shares in the company.
Cheers!

 

[dannymax]

Thanks....yes, they are very cool little deals! :clapping:

 

[dannymax]

RAwarrior mentioned in his tutorial that running the red RR lead to the battery eliminates issues from the crimp connection....if so then IMO this is by far the easiest and best way to deal with the crimp and eliminate a spade connection to boot.

Just clip off the red lead, solder on a jumper, install an in-line fuse and bolt to the pos. battery terminal.

Budda bing Budda boom!

 

[CrackerRican]

That's some most excellent news BD!


Did you say inline fuse? Look at these: http://www.posi-lock.com/posi-fuse.cfm

Thanks for that link Brian, gonna order some posi-locks & replace all my bullet connectors

 

[CaptainKyle]

RAwarrior mentioned in his tutorial that running the red RR lead to the battery eliminates issues from the crimp connection....if so then IMO this is by far the easiest and best way to deal with the crimp and eliminate a spade connection to boot.

Just clip off the red lead, solder on a jumper, install an in-line fuse and bolt to the pos. battery terminal.

Budda bing Budda boom!

I have been running my positive direct to the battery with a 30 amp fuse for years & also the ground strait to the battery cuts out all the BS & I have never had any problems doing it that way

 

[dannymax]

I have been running my positive direct to the battery with a 30 amp fuse for years & also the ground strait to the battery cuts out all the BS & I have never had any problems doing it that way

There is absolutely no 'gauge drama' at all....no voltage jumping up or down....mine reads 14.5 at idle and 14.3 anywhere off idle....that's it! Nice and stable. I went way over on my wire size but a) it's what I had handy and b) it can't possibly hurt.

 

[dannymax]

That's some most excellent news BD!


Did you say inline fuse? Look at these: http://www.posi-lock.com/posi-fuse.cfm

Sorry BB, don't know how I missed this post....now I get the 'stock in the posi-lock company' post! :rofl_200:

Absolutely the bee's ***....cats knees.... ummm don't cha know!! A little worried about my wire size tho, thinking it may be 10 ga. unk:

 

[jfeagins]

Awesome!

 

[Redbone]

I didn't yet Miles but thanks for the reminder......I thought of it then forgot....what is the correct amperage fuse to use....30amp?

Yup.
Those "Posi-lok" thingees look groovy. Mr. Redbone sure is sold on them.
Methinks he's got shares in the company.
Cheers!

In a effort to have complete and full disclosure of the Posi-Lock company , their parent company, Swenco Products: I hold no shares of these companies, nor affiliates.
I do, however, have a stock of a good variety of their high quality products at my disposal. :biglaugh:

Thanks for that link Brian, gonna order some posi-locks & replace all my bullet connectors

I'm going to see if Gannon has these or can get them for us. I'm kinda new to them myself but the two connectors I have used were easy to install and have had no issues with them so far. Here is a good video on posi-lock products:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yiimgl-Rdmw

Sorry BB, don't know how I missed this post....now I get the 'stock in the posi-lock company' post! :rofl_200:

Absolutely the bee's ***....cats knees.... ummm don't cha know!! A little worried about my wire size tho, thinking it may be 10 ga. unk:

It appears they do not carry any fuse holders for a 10 ga. wire, I have to walk down to r and d, err give them a call about offering a 10-12 ga option in the future. There are plenty of good options out there for adding a in line fuse though.
I have to reiterate my full disclosure statement from above and to go along with said disclosure I have no affiliation with any salesmen that may show up at your door, nor with any, if any, targeted ads that make their way to your inbox. In the immortal words of Sargent Shultz: I KNOW NOTHING...I KNOW NOTHING!:rofl_200::eusa_dance::biglaugh:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmzsWxPLIOo

 

[Miles Long]

Ha ! Good one, Brian. I used to love that show.
Maybe I'll actually spend some money, and get me a few of those nifty Posi-locks. They would work great for connections that have to removed frequently, such as for fairing and stereo wiring.
Besides, I'm running out of Marr connectors.
Cheers!

 

[poppop]

So glad you got it.Now if youre anything like me youll hawkeye the hell out of everything for a week or two just till you feel ok .Sure glad you got it.Just makes life better when something not ******* with you.Enjoy the year my friend,Hope it goes great.Terry.

 

[dannymax]

So glad you got it.Now if youre anything like me youll hawkeye the hell out of everything for a week or two just till you feel ok .Sure glad you got it.Just makes life better when something not ******* with you.Enjoy the year my friend,Hope it goes great.Terry.

Thanks Terry....it's looking good so far! I really think the majority of the problem may have been right in the crimp connection, some with the RR to frame contact to but mainly the crimp.

 

[dannymax]

Well son of a gun....it happened again!

The bike has been sitting for about a week & a half, I checked the battery and it's down to 12.28v....which didn't surprise me, I'd figured the battery was history and ordered an new PC680 last Friday. I pulled the bike out anyway and surprisingly it fired right up so after a short warm-up I took off....ran an errand which required a shut down & re-start which was fine. Then for a nice spirited 5 mile bunch of twisties to the Parkway, then headed for home.

Just coming off the entrance ramp and decided to spool her up a bit....glanced down at the tach, it had just reached 5K (think I was in 3rd) when suddenly the tach reading dropped in half to 2500 and the temp gauge dropped down also. Thought 'that ain't good' but glad I was headed for home. Only made it a mile or so and she began to miss and run like crap....then quit completely so I pulled off the road, tried to find neutral but no green light, neutral was there but no neutral light...:confused2:

Turned the key off, then back on after a few seconds....fuel pump started clicking, neutral light is now on and the temp gauge went up to about halfway, hit the starter button and she fired right up and I drove the remaining 5 miles back home without incident.

I'm not in a major panic just yet, want to install the Odyssey (which will be here tomorrow) and see how she acts then, but curious.....could a bad battery cause such a problem as this?

It's the same issue I was having before changing the RR and wiring the red & black RR leads to the battery....that seemed to fix everything, only difference with yesterday is the battery was a lot lower.

 

[jfeagins]

Doesn't sound like any battery problem I've ever heard before. Sound's more like a major connector gremlin to me. Heats up, or vibrates to a loose condition, shuts everything down, or nearly down. Then after it's cooled just a bit, reconnects enough to get the job done.

You say you inspected the main fuse holders and the wiring leading into, and out of, all the connectors close by it???

Key switch and it's connectors?

Kill switch and it's connectors?

I'm stumped.

 

[maleko89]

Dan-o, I'd disassemble your key switch and remove that connector while in there. I use fine emery cloth on the contacts and soldered ends on the three switch wires.

 

[sdt354]

I was just getting her ready and discovered the spade connection at my 30 amp main fuse was looking bad. Hanging by not all the strands. I already did the crimp fix, a while back. After redoing the spade connections my voltage at idle jumped up to 14 volts. Previously 13.4. It's another place for some voltage drop on an older or any bike. Thought I'd throw that out there Dann-o

 

[dannymax]

Thanks guys, all agree....it's probly a connector or electrical fitting of some sort.....I missed something, going to go back over it all.

I did run into a problem once with the famous 3-wire connector on my XJ, it was shorting across the red/brown wires inside the connector and there was absolutely no indication of a problem looking at the connector....I even looked thru a magnifying glass for a tiny crack in the plastic partition or discoloration and there was nothing!

Thanks for the info.....:worthy:

 

[maxcruiser]

Danny, just a thought if your checking the key switch. Have a look at the large diode that's in that area (Item# 32 in pic). I had one go bad from being too close to valve cover and started causing alot of weird electrical issues.

Mike

 

[dannymax]

Thanks Mike, if I don't find anything in the connections maybe I can get lucky with part #'s and swap the diode off the '96 for a try....good idea!