Electrical gremlins in the 1260!

[jfeagins]

I missed the part where you stated the weird stuff was happening when you disconnected the Neg battery cable FROM THE MOTOR. That'd explain a lot. I read it too fast, and thought you had all that happening with the ground removed from your battery terminal. It's what I get for reading too quickly.


When I want to check continuity across a connector, I will touch one of the meter probe wires to a bare spot of the wire where it first enters the connector. The other meter probe wire is then simply touched to the bare end of the connector. The meter readout will tell you if there exists any 'resistance' across the two points. If there is, then you have some corrosion inside the connection. If there is no resistance, the connection is a good one.

If I can't get onto a bare spot of the wire where it enters a connector, I will cheat by using a second tool I have that contains a very sharp metal end. That tool is my 12V test light, made to puncture through a wires' insulation. Once I've inserted the sharp end of the 12V test light into the wire, I clamp onto the sharp end with a small wire I've put together which has little alligator clamps at both ends. The other end of that wire, I will clamp to one of my meter probes. etc...

 

[dannymax]

Yeah....that would be some magnum sized gremlins for sure! :biglaugh:

Gee, I think I can handle that....I even have the test light with needle sharp probe on the end for poking thru insulation....and often a fingertip or two when it skids off the insulation.

Now to really show my dumbness.....what setting on the multi-meter? The one that looks like little headphones?

Thanks!



"Dammit Jim, I'm a carb man not an electrician!" (Spoken in my best Star Trek-eez!) :rofl_200:

 

[Traumahawk]

"Dammit Jim, I'm a carb man not an electrician!" (Spoken in my best Star Trek-eez!) :rofl_200:

Shouldnt that be Dammit "Jeff"?:rofl_200:

 

[dannymax]

Shouldnt that be Dammit "Jeff"?:rofl_200:

:rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:

 

[jagco1]

Think it was getting ground from maybe the fan by-pass switch or voltage meter cause when I disconnected everything from the battery (not just the ground by the oil fill) it killed the power.

Might have found the problem, the left rearfoot peg bracket to frame contact points were all rusty and the R/R to bracket surfaces had some corrosion, after cleaning them all up the voltage at idle had jumped up a half volt or so and the bike sat running for a long time without problems.

Oddly, partway through my ground cleaning today I noticed the servo motor had quit cycling....all it would do is hum, so I unplugged it. After cleaning up the R/R grounds I plugged it back in and it cycled normally....much to my surprise. :clapping:

It's been raining all day but hopefully tomorrow I can get it out for a road test, see how she goes then.

No Jim, I'm not doing the ohm testing....I don't know how. Like I said, I've been very fortunate to date but think that has changed and I will need to learn these things very soon....like maybe tonight! unk:

:clapping: good job Danny glad it work out for you.

 

[dannymax]

:clapping: good job Danny glad it work out for you.

Won't know till I can get her out for a few 'spirited' miles.....but hoping! Thanks!

 

[Redbone]

Think it was getting ground from maybe the fan by-pass switch or voltage meter cause when I disconnected everything from the battery (not just the ground by the oil fill) it killed the power.

Might have found the problem, the left rearfoot peg bracket to frame contact points were all rusty and the R/R to bracket surfaces had some corrosion, after cleaning them all up the voltage at idle had jumped up a half volt or so and the bike sat running for a long time without problems.

Oddly, partway through my ground cleaning today I noticed the servo motor had quit cycling....all it would do is hum, so I unplugged it. After cleaning up the R/R grounds I plugged it back in and it cycled normally....much to my surprise. :clapping:

It's been raining all day but hopefully tomorrow I can get it out for a road test, see how she goes then.

No Jim, I'm not doing the ohm testing....I don't know how. Like I said, I've been very fortunate to date but think that has changed and I will need to learn these things very soon....like maybe tonight! unk:

I have been removing the L rear footpeg bracket every winter and always found some corrosion. Even the upright bracket that bolts on by the top shock mount would have corrosion. Each time I would clean up the corrosion get it nice clean bare metal and applied the dielectric grease to seal everything up.
I am doing the change over to a mofset style R/R and get away from a footpeg mount R/R. I am moving it to under the lh scoop and put in place of the Vboost connector/ relay.

 

[dannymax]

I have been removing the L rear footpeg bracket every winter and always found some corrosion. Even the upright bracket that bolts on by the top shock mount would have corrosion. Each time I would clean up the corrosion get it nice clean bare metal and applied the dielectric grease to seal everything up.
I am doing the change over to a mofset style R/R and get away from a footpeg mount R/R. I am moving it to under the lh scoop and put in place of the Vboost connector/ relay.

That sounds like a good addition to annual maintenance....and it's of critical importance too! One mounting screw has an additional ground but thinking I may add another one on the other screw...certainly can't hurt.

 

[Redbone]

That sounds like a good addition to annual maintenance....and it's of critical importance too! One mounting screw has an additional ground but thinking I may add another one on the other screw...certainly can't hurt.

Yes sir, I didn't do it the first year or two I owned it and while taking the bike apart I saw all this corrosion but just on that particular area. All the corrosion was on the mounting points so being the smart fella that I am I immediately got on here to see if there was any posts about it. I can't remember for sure if I found said post(s) but I remember Jim and or Mike telling me that I need to keep a close eye on those connections as it had to maintain the ground for the charging system. I think it was on the Manitoulin Island ride, if I remember correctly.

 

[maleko89]

Yes sir, I didn't do it the first year or two I owned it and while taking the bike apart I saw all this corrosion but just on that particular area. All the corrosion was on the mounting points so being the smart fella that I am I immediately got on here to see if there was any posts about it. I can't remember for sure if I found said post(s) but I remember Jim and or Mike telling me that I need to keep a close eye on those connections as it had to maintain the ground for the charging system. I think it was on the Manitoulin Island ride, if I remember correctly.

I need to clean mine up. That thing is so close to the ground and elements it's no wonder it goes down hill so fast!

 

[jfeagins]

Shouldnt that be Dammit "Jeff"?:rofl_200:

You funny man Terry! :biglaugh:




Danny, if you simply put on the newer version of the R/R, it can mount exactly like the OEM, but you need to invest in two slightly longer screws to mount it. No addt'l wiring necessary with the updated version, EXCEPT you will need to run it's dedicated ground wire up to somewhere (I ran directly to the battery) over on the main bike frame, or battery. That will take care of any ann'l maintenance issues with your left rear foot peg assy. To me, this was by far the easiest solution.

 

[dannymax]

You funny man Terry! :biglaugh:




Danny, if you simply put on the newer version of the R/R, it can mount exactly like the OEM, but you need to invest in two slightly longer screws to mount it. No addt'l wiring necessary with the updated version, EXCEPT you will need to run it's dedicated ground wire up to somewhere (I ran directly to the battery) over on the main bike frame, or battery. That will take care of any ann'l maintenance issues with your left rear foot peg assy. To me, this was by far the easiest solution.

Thought his name was Alrich....:confused2:

That sounds good Jim, the newer version R/R is found on later model VMaxi?
Maybe I even have one on the '96 carb test bike?

 

[jfeagins]

Thought his name was Alrich....:confused2:

That sounds good Jim, the newer version R/R is found on later model VMaxi?
Maybe I even have one on the '96 carb test bike?

I'm not sure what year the Vmax went to the newer finned style. (he!!, it might be from a Venture, not sure) I simply put in an email to our tried and true Guru near Wichita and Sean had one to me before I had time to write a check. Easy peazy.

 

[maleko89]

I'm not sure what year the Vmax went to the newer finned style. (he!!, it might be from a Venture, not sure) I simply put in an email to our tried and true Guru near Wichita and Sean had one to me before I had time to write a check. Easy peazy.

Newer style started in '96. although, my '99 has the older style. :damn angry:

 

[jfeagins]

Newer style started in '96. although, my '99 has the older style. :damn angry:

[email protected] = easy fix. :biglaugh:

 

[Redbone]

I went the newer style unit that is same unit that is the same type on a R1 (FH012aa). It took a while searching but I came up with one for $45, it came off a Yamaha side by side. Sean probably has a stack of them in his shop though.

You funny man Terry! :biglaugh:
Danny, if you simply put on the newer version of the R/R, it can mount exactly like the OEM, but you need to invest in two slightly longer screws to mount it. No addt'l wiring necessary with the updated version, EXCEPT you will need to run it's dedicated ground wire up to somewhere (I ran directly to the battery) over on the main bike frame, or battery. That will take care of any ann'l maintenance issues with your left rear foot peg assy. To me, this was by far the easiest solution.

That's good to know Jim, I'll have to check that out. I would just have to add a longer positive cable since my aftermarket ground cable kit included a new heavier gauge wire.

 

[dannymax]

Well, I can at least use the '96 to swap and see if it makes a change....cause I'm not out of the woods yet. The ground cleaning made a difference but there's more going on.

Just got back from a 15 mi. ride....the bike ran fine, gauges seemed fine and as near as I could tell, no problems at all. Topped up with gas, pushed the start button....nothing! I pushed it a few more times and started hearing a clicking noise....a few more times and it caught and started.

I scampered right home, put it on the lift and tried to start it, it barely turns over, voltage shows 'LO'.

When it was running it was showing an idle voltage of 14.4 on the digital gauge but rev the motor to 2500 and it drops to 13.3 or so....and as I was driving back from the gas station it dropped down to 12.8 at one point.

Is this a R/R problem or something else? And is there a way to tell by looking if my '96 has the newer style R/R?

BTW, the bike has always showed a higher idle voltage than when it was revved up.

 

[jfeagins]

The newer style ones have fins.

If the stator is putting out, and the voltage is not getting to the battery/gauges, then I'd think it would have to be a bad r/r.

 

[dannymax]

The newer style ones have fins.

If the stator is putting out, and the voltage is not getting to the battery/gauges, then I'd think it would have to be a bad r/r.

OK, it should be easy to tell....the one on it now was smooth faced.

Yeah, the stator is kind of like a black dog behind me right now....not sure yet if it's a problem or not but maybe a quick R/R swap will reveal the truth....if it's favorable then off to Wichita we go....or at least call there.

Thanks for the info. :worthy:

 

[Traumahawk]

Thought his name was Alrich....:confused2:

I personally like the name Alowishus. unk: