Finishing Toasted... Suggestions?

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CodeRedd

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Farmington Hills, Mi
Hey VMAX Team!
Been loving the first week of my New (to me lol) 1998 VMAX 1200. Finally started working on some of the cosmetics and Lighting upgrades I want to tackle. The bike I purchased is mechanically sound from front to back, but the guy very practical and was not concerned about keeping her super pretty...

The finish on the fake Ram scoops in particular is pretty beat up and worn on both, I'll attach pictures...
For ***** and giggles I tried cleaning and polishing which really only showed me how bad the truly is...
Think I'm just going to paint them to match the black wheels as that's the easiest solution, but before I do any thoughts on other options or what i could maybe do to maybe restore them?

Thanks!
 

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Hello. Polishing them will put them like new, for real don't worry about it. It takes like an hour each one, but they get amazing. Just be patient with it. Remember they have clear-coat from stock, so polishing them without stripping that will do nothing. I suggest a good transparent primer and new clear coat after it, so they last ten years as new instead just 10 days.

I'm attatching a couple of examples I did some years ago. Really, it has very good fixing.
 

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Hello. Polishing them will put them like new, for real don't worry about it. It takes like an hour each one, but they get amazing. Just be patient with it. Remember they have clear-coat from stock, so polishing them without stripping that will do nothing. I suggest a good transparent primer and new clear coat after it, so they last ten years as new instead just 10 days.

I'm attatching a couple of examples I did some years ago. Really, it has very good fixing.
So do you need a spray gun for primer and clear coat? Or can you get it in rattle cans¿
 
So that gives you a almost chrome looking finish? I have a new winter project, maybe sooner!!
No, not realy.
I
Done properly they are shiny but not as much as chrome.
The important point to note in the guide is that when you move to the next grit you need to remove all of the scratches from the previous grit before moving on.

Now they look all shiny what next?

If you add clear coat depends on the weather condition where you live (rain and salt = bad) and if you are an all weather rider.

IMO they look better uncoated.
If like me, you had enough of getting wet when younger and don't need to ride in inclement weather then all that will be required is an occasional buff up will keep them looking good.

However, if they need protection then a clear coat is the way to go. You can do them with rattle cans and whist it is possible to get a good finish (more elbow grease required) the coating isn't as resilient as (say) a two pack lacquer. It would be worthwhile having a word with a couple of bodyshops to see how much it would cost to adding your scoops when applying a clear coat to one of their jobs.

Another alternative is clear powder coating. Whist I don't like paint lacquer I like clear coat powder coating less. To my eyes (at least) it look 'thick'.
 
I like Martin Senour Alumi blast spray cans for refinishing aluminum castings. This pair was pretty-rough. I used aircraft stripper to remove the OEM treatment.

See for yourself how the product works.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/painting-aluminum-parts.47436/

Before:

1726796564575.png

After (first coat):

1726796661511.png

After (second coat):

1726796803602.png

Several parts together after painting:

1726796847244.png 1726796914507.png
 
No, not realy.
I
Done properly they are shiny but not as much as chrome.
The important point to note in the guide is that when you move to the next grit you need to remove all of the scratches from the previous grit before moving on.

Now they look all shiny what next?

If you add clear coat depends on the weather condition where you live (rain and salt = bad) and if you are an all weather rider.

IMO they look better uncoated.
If like me, you had enough of getting wet when younger and don't need to ride in inclement weather then all that will be required is an occasional buff up will keep them looking good.

However, if they need protection then a clear coat is the way to go. You can do them with rattle cans and whist it is possible to get a good finish (more elbow grease required) the coating isn't as resilient as (say) a two pack lacquer. It would be worthwhile having a word with a couple of bodyshops to see how much it would cost to adding your scoops when applying a clear coat to one of their jobs.

Another alternative is clear powder coating. Whist I don't like paint lacquer I like clear coat powder coating less. To my eyes (at least) it look 'thick'.
Well put.
Getting all the scratches out is a must. I went all the way to .000 steel wool. Then used a polishing wheel( with compund)
No clear coat.
Just a quick touch up. With some good Ole MOTHERS.
 
Even a scratched/gouged/broken scoop can be successfully repaired. I'm not an experienced welder to be able to do the repair, but I had a deeply-gouged scoop I had a friend MIG weld for me, which I then used body filler to establish/fill the area of the damage, the crease in the middle of the scoop. After painting, you couldn't see any apparent damage. It was a success.
 
They weld like **** but can be welded. You'll never get it to polish or chrome but it can be filled in and painted. I have good scoops here but i'm not necessarily the cheapest guy to get them from.
 
They weld like **** but can be welded. You'll never get it to polish or chrome but it can be filled in and painted. I have good scoops here but i'm not necessarily the cheapest guy to get them from.
The knowledge and products you provide. Are worth a few extra $$$.
Not to mention .you stand behind everything you sell.(new or used)
 
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