First valve adjust questions

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As the valvetrain wears the valves recess into the head and the clearance gets less and less. So, to answer your question - yes, that's plenty normal.

Sean
 
OK great, thanks for that information.

I don't see any boogered-up mess of the hardware except on the rear signals and wiring. I'm pretty sure they were replaced and that something else was on there. The cut wires are just taped up back there, but the stock connectors are intact.
I was pleased to see marks on the hardware for changing the final drive oil and flushing the coolant, meaning it had at least been done before.
This bike looks like it was pretty well cared for.

The shims aren't beat up or worn out, they just look like they spent some time getting shuffled around in a box with other shims or something. Like coins when they've been in circulation.
 
OK great, thanks for that information.

I don't see any boogered-up mess of the hardware except on the rear signals and wiring. I'm pretty sure they were replaced and that something else was on there. The cut wires are just taped up back there, but the stock connectors are intact.
I was pleased to see marks on the hardware for changing the final drive oil and flushing the coolant, meaning it had at least been done before.
This bike looks like it was pretty well cared for.

The shims aren't beat up or worn out, they just look like they spent some time getting shuffled around in a box with other shims or something. Like coins when they've been in circulation.

If you need connectors NAPA (and prolly most other auto parts stores) has a revolving rack with all sorts of different connectors available.
 
OK I'm holding a big box of Yamaha shims now.

The Clymer's has the table of which shim to put in there based on the measurements I got with the feeler gauge. The table only goes in increments of .05 but the shims I'm holding and the ones in the bike go in increments of .01.

So do I put in the one the table says, then go back and measure it over and put in a different shim to get it closer, ad nauseum, or is there a formula I'm missing?

Also, if I must err on one side or the other, is the smaller shim (i.e. the larger gap) preferable?
 
Yeah, I have a formula at home. But, basically ignore the table in the book and make sure all intakes are .005 inches and all exhausts are .011 inches.
 
Remove the old shim, mic the thickness, get another shim that is the difference you want to be and put it back in, rotate the engine at least one lobes revolution over the shim, then remeasure and repeat. It's easiest to do both shims the tool opens up at one time.

The only thing I use the numbers for is a reference for me to look for a smaller or larger number.

Sean
 
This form I made up might help.
 

Attachments

  • Vmax Valve Adj Sheet - Word.doc
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Here's the formula. Find the difference between desired clearance and your current clearance. Take the result and divide by 3.937. Then, either add or subtract that from your current shim depending on whether you need to increase or decrease clearance. Subtract to increase and add to decrease.

For example, let's say your current shim is a 262 and the current intake clearance is .006 inches. The desired clearance for intakes is .005 inches and exhaust is .011 inches.

So...

Difference between clearances is .006 - .005 = .001 inches.

(.001 / 3.937) = 2.54

Since we need to decrease clearance we need to add the current shim.

2.54 + 262 = 264.54. So , desired shim would be a 265.

Make sense?
 
Thanks for the good info, and a form I can put with my records.

I'm trying to get this done so I can return the shims tomorrow. Gonna be a long night. I appreciate the help, probably be back here shortly asking more questions....
 
FECK FECK FECK FECK FECK!!!

Lousy pathetic humongous box of shims I was so kindly loaned had the right sizes to do exactly TWO valves. Must be 200 shims in that box but none of them are the right thickness, all way to big or way too small.

None of the asz-munching dealerships in this town does shim exchange but they will gladly sell me new ones. I'm making so many errors in the calculations that I can't possibly know exactly which ones to put in there, it's no good ordering new. The bike's been down for a week now and I've done exactly ONE intake of ONE piston. All thanks to this worthless box of shims ("Sure, you can use my Yamaha shims to do your valves, yuk yuk yuk!") and the money-grubbing bogs of incompetence called dealerships in this town, who incidentally are the exact reason I work on my own bikes, even if it does take me two weeks to do a valve adjust. They have never ever touched a bike of mine without giving it back damaged, ever.

Dammit I'm trying to do this the best way I can but the ignorance from within and without is killing me!

:bang head::bang head::bang head:
 
Ohh the joys of wrenching on a VMAX. IK see I am not the onlyone that cusses up a storm when working on a VMAX.. Just makes me want to go out and blow up this engine to do it all over again... Hmmmm let me think about that.... Nahhh shiftlite set at 9200 for me..

Valves.. Better to be a little loose then tight I think. When everything heats up the tolerances do also. Remember that... Valves seal better when they are a little loose rather then to tight.

I want to kicks that persons ass that designed the underbucket shim style, why cant it be like the GSXR gimme an 8mm and a 4mm and feeler gauges and I am done in 45 mins... Keep your stinking shims Yamaha
 
The Vmax (1st Gen anyway) uses a shim 'over' bucket design, not under. The bikes that use 'under' bucket design have to have the clearance measured, then cams pulled, then replace shims, then replace cams, then remeasure. Now that makes for some good ol' cussin' !!!

Vinnie
 
Yeah, I kind of figured the Gen 2 would go that route. Seems all the newer high performance bikes use that style. I wonder how many people are actually doing the shims if they need to be done. My brother has an Honda ST1100 and it uses a shim under style (even though it's not a high performer). He checked his own valves but told me that unless they were way off, he had no intention of messing with removing the cams. I think the dealer would have charged a hell of a lot to do it.
 
I've got pics I can show you of what happens when you let shim unders get loose. It ain't purty.

Sean
 
I just got my hands on Sean's tool 5 minutes ago. Quite some tool he's got there.



:clapping:



I mean, Sean's big box 'o shims with the valve adjust tool. :biglaugh:

There's lots more variety of sizes in this lot. Sean, the box is in pieces. I tried to duct-tape it up but it's coming apart on the top and the bottom. I'm going to contribute my extra jewelry box which is a tad bigger but is the same kind of box. Not like I have much jewelry in it, I always snag jewelry on gloves and helmets and break it.
 
Dammit, that's the 3rd box broke in shipping! Hell, I thought we packed it up a bit better. Oh well I guess that's what I get for sending that much weight in a plastic container. If you wish to contribute thats great and appreciated. If there is anyone else needing to use the kit you may as well let Jenn know and she can send it to you and start helping save some travel time and shipping cost.

Sean
 
Cylinder #3 intake, the cap that has the shim in it won't rotate. No matter where the camshaft is, I can't get that notch to move at all. It won't move with the tool on top of it; it won't move no matter where in the rotation, not even if I'm trying to prod it along with a pick or screwdriver.

The other cap on that one moves fine. It won't move with my fingers but I can nudge it with a pick.

Any suggestions?
 
It goes up/down like the other buckets though? I'm not sure what's up with that. You may have to get a 90 degree pick tool to get that shim out.
 
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