Frame Rust '98

[billy1ear]

As I was putting my exhaust back on I saw some rust on the bottom of the frame a few inches behind the sidestand. Can I just have a gusset plate welded over it?
It is a 20yr old scooter I don't think I want to find a frame and swap it out.
Included some snapshots.

Thanks in advance.

 

[one2dmax]

Yikes! That's bad! I have good frames for cheap or I can hack up a frame here and let you section the bad part if you have a local welder that can do the work for you (or yourself).

 

[Bill Seward]

I'd be checking the rest of that frame REAL carefully. Years ago, a friend of mine had one of those XT500s, and the frame cracked as he was riding it, due to rust. If memory serves, Yamaha replaced the frame. Next time out to the garage, I'm gonna take a look at Godzillas frame tubes. That would be a crappy way to lose a bike. If you could find good metal not too far from the rusted area, you may be able to weld something to the frame to repair it. But I'd find a really good welder to do it.

 

[Bill Seward]

Sean, a segment of a good but damaged frame would be a great idea. If you were to try to fix that rust, would you try to just butt weld the part in place, or maybe get some metal sleeves to strengthen the joint?

 

[[email protected]]

Looks to be on the shifter side.

Too bad it wasn't on the other side on the removable piece. That would make life too easy.

People weld on frames all the time. I wouldn't hesitate to have it welded up by someone with skill.

If you don't like the idea of repair there are plenty of vmax frames for sale out there if you ask. Swapping everything over isn't all that complicated.

 

[billy1ear]

Thanks for the replies.
If I do a section I will have to at least remove the motor. If can do a gusset or patch overlay they might be able to weld it on as is. Really don't want to have to tear it apart. Pretty bummed about it.
Might just find a replacement scooter for about $3500 and move my favorite parts over to the new one and sell the old one after the parts swap. This one wasn't loved by the po but it was low mileage and ran well. Didn't see the rust though. Been riding like that for 5 years. Wont ride it anymore like this.
And yes if I sell it I will let them know about the rust.

 

[Fire-medic]

Flood bike? None that I've owned have had that bad damage. No perforation anywhere that I've seen. I'll double check.

I think the right way to do it is to use inner pipes where the butt joint is, and a chamfer at the joint for good penetration, probably on a frame jig, to ensure you aren't building-in some bad geometry to the frame layout. Yes, I think this would require a tear-down, it might be easier to pick-up a cheap good quality frame, and to swap your stuff over.

Maybe you could use the old frame as a building jig for engine work?

 

[adambweird]

Im with Fire medic. Its a simple enough surgery, definately going to want a thick walled tube on the inside and a 3/32" gap between both ends of the new section in addition to chamfering all edges so youve got good penetration on all surfaces. Id use 316 stainless for the innertube if possible and weld it with 309 filler.

 

[sdt354]

If it was me, I'd chuck that frame. Good chance there are other weak areas. Get the replacement blasted and painted up nice. Of course Sean might have one that's nice already. You should be able to use an early frame too.
Steve

 

[Traumahawk]

Depending on what you buy, frames are a couple hundred dollars, thats it.......and there might be other areas of rust.

 

[dannymax]

Almost looks like something (salt water :confused2 settled in that particular section of frame and worked it's way out. I'm with Steve-o, I'd lose that frame (and any other problems it might be hiding) and get a good frame from Sean.

The amount of work to fix it correctly isn't all that much different from moving everything over to a good frame.

 

[The mongrel]

I'd deffo go for a new frame. You say this max is low mileage but unloved.....no better excuse for a re-build

Everything off to the powder coaters, engine paint, all those little bits polished and cleaned

If you have a complete and running bike on one side of the workshop and a bare frame on the other its really easy to swap everything over

 

[billy1ear]

I think the folks that are of the mind that the rest of the frame would be sketchy after you patched the hole are right. Not sure if I want to do one though.
IM'ed Sean about what he had.
Would have to figure out what the state requirements are as the vin on the fork tube is what they go by for titles here I think.
So the frame would likely have to come with a title.
Would have to have it shipped.
Then I would talk myself into powder coating it.
New swing arm bearings, fork tube bearings etc.
Am thinking after all that I would be at $1000 at a minimum.
On top of the cost and my mediocre shade tree skills, I would have to kick my wife's car outta the garage to make room. She is nice to me most of the time, don't want to screw that up.
The buy another at $3500 and sell the old one and maybe get $1500 may be the best option for me.

The gears are still turning in my head, thanks for all the good input.

 

[one2dmax]

$100-$400 for the frame with title depending on what all you want with it. I do have a red candy coated raked frame that i'd take $500. It's had a neck rake so doesn't have a vin at all. You can swap your parts over and get a replacement stamping from the DMV (usually a sticker) by telling them you had your frame customized.

The pictures show what it looked like when we did the initial assembly (customer went a different route).

 

[one2dmax]

I've probably even got some Texas titled frames around here.

 

[billy1ear]

Just an fyi. This is the only reply I have gotten so far about repairs..

That seems to need a new tube for the frame seeing as its in the bend there is not much you can do to fix that. From a liability stand point I wouldn't want to try and patch that up.
Thanks Matt

 

[jinks]

This is a job for a professional . I have done this kinda thing in the past......welding on Hard tail sections ect. Its not that simple, especially if the engine is in the bike. Once you cut out that section "the frame is gonna move out of Spec. Even with the motor out you gotta be really careful, & here's why- As you are welding & heating the frame , "its pulling in that direction of the heat. Put the new piece in , with "inner tubing" & spot weld both ends - up, down, left right,..to stop the " bending , pulling that's gonna happen the moment you start welding. It absolutely can be done with prior knowledge of what will take place as you cut & weld.

If you plan on doing this your self, here is a very helpful video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1GTgDQFE4A

 

[billy1ear]

Wanted to post a status in case someone else found this because they had the same problem.
Sold the bike to a friend and he ended up ordering a frame from Sean and has it about 2/3 back together.
When he got it apart he found more rot in the frame, so there was no way to salvage it.
Hope no one else finds this post while searching due to the same problem, but if they do it should help making the call.
On the bright side at least I'll have someone new to ride with.
Thanks again for all the replies.