General starting issues

[Jhbox13]

@[email protected]
Well well well, looks like that vacuum hose coming off the #2 has a great big tear in it! You may have done it good sir, I'll let you know how it goes!

@dmax
I'll never say 100%, but I'm 95% sure it's fine. I ran through the electrics with a fine tooth comb to diagnose the pickup coil before seeing it's damage. The plug only plugs in one way, and the wire colors match up. We are talking about the same file pin plug. I was referring to the length of the wires that go inside the stator cover. There is no way to mount the pickups wrong, the wires inside the cover dictate their position.

 

[Jhbox13]

Well I'm still stumped. Fixed the vacuum hose and even pulled the carbs back off and adjusted the floats. The best it will do is the occasional backfire.

I tell you, it seems like it's nit getting gas, at least that's how it's acting to me.... but i know it is. Even if it wasnt, the starter fluid I gave it would make something happen.

Didn't I see something about the batteries having to be extra hot for these bikes?

 

[MaxMidnight]

Not sure if this has been asked/ answered elsewhere...

Has the flywheel been off or changed; if yes is the woodruff key in place (i.e. the flywheel is located in the correct position relative to the crank).

Also does it have the correct flywheel - the two and four pick-up flywheels have different part numbers so I would assume they are not interchangeable.

 

[Jhbox13]

Not sure if this has been asked/ answered elsewhere...

Has the flywheel been off or changed; if yes is the woodruff key in place (i.e. the flywheel is located in the correct position relative to the crank).

Also does it have the correct flywheel - the two and four pick-up flywheels have different part numbers so I would assume they are not interchangeable.

I don't think the engine ever got torn down that far

 

[sdt354]

I'd swap out the TCI at this point, even though it's sparking. Sean has a lender kit he generously lets us all borrow for diagnosis. +1 to the flywheel key inspection.

 

[Jhbox13]

I'd swap out the TCI at this point, even though it's sparking. Sean has a lender kit he generously lets us all borrow for diagnosis. +1 to the flywheel key inspection.

Do the #1 & #3 fire together ad vice versa with #2 & #4?

 

[Jhbox13]

Nevermind, its 1-4-2-3

 

[Jhbox13]

Anyone have the part number for the woodruff key

 

[D-Max2012]

Is this what you're looking for?

 

[one2dmax]

Unplug the sidestand relay (not switch) and see what it does

 

[Jhbox13]

@D-Max
Hopefully it doesn't come to taking the flywheel apart

@one2dmax
I'll give it a go, but if the relay was causing issues I would have no spark.

Still acting like its not getting fuel, I think I might have an idea. Those rubber plugs in the carbs, the ones for the jets (22V-14968-00-00 and 22U-14968-00-00), they are supposed to have holes all the way through yeah?

 

[Fire-medic]

The bigger of the two rubber plugs is also w/a hole. I stand corrected. (attach.)

 

[Jhbox13]

only the idle jet plug, the small one. The bigger of the two rubber plugs is solid.

I'll need to look at that then. I'm nearly certain that when I looked at the plugs that they were all solid, or at least looked that way. My idle ones may be occluded.

 

[Fire-medic]

I didn't read all the way thru before posting, though in the past I have read all the posts.

Be careful working with fuel issues. No draining fuel out where you have a gas-burning appliance like a gas hot water heater. Gasoline fumes can travel many feet to a pilot lamp flame and ignite. Have a charged water hose and a good sized (I recommend a minimum 5 lb) ABC rated fire extinguisher where you can reach it. It's better to do fuel issues troubleshooting outside a building.

Is your set of float bowls dry after you turn on the key and hear the fuel pump ticking, and then stop? That would seem to mean there is some major obstruction in the fuel line. If you aren't seeing a good amount of fuel come out of the drain tubes with the ignition switch off, before the bowl empties, then you may have an obstruction.

If you open a float bowl drain and turn on the ignition, you should get a continuous flow of fuel, until you turn off the ignition switch.

I just ultrasonically-cleaned a set of disassembled carbs yesterday, & the idle jets were plugged closed before going into the tank. They came out opened of deposits. The orifice in the idle jet is very small, essy to obstruct. A good filter is your friend.

 

[Jhbox13]

I didn't read all the way thru before posting, though in the past I have read all the posts.

Be careful working with fuel issues. No draining fuel out where you have a gas-burning appliance like a gas hot water heater. Gasoline fumes can travel many feet to a pilot lamp flame and ignite. Have a charged water hose and a good sized (I recommend a minimum 5 lb) ABC rated fire extinguisher where you can reach it. It's better to do fuel issues troubleshooting outside a building.

Is your set of float bowls dry after you turn on the key and hear the fuel pump ticking, and then stop? That would seem to mean there is some major obstruction in the fuel line. If you aren't seeing a good amount of fuel come out of the drain tubes with the ignition switch off, before the bowl empties, then you may have an obstruction.

If you open a float bowl drain and turn on the ignition, you should get a continuous flow of fuel, until you turn off the ignition switch.

I just ultrasonically-cleaned a set of disassembled carbs yesterday, & the idle jets were plugged closed before going into the tank. They came out opened of deposits. The orifice in the idle jet is very small, essy to obstruct. A good filter is your friend.

I've got a solid flow from all four carbs with the key on

 

[Jhbox13]

So I think I may know the issue. Two of my a/f mix screws were all the way in......and the other two...now have to now have to be extracted...anyone have a good tip for getting these things out?

 

[Jhbox13]

Any and all ideas welcome, I do not want to buy new carbs...

Saw someone asking in another thread about this and someone asked if they were the right side carbs. Mine are the right, does it make a difference?

 

[Fire-medic]

Take them to a machine shop & show them one removed to see the size & thread. I had one done recently.

 

[Jhbox13]

Take them to a machine shop & show them one removed to ser the size & thread. I had one done recently.

I'll look into it. I may try the freezer and torch method to get it to free up, bein carful of course to not set myself on fire or warp my carb

 

[Fire-medic]

It doesn't take much heat to turn your carb potmetal into useless slag! Give it to the machine shop, and let them do it.