grinding, clickity, kih-kih-kih-kih sounds on start

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...Once summer breaks it'll never happen once, and even in dead of winter cracking the gas ever so slightly seems to "fix" it, so whatever...

so ever since i posted this problem, i've been using RaWarrior's workaround (slightly cracking the throttle while starting) and i don't experience the grinding and missing and whirring and what-not. the bike just roars to life.

my question: why does this work? it would seem to me that if the starter can't kick the engine then how can an "off" engine even take advantage of the extra gas?
 
so ever since i posted this problem, i've been using RaWarrior's workaround (slightly cracking the throttle while starting) and i don't experience the grinding and missing and whirring and what-not. the bike just roars to life.

my question: why does this work? it would seem to me that if the starter can't kick the engine then how can an "off" engine even take advantage of the extra gas?

maybe the engine is providing more resistance to turn, causing the starter clutch to have to grab more or something?
 
gamorg02 is has probably hit the nail on the head, but the problem is still there with the starter clutch. Could be loose screws backing out, bad rollers and springs need replacing or worst scenerio clutch sprocket has flat spots in it . Its worth a tear down, because if it is screws working loose and one comes completely out, there is no telling where it may lodge or what damage it may do before it hits the bottom of the engine where it will finally comes to rest.

maybe the engine is providing more resistance to turn, causing the starter clutch to have to grab more or something?
 
yea, bolts are cheaper than a clutch plate. if i had the cash i probably woulda sprung for a new sprocket too, mine had some 'wavyness' although it hasn't missed yet since i re-did the bolts. never had any bad noises, just wouldn't grab.
 
In the old day when i used to work on Hondas and Yamahas, sometimes when the clutch sprocket had flat spots or grooves in them. I would take the sprocket to a lathe we had in the shop and cut a 2 0r 3 thousands off them. If the spots cleared up I would put it back together and give it a try, most of the time it was successful sometimes not, but i always used new rollers and springs. Now that was in the old days when these bikes did not need as much torque to turn the engine over and you could kick start them with your hand......the V-max is a totally different animal and all of the above could be a waste of time................Joe

yea, bolts are cheaper than a clutch plate. if i had the cash i probably woulda sprung for a new sprocket too, mine had some 'wavyness' although it hasn't missed yet since i re-did the bolts. never had any bad noises, just wouldn't grab.
 
not a bad idea, but not sure if that would limit the holding pressure of the springs?
 
i got the clutch replaced and new bolts on my '06vmx. now it wont run, it just turns and no start with random backfires. please any ideas.
 
i got the clutch replaced and new bolts on my '06vmx. now it wont run, it just turns and no start with random backfires. please any ideas.

Did you have the plug wires off? If so check to make sure they are on the right way (the front wires are actually crossed).

Are all your fuses intact?

Your pickup coil wire, when you were performing surgery on your ride did you tweak it?

Go for the basics before you start changing anything (compression, fuel, spark)
 
Tear in down Greg and get down and dirty with it......quit putting off the enevitable.........Joe

u bet joe! right now, i'm on a break after banging on the flywheel for a half-hour. it's effin hot in the garage. rained like the dickens last night and now it's humid as hell today...and it's only 11. :rofl_200:
 
yup. makes me shudder. i had a hell of a winter.

if i could do it all over again, i would *probably* skip the whole crow foot puller and go get the right size 3 jaw puller and use that. those jaws are a lot less likely to stretch that sub-par bolts. the haynes manual actually suggests using a '2-jaw puller' if you look at the pics in the manual

here is the right size one you'd want:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/...rhand-6-in-gear-puller-2-frasl-3-jaws-3835276

also a good 1 1/4" (i believe as it actually fits better than 32mm and those are hard to find) wrench to hold the flywheel. tractor supply has those too


ok. so i'm following gamorg02's advice. do i have the tool installed correctly, with the puller's bolt inside the flywheel/clutch assembly? and then tighten, whack, tighten, whack, tighten, whack, have a cup of coffee and a cigarette, tighten, whack, tighten, whack, curse Sean for making it look so easy, tighten, whack?
 

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Only heat up the center portion of the flywheel, right where the puller is inseterted, do not heat the whole thing or the magnets. If you heat the magnets you will loose magnetism.
 
Only heat up the center portion of the flywheel, right where the puller is inseterted, do not heat the whole thing or the magnets. If you heat the magnets you will loose magnetism.

so, and thanks in advance for being patient and not heckling, but where are the magnets? are they the green or yellow arrow? and i heat up the inside where the red arrow is pointing, and not the head where the blue arrow is pointing, right?
 

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some more stupid questions: should remove the puller before applying heat? and how hot do i heat it up to? and how much time do i have after applying heat in order to replace the puller if i have to take it off first?
 
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