grinding, clickity, kih-kih-kih-kih sounds on start

[ninjaneer]

You impact may be inadequate, put a tire tool in the puller and let it get up against something that will foul it. Then get your pull handle with with the right size socket on it and put some serious pressure on the puller bolt, use a cheater on the pull bar and then give it a good whack with the hammer. Repeat process, each time checking to see if you can tighten bolt even more.

you were right, my impact sucks. i was able to get some turns out of the puller bolt with a cheater bar. but that sumbitch's still on. :bang head: i guess i need a longer cheater.

 

[ninjaneer]

I give up

 

[CaptainKyle]

I give up

To bad your so far away you could bring it buy & I would be more than willing to give you a hand.

 

[ninjaneer]

To bad your so far away you could bring it buy & I would be more than willing to give you a hand.

thanks capn. a very nice gesture.

why is it "so easy" for everyone 'cept me? 12 hours later and i'm no further along than a terd in a snail's ***.

 

[CaptainKyle]

They can be a real pain sometimes. I guess you figured that out though.

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

The only other thing I would try would be to put the puller on, add some heat to the flywheel, then take a brass or soft metal drift and smack around the base of the flywheel where the tapered area meets the inside face. Drift will have to be long enough to pass by the flywheel puller, and still have enough room to hit the end of it with a hammer. Keep rotating the flywheel and hitting it in different locations....this might be enough to shock it off. Worth a try, I guess!

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

I should also add that the "drift" I'm talking about needs to be beefy.....like 3/4 to 1 inch diameter. That way it will transfer the energy of the hammer to the flywheel with damaging it.

 

[alorio1]

I guess if all these suggestions fail , head for a tool rental store and find one like Sean used in his video (very thick steel). You would have to have grade 8 bolts, I think is what he recommended to someone in a thread, and some heavy duty thick washers between the bolt head and the puller. With that type of puller you are putting forces closer to the stuck object. You can't argue with success and you saw the video, and if you looked closely at his puller he had the bolts pulled up tight to the flywheel.........Joe

 

[satariel666]

thanks capn. a very nice gesture.

why is it "so easy" for everyone 'cept me? 12 hours later and i'm no further along than a terd in a snail's ***.

Ninja, do you have any flame/plasma/waterjet service around?
I can draw a puller for you - you would only need to cut one part and get some very good bolts.

 

[ninjaneer]

The only other thing I would try would be to put the puller on, add some heat to the flywheel, then take a brass or soft metal drift and smack around the base of the flywheel where the tapered area meets the inside face. Drift will have to be long enough to pass by the flywheel puller, and still have enough room to hit the end of it with a hammer. Keep rotating the flywheel and hitting it in different locations....this might be enough to shock it off. Worth a try, I guess!

hmmm, i may try this :hmmm:

I guess if all these suggestions fail , head for a tool rental store and find one like Sean used in his video (very thick steel). You would have to have grade 8 bolts, I think is what he recommended to someone in a thread, and some heavy duty thick washers between the bolt head and the puller. With that type of puller you are putting forces closer to the stuck object. You can't argue with success and you saw the video, and if you looked closely at his puller he had the bolts pulled up tight to the flywheel.........Joe

you are correct, sean's results are undeniable. i did mull over this option last night, but fear meeting the same outcome as did gmorgan (bolts breaking off in the flywheel), especially if i can't get it off with the 3-jaw method that he eventually used. i mean the fw is on TIGHT--i almost wanna say that it is FUSED on and the service manual warns that in such cases the "external" jaw puller may be better than the crow foot. i'll toss the idea around some more. :confused2:

Ninja, do you have any flame/plasma/waterjet service around?
I can draw a puller for you - you would only need to cut one part and get some very good bolts.

yes, i quick google pulled up a couple businesses. but i don't know how much it'll be. **** i'm so pissed because with the amount of money that i have gone over budget with, i coulda gotten a kickass raditor cover:rofl_200::bang head:


didn't JEDI make a puller. i remember it looking like a circular plate and he was offering cutting out some. does anyone have one that they are willing to lend?

 

[CaptainKyle]

hmmm, i may try this :hmmm:



you are correct, sean's results are undeniable. i did mull over this option last night, but fear meeting the same outcome as did gmorgan (bolts breaking off in the flywheel), especially if i can't get it off with the 3-jaw method that he eventually used. i mean the fw is on TIGHT--i almost wanna say that it is FUSED on and the service manual warns that in such cases the "external" jaw puller may be better than the crow foot. i'll toss the idea around some more. :confused2:



yes, i quick google pulled up a couple businesses. but i don't know how much it'll be. **** i'm so pissed because with the amount of money that i have gone over budget with, i coulda gotten a kickass raditor cover:rofl_200::bang head:


didn't JEDI make a puller. i remember it looking like a circular plate and he was offering cutting out some. does anyone have one that they are willing to lend?

I could mail you mine & you could mail it back.

 

[alorio1]

Miles Long had an intresting theory in Gamo's fly wheel ordeal, and I always thought you would heat the bore all the way around


(MILES LONG'S THEORY) we had a standard procedure in these situations, if tightening and hammering on the centre bolt did not pop the gear (or bearing, sleeve, etc) off the shaft - we would use a oxy-acetelene torch to heat the bore. Usually, no hammer blows were required. With the centre bolt as tight as possible, the item would pop off on it's own, once the proper temp. was reached.
We found it more effective to heat only one section of the bore, (along it's complete length, if possible), instead of trying to heat around the entire circumfrence. The theory was to make the bore go "oblong", while at the same time preventing the heat from reaching (and expanding)the shaft.

 

[ninjaneer]

I could mail you mine & you could mail it back.

which one would you be sending me? i was thinking of going out after work and getting a craftsman harmonic balancer puller that sean shows off in his vid. and if the cost of shipping yours is anywhere near the price of the craftsman puller...well like i said, i'm already over budget.

...
We found it more effective to heat only one section of the bore, (along it's complete length, if possible), instead of trying to heat around the entire circumfrence. The theory was to make the bore go "oblong", while at the same time preventing the heat from reaching (and expanding)the shaft.

hmmm, nice catch. i missed that. i'll keep it in mind.

 

[CaptainKyle]

which one would you be sending me? i was thinking of going out after work and getting a craftsman harmonic balancer puller that sean shows off in his vid. and if the cost of shipping yours is anywhere near the price of the craftsman puller...well like i said, i'm already over budget.




hmmm, nice catch. i missed that. i'll keep it in mind.

I use an OTC Stinger Harmoninc balancer puller its basically a big round hunk of steel with slots cut in it 1/4 thick on out side edges & half inch thick on the center. No ears to bend or break. It will fit in a small priority mail box so it would cost $ 5.20 shipping eacy way.

 

[ninjaneer]

Let's do it! I'll PM you. Will you include bolts, or will I have to provide them myself?

regards from my tapatalking android...

 

[CaptainKyle]

Let's do it! I'll PM you. Will you include bolts, or will I have to provide them myself?

regards from my tapatalking android...

I will send you the bolts and washers with it. All I ask is try & get it back in a timely manner. Are you any where around Deltona ? I been throwing around the idea of driving out there & picking up an exaust system.

 

[ninjaneer]

I will send you the bolts and washers with it. All I ask is try & get it back in a timely manner. Are you any where around Deltona ? I been throwing around the idea of driving out there & picking up an exaust system.

I'm about an hour and a half from deltona

 

[gamorg02]

**** man sorry i haven't seen this sooner, had my wedding reception this weekend. look slike you're doing the same stuff i was it eventually just popped for me. never used an impact just a 18" breaker bar and a lot of pushing.

my 1-1/4" big wrench held it very well too i had it wedged in a frame brace.

another thing that may have helped me was the bike as a whole was probably only 20 deg F since itwas winter so when heating the flywheel the temp difference may have been much more. i didn't get a chance to use miles suggestion and just did the same heat all the way around, and used a 2 lb sledge hitting a small piece of 2x4 into the center bolt.

it looks like your jaws are on the flywheel only right? not on the sprocket...

 

[ninjaneer]

another thing that may have helped me was the bike as a whole was probably only 20 deg F since itwas winter so when heating the flywheel the temp difference may have been much more. i didn't get a chance to use miles suggestion and just did the same heat all the way around, and used a 2 lb sledge hitting a small piece of 2x4 into the center bolt.

what did you use to heat it up with?

it looks like your jaws are on the flywheel only right? not on the sprocket...

yes only the flywheel

 

[ninjaneer]

...Removing the flywheel is the toughest part. It wasn't bad on my bike(maybe 5 min of tightening/smacking) but other people have spent days trying to pull it so who knows.

Hate you, Ra (just kidding:rofl_200