Upper halo, 80mm Lower halo 70mm. Like some have said, there are 2 different places you can get the halos....USA and China. When I was looking, no USA halos were available. So, I got the China ones. The driver was included and if you wire them properly, will have the whites as runners and the ambers as turn. Since I was not too worried about salvaging the the bird wing turn signals that were originally on the front, I cut the harness as far up as I could. That way, I can build my harness for a plug and play set up.
Now someone stated that they dont like load resistors. I agree with that sentiment as well. However, my electronic relay that I was using for the rear integrated turn/brake light did not like having all LEDs in all corners. The fronts would blink normally, but the rear was playing hell with the turn signal and brake lights. Now....it is very well possible that the electronic flasher I had was simply not up to the task. Another brand may have very well worked. So....since my electronic flasher did not work does not mean all will not work. Regardless, I had 3 load resistors already. I did a quick test on rears and one front, solved all my problems. So, I bought another box, did the last front and have what I have.
How I mounted mine....Well....thats a bit of a tough one.....The 70mm halo is a drop in perfect fit. No monkeying around with that one other than the small hole to pass the wiring through. The upper scoop hole is actually 78mm. The 80mm will not fit right in. When I did my research, I found that someone had spacers made to adapt the sizes. Since I have no faith in any postal system to send stuff in a reasonable time, I opted to make my own. Now I dont own a machine shop or lathe. I do have dremels, sandpaper, files and patience though. I have this kind of "super epoxy". 3M 04747. Working time of about 30 seconds, sets up under 5 minutes, full cure in about an hour. I made a mold that gave me my diameter of 78mm. Once it was cured, I cut, shaped, smoothed, and painted(Cause it cures offwhite). I then simply epoxied everything to the scoops. My upper halos, I pitched slightly upward for a bit more forward light when dark.
Mounting the drivers and resistors was easy. Inside their respective scoop near the top leading edge is where they cleared everything for me. Wiring was fed through the frame holes on each side and plugged in to each of their own slots. Wiring was soldered and heat shrinked with sealant in the heat shrink. When mocking the halos up, I did not like the glare look that was coming off the screens. So I removed the screens from the scoops but kept the louvre plastic that everything is mounted to.
As for how reliable this set up will be....anyones guess. However, yesterday, I was out on the Gen 2 for a ride, last leg of my ride, I was caught in a supercell. To say torrential is an understatement. Ended up hailing(twice the size of a pea) that forced me to stop as getting pelted with hail that big hurts. Through that driving rain, hail, cold and previously heat of the day, they are still holding up. No loose components, no adverse operation, no breaks, chips or damage. The bike was up and running yesterday prior to that incident for 530 miles(approximately 8 hours-numerous fuel stops).
In the end....I think what I did was a good torture test. Long hours in the heat. Sudden cold, excessive water....cant call it moisture at this point....and ice. Will my results be yours....no. Will your results be mine....no. Patience is key. I am sure a bought and paid for plug and play unit would have been installed in a fraction of the time I spent. But depending on what I am doing, I will invest my time. For my particular install, about 3 hours including finishing the upper halo mounts and figuring out the flasher business. I may end up trying different electronic flashers in the future to get rid of the resistors. But am unsure at this point. I am of the mindset, if it works, leave it alone.