Holly crap 200 HP at rear wheel one of two..lol love craigslist

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1200 (74 cu. in.) Shovelheads were hard-pressed to break much-past 30-35 RWHP in stock condition, circa 1971. It wasn't until 1980 when they went to 80 cu. in. (1340 cc) that they were turning in the 40+ RWHP area. It took until the Evolution era before they could break 50 RWHP stock.


I already made the guy an offer to swap cams, I offered him $100/exchange and asked him, "how-many cams do I get for my $100?" The swap is going to be done at the Yamaha dealer closest to his home. I figure the dealer parts & labor bill should be about $125.:biglaugh: So, for $225, I will be sportin' a "200 HP engine," and I will be taking-on all-comers!:rofl_200:
 
WOW! I gotta get me a set of those cams! I'll bet noone here thought you could get like 80hp out of a set of cams. Unless he left off "When using NO2", I think he speaks bull strit.
 
How much do cams cost and how much do they really gain in Hp? Also does the motor suffer dependability issues? I'm gonna have to ask KJ and Sean about the possibilitys.
 
Not that much and $700ish. Won't clear stock pistons with cams big enough to make a difference.
 
"bigger" cams move the power band up the RPM range. Because horsepower is computed as the square of the RPM, more revs make more HP. Of course you loose power at low RPMs. If you ever rode a 2 stroke MX bike, you have felt something simular as the MX bikes come "up on the pipe"

In car engines, we tend to gain a lot with bigger cams because the "normal" car engine is tuned to work smoothly at low RPMs I gained 20% HP on many V8 street motors by switching to a big cam. However we tend to forget that Motorcycle engines are already very highly tuned. Think of this, If your V8 mustang were as highly tuned as your V-Max, the Mustang would have 460hp at the rear wheels WITHOUT a super charger.

Because the V-max is already "highly tuned" you gains on any changes will be small. Now I don't think anyone is going to build a 1200 cc v-Max that revs to 13,000 for the street, so a cam swap with a few other changes like valve springs, and notching the pistons, could build a 10,000 rpm V-Max with about a 6-7% boos in HP , That's maybe 7hp or so, and you would loose a good deal of punch below 3500. The "fun" of a V-Max is it's torque. So, IMHO, you are making you Max less fun to drive on the street. Better to punch out the bore and maybe increase the stroke for more displacement and more power where is fun to use it. That said, I'm the type that If I were going to the expense to pull the heads on a V-Max I would be going to 1500, Cams, valves, springs, porting, multi angle valve job, CC the heads, deck the blocks, and of course to take advange of all that doing a header system and bigger carbs, In effect building a dragbike engine and still driving it on the street.

Of course I you spent all that money, you could ust about trade your bike for a gen-2 and have the same kind of power with a warranty. Or ust buy a ZX14 and keep you old Max.
 
Could the stock Gen1 drivetrain/suspension evan handlle 200 RWHP?

I'm pretty sure that's why most high horsepower Vmax's convert to chain drive. I've done damage just because of my 250 rear. I broke shafts & ujoints more than once. I even stripped the teeth outta the ujoints yoke from the middle gear. (Which Sean said usually doesn't even happen with high Hp bikes.) but I'd ask Sean (one2dmax) if I were you to be sure. He'd know better than anyone.
 
Could the stock Gen1 drivetrain/suspension evan handlle 200 RWHP?

It can, but it depends on how smooth the application is. My 80 shot has always been used with a controller. This way the power delivery is more smooth and a lot less stressful on the trans and drivetrain (cept I'm now on drive shaft #3). Otherwise 80+ shot would eat a transmission pretty quick in it's stock form. So far I have many many hits on my engine and it's going on season number 6, but 80 is about the tops I would go with a stock engine. Without a controller, 60ish would be it with just using a happy button.

With a chain you'll have more efficient power delivery to the ground. Say a shaft bike would put 120 to the ground, a chain would be closer if not over 130. Not to mention the big plus of gearing.

I have a 2000 engine under a tarp at a friend's shop. Future plans for it will be to throw more squeeze at it or get off my ass and do something with the turbos. So it will be torn down, Falicon super crank, arais pistons, same stg II cams that I have now, (I like the mid-range from them, can't tell at all if I lost anything in the bottom end), Chained, complete headwork and pipes, and a transmission work (undercut, cryo'd). But I'm not going to worry about it until my current engine leaves this mortal coil.

It's going to be my graduation present to myself :)




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Sean's price sheet shows a stroker & big bore built engine is $8700 before the core allowance. That's more than my entire bike is worth.
http://www.morleysmuscle.com/muscle-bikes/vmax/engine/engine_builds

Plus, there are many other variables, depending on what you want. Building a reliable, good performing engine is definitely an art, and throwing $$$ at a project isn't enough if you're doing it for the first time. People like Sean and others who build reliable big-block Vmaxes and other bikes have tens of thousands of dollars, probably even-more, in damaged parts to-show for their hard-won efforts. You can build a great engine, but if the idiot owner runs it low on oil, coolant, or insists on running the engine beyond its maximum rev-range then your best efforts can be reduced to expensive slag very quickly.

Will it be faster than stock? Yes, if you know how to ride. Will it require more maintenance? Probably. Is there more potential for things to go-wrong? That depends on so-many variables, besides stressing an engine above its original design, you need to ask questions of the builder so you understand what you are going to be facing when you commit to a hot-rod.

Bolt-ons like carbs and a pipe are capable of ruining an engine if not done correctly, or at-least in-making it much worse for street use, compared to a stocker. That multiplies exponentially when you go to a stroker/big-bore engine. For most of us, the mild hop-up is probably a safer route. For the deep-pocketed & adventurous, we all want to read about your successes, and also your failures. We all learn and have vicarious thrills from hearing about your successes, and thank our 'lucky-stars' we didn't own the engine that spins a big-end bearing or throws a rod through the case. "Broken-in half cams," well, with the barest bit of luck, maybe you can come-out ahead on that one, and still attend Daytona Bike Week.

The best way to go is to buy a complete assembly from a vendor you trust, someone who has put product into the drag racing scene, or who has built reliable street engines on the highways. A "set of cams" isn't going to do it!
 

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I know of two GEN1's to date well over 200rwhp. Just last year this one guy had a 1570 long rod with chain drive and flatslide setup that pulled 217rwhp at thunder. Blew all the GEN2's out of the water! Another guy has a turbo that produces well over those numbers, but I havent seen that bike in years to know what its pulling these days. All I know is that turbo was pulling very high numbers that were insane!
 
Does anyone recognize this bike? Has a 1570 pcw motor with chain drive conversion that is supposed to be pushing 200 rwhp.
 

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sidewinder mirrors and skull grips...sidewinder mirrors and skull grips...sidewinder mirrors and skull grips...

I gotta remeber this cuz im shootin for 200 plus!!
 
I know of two GEN1's to date well over 200rwhp. Just last year this one guy had a 1570 long rod with chain drive and flatslide setup that pulled 217rwhp at thunder. Blew all the GEN2's out of the water! Another guy has a turbo that produces well over those numbers, but I havent seen that bike in years to know what its pulling these days. All I know is that turbo was pulling very high numbers that were insane!

I can't remember the exact numbers, but Paul C's old turbo bike made stupid power, it was good for 8's and still streetable.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh7rI3M7W38
 
This is jons bike the guy who I bought my rims off of.. he's over 210hp I believe I don't know how much NOS he squirts buy he's beaten a could zx14's he told me the other day that one time he was over 180mph racing some dude... he's got tons of work done. Something done to the head bearing and triple tree too he said it takes high speeds amazing..

http://vmaxforum.net/album.php?albumid=366&pictureid=2792
 
I have a question. Since I've never had or really been around Nitros. When the stated RWHP is for example 200 hp. does that in any way include the nitros to get that number. Do they spray on the dyno ?
 
I have a question. Since I've never had or really been around Nitros. When the stated RWHP is for example 200 hp. does that in any way include the nitros to get that number. Do they spray on the dyno ?

Yes sir sprayed at dyno usually.
 
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