How To: V-Boost Intake Manifold Assembly Remove/Install

[ninjaneer]

As part of my crankcase breather housing job, I had to remove the carburetors and V-Boost intake manifold assembly (VIMA). I found what I needed as far as removing the carb rack on the forum, but as far as I could tell, the forum lacked a How-To for removing the VIMA. So here goes:

First things first, a parts list:

• 1 Service Manual
• 4 quarts or 3.8 L of your preferred engine oil (optional)
• 3 quarts or 3 L of your preferred coolant (optional)
• 2 Oil Drain Plug washer, 214-11198-01-00 (as required, optional)
• Thread sealant, ACC-1100-15-01 (I used good 'ol Yamabond 4)
• 4 Intake Manifold O-RINGs, 93210-45578-00 (as required, optional)

I felt that the following steps were trivial enough that explicit steps weren't warranted. However, reference your service manual if in doubt.

1. Drain the oil and coolant (optional, read entire write up and follow-up comments before making the decision)
2. Pop the lid
3. Remove both side scoops
4. Remove airbox
5. Remove the carb rack
6. Stuff some clean shop rags in each of the ports to prevent gremlins from entering the engine.

Now that all the crap that was stacked up on top of the VIMA has been displaced, remove it using the following steps and figure {EDIT: The pic has been corrected with the correct arrow colors}

1) To simplify the removal of one of the mounting bolts, disconnect the crankcase breather housing's coolant feed (white arrow) from the bike's coolant fill block and push it into the engine compartment, noting how it was orignally routed.

2) Back out the V-Boost Control Cable (VCC) Connector Block retention screw, shown pointed at by the green arrow.
3) Take note of how the head of the VCC's locking screw inside the Connector Block (outlined by dashed green box) is visible from the right side of the bike. THE CONNECTOR BLOCK MUST BE REINSTALLED IN THE SAME MANNER
4) Lift the spring-loaded V-Boost valve control pulley (yellow arrow) and push the VCC's stay nub out of its seat. The following pic shows more detail—the orange arrow shows the VCC and the blue arrow shows the seated VCC stay nub.

5) Back out the 8 Intake Manifold mounting bolts (pointed at by the red and cyan arrows in the big pic above).

• Take note that the “red” bolts are shorter than the “cyan” bolts as shown in the following pic

​

• The “red” bolts go into holes that are drilled through into the cylinder heads, so be wary that oil might drain from these holes.
• The old thread sealant on the end of the “red” bolts (indicated by red dashed box) should be removed and replaced with fresh sealant just prior to screwing them in during reassembly.
• When reassembling, tighten the bolts alternating between ports while applying downward pressure on the entire VIMA. Torque the bolts to 10 N-m (89 in-lbs).

6) Pop the VIMA off of the cylinder heads.
7) Stuff some clean shop rags in each of the cylinder ports to prevent gremlins from entering the engine.

8) Inspect the o-rings on the bottom of each intake port and replace as necessary.


Installation is the reverse of removal.
{EDIT} Once on, take the opportunity to adjust the vboost cable

 

[[email protected]]

Nice write up!
I did this not too long ago. I didn't bother to drain the oil, very little dribbled out of the manifold bolt holes that take the short screws. I didn't remove that coolant hose either, I had enough slack in it to push it out of my way.

 

[dannymax]

Nice tutorial ninj!!

Two bolts shown are the 2 different lengths (as Mike noted) one ecah of the short stainless one on the left goes into the outside holes on #2 & #3 cylinders....or the left front bolt hole and the right rear bolt hole.

They come from the factory with a dob of silicone on the end which somehow prevents oil from leaking by.

 

[ninjaneer]

Nice write up!
I did this not too long ago. I didn't bother to drain the oil, very little dribbled out of the manifold bolt holes that take the short screws. I didn't remove that coolant hose either, I had enough slack in it to push it out of my way.

thanks for the info, i'll edit the post. for my bigger job (overhauling the crankcase breather housing, i drained the oil and coolant). i wasn't sure if the reason i didn't see any oil was because i had drained it or because the oil didn't rise up that high (which may have been the reason based on your comment).

 

[ninjaneer]

Nice tutorial ninj!!
They come from the factory with a dob of silicone on the end which somehow prevents oil from leaking by.

Interesting. Not saying your wrong or whatnot--my Clymers said to put some thread sealant and so I did.

 

[SpecOps13]

Wow.... Impressive ninjaneer......:clapping:

 

[Elimax]

Hi folks:

Sorry a late post on this, but I'm still not really clear as to the placement of the 2 shorter bolts.

Ninjaneer had noted the placement of these 2 shorter bolts in his diagram/directions, then Dannymax differed (I think?) with what believe were correct(?) directions, but I'm not understanding what Dannymax meant by saying they go "into the outside holes on #2 & #3 cylinders."

Per the diagram that Ninjaneer so helpfully provided, what are you calling the #2 and #3 cylinders? (Does that mean, when sitting on the bike, the left/front cylinder and the right/rear cylinder?)

Thnks very much for your help!

Elimax

 

[[email protected]]

Hi folks:

Sorry a late post on this, but I'm still not really clear as to the placement of the 2 shorter bolts.

Ninjaneer had noted the placement of these 2 shorter bolts in his diagram/directions, then Dannymax differed (I think?) with what believe were correct(?) directions, but I'm not understanding what Dannymax meant by saying they go "into the outside holes on #2 & #3 cylinders."

Per the diagram that Ninjaneer so helpfully provided, what are you calling the #2 and #3 cylinders? (Does that mean, when sitting on the bike, the left/front cylinder and the right/rear cylinder?)

Thnks very much for your help!

Elimax

Check out this pic. Short bolts go on the top left manifold hole, and the bottom right.


Looking at the photo, this is how the cyls are numbered

TOP LEFT=2 TOP RIGHT=4
BOTTOM LEFT=1 BOTTOM RIGHT=3

 

[ninjaneer]

i am so very sorry everyone for adding to the confusion. i updated the pic.

mabdcmb, please could you edit out the pic in your last post, so as it doesn't confuse future readers. the words are good so and you can reference the updated pic if you want.

thanks

 

[dannymax]

Hi folks:

Sorry a late post on this, but I'm still not really clear as to the placement of the 2 shorter bolts.

Ninjaneer had noted the placement of these 2 shorter bolts in his diagram/directions, then Dannymax differed (I think?) with what believe were correct(?) directions, but I'm not understanding what Dannymax meant by saying they go "into the outside holes on #2 & #3 cylinders."

Per the diagram that Ninjaneer so helpfully provided, what are you calling the #2 and #3 cylinders? (Does that mean, when sitting on the bike, the left/front cylinder and the right/rear cylinder?)

Thnks very much for your help!

Elimax

That is correct Elimax.

Also, for reference, the left front carb (sitting on the bike) is what is referred to as the "Master Carb"....it has no sync adjusting screw, the other carbs, #1, #3 & #4 are sync'd to #2. It also has no cap over the vacuum or sync spigot....instead, there is a tube going to the vacuum sensor.

JIC I haven't confused this issue enough yet! :biglaugh:

 

[kcoop99]

Check out this pic. Short bolts go on the top left manifold hole, and the bottom right.


Looking at the photo, this is how the cyls are numbered

TOP LEFT=2 TOP RIGHT=4
BOTTOM LEFT=1 BOTTOM RIGHT=3

Can someone tell me why the top left (2) will not tighten? Bolts are not stripped and when I install the bolts, I can still get a slight wiggle out of the entire assembly at that point. :ummm:

 

[davesax36]

The top left and lower right bolts are slightly shorter. They go into the block in a non-pressurized oil galley. If you swapped any of the bolts, the longer ones will bump into the head bolts before they bottom out. Those two should also have some sealer on them when they go in. That keeps that oil from coming out.

 

[sdt354]

Gret job Ninjneer, thanks.
Steve

 

[adambweird]

Thanks for the write up, pulled mine after work tonight... now to get some damn o rings, lol.

 

[kcoop99]

So I have put the two shorter bolts where they belong and they will not tighten. I out sealer on them, turn and turn and turn and they don't tighten. What's my problem??? Thanks!

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[one2dmax]

holes are stripped. you'll need to helicoil the holes back to size

 

[kcoop99]

Thanks! Can you give me the size kit I'll need?

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[one2dmax]

6mm x 1.0 thread pitch

 

[kcoop99]

Thanks Sean. While looking for them I seem to only find M6x1.25 or 1.5....

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[Traumahawk]

Here is a link that might help out. I bought these several months ago to repair a stripped bolt hole on the clutch cover.

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546...=1387159562&sr=8-1&keywords=helicoil+m6+X+1.0