Is it a clutch issue or tranny issue?

[kozy]

ugh! man more and more talk of dealers ******* **** up.

do urself a favor tho and go with a K&N filter, its got a nut on the front to torque it down to spec and easily remove it w/out strap wrenches n ****. i think they're like $10 thru bikebandit.

I've already gotten the tool for a ratchet to remove the filter. And I just bought a Fram Toughguard from AdvanceAuto for the bike. It was on a list of filters that work for the Vmax. I found it somewhere on here. What benefits does a K&N oil filter provide that a typical automotive one doesn't?

 

[gamorg02]

I've already gotten the tool for a ratchet to remove the filter. And I just bought a Fram Toughguard from AdvanceAuto for the bike. It was on a list of filters that work for the Vmax. I found it somewhere on here. What benefits does a K&N oil filter provide that a typical automotive one doesn't?

i'll let others answer, but that nut i guess. didn't have to buy a rachet adapter that way either i guess... K&N is a well known brand, i don't know if there is any difference for auto vs motorcycle oil filters tho..

 

[maleko89]

Oil filter only needs to bed hand tightened. If you have to put a screwdriver through the filter for torque or need any tool whatsoever then it's too tight. IMHO.

 

[gamorg02]

Oil filter only needs to bed hand tightened. If you have to put a screwdriver through the filter for torque or need any tool whatsoever then it's too tight. IMHO.

i follow, i meant more to take the filter off i've usually needed a strap wrench...
plus i like to do things to specs, having the torque on the filter of a K&N makes me feel better (i think its around 7 ft lbs)

 

[kozy]

Yeah, I know it's supposed to be hand-tightened. It took a ratchet-attachment and a few good slugs with a hammer and screwdriver to get it loose. Next time around won't be NEARLY as bad.

 

[kozy]

UPDATE:
After having changed the oil and filter, I rode it to work for the first time today. Clutch still slipping. Almost seems harder to shift now too.
Clutch replacement is next. Do I need to replace ALL of the friction disks? Anyone know of a good source for them?

EDIT: nevermind....I'm gonna call Mondak and order the parts through them. Forgot about the 20% discount.

 

[gleno]

UPDATE:
After having changed the oil and filter, I rode it to work for the first time today. Clutch still slipping. Almost seems harder to shift now too.
Clutch replacement is next. Do I need to replace ALL of the friction disks? Anyone know of a good source for them?

EDIT: nevermind....I'm gonna call Mondak and order the parts through them. Forgot about the 20% discount.

Ekozy, 2 weeks ago, I'm pretty sure I pegged a solution to your problem with a reasonably detailed explanation of how and why this fault exists in your bike. (see my post on page 4 of this thread).

Service the slave cylinder.

Why don't you give it a try. :bang head:

 

[kozy]

Hey gleno, I have to apologize. I didn't remember see the line "Bleeding the old fluid through after the corrosion and seal damage has started won't fix the problem."
The only part that stuck in my head was:

"1) Is the fluid level correct. If not correct.
2) Bleed the lines to eliminate the possibility that you have air in the brake lines. I doubt that this will cause slipping but it will cause hard gear changes.
3) If you do have air in the lines how did it get in there? Check brake line fittings for correct tightness and for signs of leaks or cracks. Air can enter the lines via the master cylinder when fluid levels are to low"

I'm going to get a new slave cylinder ordered, along with the proper gaskets and whatnot. I can't wait to get it changed.

 

[gleno]

Hey gleno, I have to apologize. I didn't remember see the line "Bleeding the old fluid through after the corrosion and seal damage has started won't fix the problem."
The only part that stuck in my head was:

"1) Is the fluid level correct. If not correct.
2) Bleed the lines to eliminate the possibility that you have air in the brake lines. I doubt that this will cause slipping but it will cause hard gear changes.
3) If you do have air in the lines how did it get in there? Check brake line fittings for correct tightness and for signs of leaks or cracks. Air can enter the lines via the master cylinder when fluid levels are to low"

I'm going to get a new slave cylinder ordered, along with the proper gaskets and whatnot. I can't wait to get it changed.

unk: No need to apologize. I just want to help.

I get frustrated with clutch threads because people of have an inclination to assume that 'slipping clutch = worn plates' and that just isn't the case most of the time particularly with you guys who have to winter your bikes for half the year.

Over time, the rubber seals , gaskets and O-rings will almost always perish and fail under those conditions.

I've had a lot of high mileage bikes and I have never had to replace the friction plates in a wet clutch but I've lost count of the number of slave and master cylinders I've re-conditioned.

My V-max has 70,000kms on it now. The clutch started to slip at around 54,000kms. I bought a master cylinder kit and a slave kit and a set of pressure plates to do the fix.

When I pulled the clutch lines and cylinders apart the rot was in the slave cylinder piston and seals and the hydraulic chamber was full of rust, rubber scum, moisture and what looked like a bacterial growth!!!!! - even after bleeding the lines.

The wear was in the bucket and seals in the master. The chamber walls and piston polished up with a fine white polish I use on billet to keep the shine i.e. no pitting in the metal parts.

THE clutch plates were fine.

Good luck with the swap and if you do the slave cylinder be careful not to lose the little ball bearing on the end of the push rod that goes from the slave piston into the engine cases (see manual) or just don't pull it out of the crankcase. The ball bearing will sometimes drop out unnoticed. unk:

 

[kozy]

Good luck with the swap and if you do the slave cylinder be careful not to lose the little ball bearing on the end of the push rod that goes from the slave piston into the engine cases (see manual) or just don't pull it out of the crankcase. The ball bearing will sometimes drop out unnoticed. unk:

Thanks! I'll post back here in the next few weeks once I get the thing changed.

 

[kozy]

Bringing this back to life....unfortunately.

I changed over the slave cylinder yesterday. Let me tell ya, those little allen bolts holding it in there were a ****** to break loose. I didn't even have an allen long enough to get to the top one with enough leverage to break it loose....had my buddy bring some tools over. I got it changed out, bled the lines and did the brake lines while I was at it.

......and it still slips when I'm running highway speeds and hammer the throttle. I think I've exhausted every possible culprit except for the clutch plates. That might be coming up very soon.

 

[gamorg02]

****** man. at least u know its not the slave cylinder!

 

[gleno]

Bringing this back to life....unfortunately.

I changed over the slave cylinder yesterday. Let me tell ya, those little allen bolts holding it in there were a ****** to break loose. I didn't even have an allen long enough to get to the top one with enough leverage to break it loose....had my buddy bring some tools over. I got it changed out, bled the lines and did the brake lines while I was at it.

......and it still slips when I'm running highway speeds and hammer the throttle. I think I've exhausted every possible culprit except for the clutch plates. That might be coming up very soon.

Yep. Looks like you now have a justifiable reason to replace the clutch plates. The upside is that you have a clean unit to put them into and all parts of the system will then be 'as new' and wearing at the same rate.

I'm curious to know what condition of the internals in the old slave unit were like.:ummm:

 

[4gasem]

I know some guys that when they change the friction plates will take the metal plates and bead blast stripes on them. Don't bead blast it solid but more like a tiger print. To much and they won't slip at all... lol It's a good way to get more grip from used plates.

Chris

 

[kozy]

I'm curious to know what condition of the internals in the old slave unit were like.:ummm:

I was in such a hurry when I was replacing the slave that I never thought to tear it apart and check. I might have to go garbage picking tonight and see what the guts look like.

It is really weird when I'm riding. I felt this happen once, and the bike just doesn't seem to be right. I was in 2nd gear, right around 4K rpms, and hammered the throttle. The bike started to pull, the I felt something slip, almost like the clutch let loose, then it grabbed real hard and the bike ******. I'm hoping that was just the clutch plates slipping....yikes! I need to get this damn bike fixed!

 

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Test for clutch slip in a higher gear. Clutch slip should be most noticeable in 5th gear when hammering the throttle.

 

[4gasem]

I'm sure it is... When one of my bikes clutch went out it was in high gear that I would feel it. New friction disks helped it. I think I put Barnett springs in it at the same time for more clamping force.

Chris

 

[kozy]

Test for clutch slip in a higher gear. Clutch slip should be most noticeable in 5th gear when hammering the throttle.

Already did that.....before and after the new slave, it still slips when I'm on the highway.

 

[kozy]

So to do this, I need to buy the following:

1) 8 new friction disks
2) 7 clutch plates
3) Clutch spring
4) gasket for the clutch cover

Do I really need to put Loctite on clutch spring retainer fasteners? I think I have some red loctite laying around, but no blue. Add that to the list.

 

[maleko89]

I would use the Blue loctite/thread locker. It's cheap at Advance Auto.