Morley's Muscle Kit and Nitrous Install

[hubeerjw]

Well, this is going to be a multi-post thread, but I wanted to keep anyone interested, updated with my progress. I am in the middle of (actually I'm just getting started on) getting Sean Morley's Muscle Carb Kit installed as well as getting a little laughing gas put in. I purchased a Nitrous Express nitrous kit (60005P) with shots ranging from 40 to 100 horses. I have a 2.5lb bottle that I was going to try and hide, but I think that is going to complicate things so I've decided to just "let it all hang out". I'll try to share my learning experiences and if anyone has any questions, please let me know, and I'll do my best to answer them. I'm sure I'll be asking plenty of questions along the way as well.

I have the Nitrous/Fuel solenoids temporarily mounted on the studs that hold the gage assembly. I have found a nice spot for the additional fuel pump between the carbs and the coolant overflow tank. I have been told to "soft mount" this as the pump is prone to failure under heavy vibration. I will try to dampen it as much as possible. I have also read to put the fuel pump as low as possible to keep the fuel from draining back into the tank. I currently have it mounted above the tank, so I will be sure to keep an eye on this. I am also getting a fuel pressure safety switch installed, so if I lose fuel pressure, it will not keep adding nitrous and keep it from leaning out and eventually blowing the motor. I took off the carbs and manifolds tonight - pretty easy actually. (Much easier than my old Honda VF750) After removing the intake manifolds, I noticed a little oil coming out of the front/left-most and the rear/right-most allen bolt holes in the head (I tried to show this in one of the pictures) I also saw a very small amount of silicone on the threads, and really thought that the previous owner had stripped, and re-drilled these two holes. I called Mr. Morley, and he quickly reassured me they are tapped into the oil system and this was normal. I will try to do a step-by-step when I get around to putting in Morely's kit and will post pictures when I do. Other things I have done or am doing also includes, Galfer front brake lines, new mirrors w/ integrated turn signals (a little cheap looking, but they were cheap so..), a rear taillight w/ integrated turn signals, custom license plate bracket, and reverse shift pattern mod.

If I post something incorrectly, please feel free to let me know. I am new to nitrous, and am looking for any feedback.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[one2dmax]

Well, The solenoids will need to be moved. My kit still uses the basic box layout and clearances. You would install them into the inside of the actual box. Anywhere inbetween the stacks would work just fine. Of course there are plenty of other areas to mount them too.

One thing I forgot to mention that would be a benefit would be a "Progessive" controller. It allows you to dial in how much No2 upon hitting the switch and how fast to get to full power. These work very well to keep from blowing off the rear tire and also help relieve stresses to engine components. You can even run a larger shot without as many issues. You usually want to get an extra No2 solenoid along with the controller. This gives a backup in case the solenoid fails that is being "progressed". The way it works is by "pulsing" it rapidly and keeping the pulse open longer each time until full open is achieved.

Sean Morley

 

[Hulign]

Hey Jeff,

You have just become one of my new best friends. Please do keep posting updates! This is something I would really like to do myself. I'm interested in cost as well. I don't have the issue of the stock airbox due to running a stage 7 setup. Not sure if that will be better or worse. Nice thing about running stuff in the airbox.. it might be a bit more stealth. Not that anything else on my bike is..lol

Thanks

Frank

 

[hubeerjw]

Well things have been a little slow, but I did get my new taillight installed (I posted pics in the "Winter Mods" thread. I did purchase a Fuel Pressure Safety Switch from the Nitrous Express and found out it is a simple 4psi Hobbs pressure switch (Hobbs part number 76575) and can be purchased much cheaper on the internet than from nitrous distributors. I think the cheapest I found was around $12 instead of $40 dollars. This is a normally open switch and closes as soon as it reaches a pressure of 4psi and above. I just thought I would share some info to try and save others some $$
Jeff

 

[hubeerjw]

Hey Jeff,

You have just become one of my new best friends. Please do keep posting updates! This is something I would really like to do myself. I'm interested in cost as well. I don't have the issue of the stock airbox due to running a stage 7 setup. Not sure if that will be better or worse. Nice thing about running stuff in the airbox.. it might be a bit more stealth. Not that anything else on my bike is..lol

Thanks

Frank

Frank, let me know if you have any questions... I'll be stumbling through this myself and will try to post answers that I had questions on during these mods. If you have any specific questions let me know. I'll try to post some costs/prices as I get a little further.

Jeff

 

[RJ RJ RJ]

im sure its already been explained but i missed it.... what exactly is a Morley Muscle Carb Kit? is it a jetting and filter kit ?

 

[hubeerjw]

It is Sean Morley's carb kit that is similar to a stage 7. I haven't installed it yet, so I don't know all the facts, but it sounds like there are quite a few guys that have tried it and liked it. Sean's forum name is "one2dmax" if you want to PM him, or just do a quick search on this forum for it and you should be able to get some pretty good info. Sean will probably speak up as well.... right????

 

[mnmax]

It is simmilar to a stage 7. There was a side by side comparo in the VMOA vboost magazine, last year Maybe? there are pros and cons to both. i think Morelys produced more torque in the mid. Also beleive it was writen by Mark Milne if I remember correctly??
Im sure someone else here will see this and will be more helpful than I.

 

[QuarterHorse]

Yes I'll be watching this thread too. I'll be curious how yours does with the carb kit. I'm sporting the Stage 7 kit with a 4 into 1 and Kerker can, so the dyno numbers will intrigue me to say the least.

Maybe I missed where you said, but did you buy a complete kit, or are you piecing one together?

 

[lankeeyankee]

Well, this is going to be a multi-post thread, but I wanted to keep anyone interested, updated with my progress. I am in the middle of (actually I'm just getting started on) getting Sean Morley's Muscle Carb Kit installed as well as getting a little laughing gas put in. I purchased a Nitrous Express nitrous kit (60005P) with shots ranging from 40 to 100 horses. I have a 2.5lb bottle that I was going to try and hide, but I think that is going to complicate things so I've decided to just "let it all hang out". I'll try to share my learning experiences and if anyone has any questions, please let me know, and I'll do my best to answer them. I'm sure I'll be asking plenty of questions along the way as well.

I have the Nitrous/Fuel solenoids temporarily mounted on the studs that hold the gage assembly. I have found a nice spot for the additional fuel pump between the carbs and the coolant overflow tank. I have been told to "soft mount" this as the pump is prone to failure under heavy vibration. I will try to dampen it as much as possible. I have also read to put the fuel pump as low as possible to keep the fuel from draining back into the tank. I currently have it mounted above the tank, so I will be sure to keep an eye on this. I am also getting a fuel pressure safety switch installed, so if I lose fuel pressure, it will not keep adding nitrous and keep it from leaning out and eventually blowing the motor. I took off the carbs and manifolds tonight - pretty easy actually. (Much easier than my old Honda VF750) After removing the intake manifolds, I noticed a little oil coming out of the front/left-most and the rear/right-most allen bolt holes in the head (I tried to show this in one of the pictures) I also saw a very small amount of silicone on the threads, and really thought that the previous owner had stripped, and re-drilled these two holes. I called Mr. Morley, and he quickly reassured me they are tapped into the oil system and this was normal. I will try to do a step-by-step when I get around to putting in Morely's kit and will post pictures when I do. Other things I have done or am doing also includes, Galfer front brake lines, new mirrors w/ integrated turn signals (a little cheap looking, but they were cheap so..), a rear taillight w/ integrated turn signals, custom license plate bracket, and reverse shift pattern mod.

If I post something incorrectly, please feel free to let me know. I am new to nitrous, and am looking for any feedback.

Thanks,


Jeff I tried to send you an email with pictures. Shoot me an email when you have a chance to lankeeyanee@aol
If you need any help give me a call good luck with the install

Yankee:cheers:

 

[hubeerjw]

Well, things have still been going pretty slowly here, too damn cold! I think I am going to try and relocate my nitrous fuel pump to a lower point on the bike. I have seen quite a few posts about making sure the pump is below the fuel tank or as low as possible to ensure fuel does not trickle back into the tank. I think I am going to be mounting it to the swing arm somehow.... I also think it would be a good idea to have a separate fuel line and not tap into the existing stock line. I was thinking about removing the fuel drain plug and replacing it with a banjo nut/bolt combo.

Does anyone know what the drain bolt/plug size and threads are?

I really don't want to puncture another hole in the tank if I don't have to. Another concern is that I'll be sucking in all the crap from the bottom of my tank (if there is any). I am planning on running a nitrous fuel line filter, and I will have a fuel pressure safety switch if that line does get plugged up. If I can get this to work, I'll need to make sure and do some pressure and flow checks to make sure the banjo bolts aren't restricting it too much. If anyone has any thoughts, please let me know.
Jeff

 

[4gasem]

Use a petcock which will pull the fuel an inch or so above the bottom...:thumbs up:

 

[Rusty McNeil]

If your not running a center stand anymore but still have the mounting tabs on the frame you could possibly work out something using that as a place to mount the fuel pump......??????


I think I've seen that somewhere out there on the internet maybe.....

Rusty

 

[hubeerjw]

I just got back from Wichita and have lots to do! Morley helped me out with getting my carbs up to snuff... and a few other things. I am very excited to get out there and open it up!

My next project will be replacing the fuel tank drain bolt with a banjo nut/bolt from my stock front brake lines. (they have been replaced with braided SS lines) I will cut the other hose end off and use it for some of the nitrous fuel line.... Does anyone know if there will be any problems with fuel in the brake hose..... could the fuel brake down the hose? I will hook it up to the nitrous fuel pump and do a few comparison checks to make sure I have enough flow through the banjo bolts comparted to the stock fuel supply line.

I have lots to do and will post as I get more accompolished.

Jeff

 

[4gasem]

I just got back from Wichita and have lots to do! Morley helped me out with getting my carbs up to snuff... and a few other things. I am very excited to get out there and open it up!

My next project will be replacing the fuel tank drain bolt with a banjo nut/bolt from my stock front brake lines. (they have been replaced with braided SS lines) I will cut the other hose end off and use it for some of the nitrous fuel line.... Does anyone know if there will be any problems with fuel in the brake hose..... could the fuel brake down the hose? I will hook it up to the nitrous fuel pump and do a few comparison checks to make sure I have enough flow through the banjo bolts comparted to the stock fuel supply line.

I have lots to do and will post as I get more accompolished.

Jeff

A/M lines are Teflon. I would use those and not the rubber ones as I'm sure they aren't fuel safe.

I have stock lines coming out my ass... From the SV and the Max...

 

[hubeerjw]

O.k... got some more information from Mike @ Nitrous Express... they are sure good people to work with!

The fuel pump NEEDS to be mounted low. I was told the NX pump can push fuel for miles, but will not pull it well. I think I am going to mount it near the swingarm/center stand area.

Nitrous fuel filter: I was told to just buy the cheap clear cone shaped filters with the brass filter... they will get all the big stuff that could plug a jet, but still allows good flow and you can see if/when it needs replaced.. plus they are available everywhere for a good price.

Fuel & Nitrous Lines: I was given 12" SS braded lines for both the fuel and nitrous lines. I was thinking about going to solid/hard lines, but have since changed my mind after talking to NX. 12" is not long enough for my original solenoid mounting location, but NX HIGHLY recommends that you do not go any longer than 12". Basically he said you let off the nitrous button and the throttle, the high pressure nitrous will stop, but the low pressure fuel will still drip/drain into the intakes and the longer the line, the more fuel will drain and he said it feels like you are still into the throttle even though you already let off. With that being said, I need to re-think my mounting locations.

I guess the nitrous fuel flow rate is pretty low (the guy threw out 5 gph, but I think that was just a low number he threw out there). I am going to try and locate a bolt with a barb/nipple on it and just hook my nitrous fuel line to it. That should give me more flow than a banjo bolt, but I'll have to see what I can come up with.

That's about it for now.... don't know if this is useful to anyone or not, but I'm learning a lot.

Jeff

 

[113s&s]

whats the cost of a professional install..and the reliably if used say 5 times a year on te highway..say with small small power gain of 20 30 hp.....cost for kit and install

 

[hubeerjw]

I am planning on spending around $800 for everything, but that also includes a few extra upgrades that aren't needed, but I feel it is well worth the money. I'm sure having a professional install would be a fair amount more, but my wife has me on a very limited budget.... oh, and she doesn't know that I already bought the nitrous kit.....oops.

Anyway, I'm hoping the Morley kit will put me up in the upper 120's for HP... maybe more under the right conditions and tuning. The smallest HP shot I can spray with my nitrous kit is 40 HP, and can go up to 100 HP. I'm going to start with the 40, and see how things go. I'm sure I will need a progressive controller if/when I go to a larger spray to keep the tire from spinning. I don't think you can beat the gas for the performance boost.. best bang for the buck in my opinion. Plus I plan on moving up to a faster bike someday and can hopefully move it over. I know nitrous isn't for everyone and if I could keep the bike naturally aspirated or have that extra 40-plus HP at the twist of the throttle, I would. I'm hoping to have everything very well documented for everyone in the group, so they will not need to have a professional install.... so far, it hasn't been too tough, but I've also been helped my many knowledgeable people.

I did make some headway with the drain plug/fuel fitting modification. The drain bolt is 8X1.25 and I am going to use a longer bolt (approx 1.5? or so) and drill a 5/32?
hole through the center of it. I?m going to have a buddy braze on a 1/8? male/male pipe thread connector (union?) to the bolt head. From there I will be able to thread on an elbow and/or a hose barb where I can connect my nitrous fuel line too. I could go with a larger hole size through the bolt, but I think I?ll be good with such a little flow rate. I?m hoping to have that done and get my pump mounted and lines ran soon.

That?s it for now.

Jeff

 

[QuarterHorse]

Just don't skimp on the fuel side of it. Lean is the enemy when spraying.

 

[hubeerjw]

I've got the fuel pressure safety switch and I will run some pressure/flow checks before trying to spray the funny gas.... I'll be VERY careful... I can't afford a F-up!