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A little update about the Koso's RX2N meter I am using.
After 2 units' that gives same defect , EOBD and OIL light flushing after several days without been connected to the bike wiring at all and the problem with non properly working tachometer on V-Max 1200 .
The guys from Koso Taiwan send me third up grated meter RX2N+ (plus) with different CPU and software , finally RPM working fine no issues at all.

here is a poor video of moment after I connect it :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62ug9vJXdJ0

and one after the bike was assembled :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCLSYFZOIpQ


I still have not connect the Oil and EOBD lights ( the orange and violet wires on first video that are issolated at the end ) these two red lights are still on the genuine dash board .
This is because the Koso meter needs a negative signal to it Oil ware
and since v-Max don't have EOBD light I want to connect there fuel warning light but I am not shore how to do this and I don't want to damage the unit during some experiments .

Can some body from here that is well familiar with max wiring and way of working to these two lights help me find a solution.

here is Koso's wiring installation instruction :

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/2821/kosowiringinstruction.jpg

and here is v-max wiring diagram, I out some colors on top of it :

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/8651/vmx12colorwiring.jpg

The point is that Koso needs Negative for it oil light and a positive for EOBD light.
I want to connect max's fuel light to Koso EOBD light but because of the other time they flashing , when starting the engine a am litle confused to which wire to connect Koso's wires .
I think I will have to remove genuine bulbs from genuine dash to prevent errors like wneh connecting the turn signals - with genuine bulb , Koso meter was showing both sides no meter wish turn signal is on .

other thing :
thanks to this thread :
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=5766
I am ready with 2005 kawasaki 636 COPs to replace my oem these days :)

thanks to dannymax & naughtyG for good explanations
 
you can use a venture oil sender to get the opposite wiring but not sure if it will still work. Basically, the early 86-93 venture sending units work opposite of the vmax. The light is on during normal acceleration and goes off during hard acceleration.

Sean
 
About oil sender I will make some sort of inverter

Now latest update :
the new COPs :)



















For the front cylinders I use 5 mm. thick rubber sheet, cut it to 4x4 cm. pieces and made a holes in the center .



those are the materials :



sorry for the bad quality of the last pictures, I made it with my phone.
 
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Very nice job man :punk:

I like those zx14 wheels on v-max, they look very similar to carozzerias.

I may give you advise with aluminium welding, dont wanna be smart *** but
i've converted many wheels, mostly suzi wheels like tl1000, busa, gsxr and some other brands. Theres no need to hold the rim with any brackets and special tools when wleding the hub. I've destroyed 2 rims trying to find the best way to welding the rims. Do not use TIG method, use MAG method and weld it pointly with long brakes. Welding with TIG creates very high temp
and its dificult to not get rim warped and bent.

While using MAG method temp is lower and if you'll make some breaks while welding then 100% guaranteed welding without amny bent or warpage.

Also always start welding in the places where spokes goes to the hub.




Did you make zx14 fork longer to fit the v-max lenth?

I can see that you used zx14 tripple tree. You dont have any problems with spacing the fork from radiator?
I've found that zx10r trees have steam much closer to forks then v-max.

Im curently converting zx10r fork and the are about 140mm shorter then v-max. I guess theres no chance to make v-max lowered by 140mm :)


I was in Sofia couple years ago. Beautiful city ;)
 
Thanks satariel666
Actually about welding and cutting I was just e spectator, the guys from the shop here in Sofia made mostly all of it .
Thank you for the advice:thumbs up: will use it for future projects.
About the fork : yes there was stretch with about 4.5 cm but it still shorter than max genuine fork that's why the bike is 4 cm lower than before ( also 17" wheels make's it lower )
About triple trees and radiator :
I just cut a little piece from top part of the right plastic radiator cover very small piece about 2 mm. and no other modification the radiator is about 5 mm. on each side .
And about ZX14, first I start with the wheels, I really like them after that I decide to use the fork and brakes because didn't want to assemble stuff from different bikes, too complicated .That way I just make modification to the rear wheel , little cut to the swing arm ( for the 190 tire ) , reverse of the top triple tree and shorten the axis of the lower one and that seems to be most of hard part.
There is a bunch of little modification like custom bracket for the R1 front fender, Koso meter bracket, ( I find a laser cutting facility and was extremely excited that they can do mostly everything from 0.5 to 15 mm. thick, just make an accurate draft send it on the e-mail and after few days get real elements by mail :) ) fasten the head light I want it lower as it can be ... and stuff like that .

I haven't look the ZX10 because my point was except the fact that I like the zx14 wheel I was looking at the bike weight just to be more calm that it will take v-max weight with no problems .

Yes I lost part of turning angle of the front but I used to it and now I don't even notice it .

All best
voltage
 
So you've answered on all my questions. No more questions.
Again, great work and definitly you should go for more like engine mods :)

About the tripple trees.
So thats why i will machine them for a new.
Mostly becouse i dont wanna make the bike shorter. V-max is already quite shorty bike :D
 
Nice ride, sad we don't hear the bike.
At least, you did put a great music :punk:

Roads are still in a better shape than here lol At least no big hole in the middle :)
 
Yeah , the roads are sad story ...

Soon planning on create a few more videos just need more materials but the weather is get in colder so may be next season
Till than ,the new Barnett and Kerker 4-1 will warm my heart :)
 
I've just get Marks 4-2-1 and i can tell you: Forget about Kerker.

Marks eats kerker on breakfast, sound is absofuckinlutly.


You can safe some money on DD clutch mod, with DD you will get exactly the same like Barnett and safe some money.
Or you can talk to Sean about old Venture clutch upgrade.
 
The Clutch is on it's way already but the exhaust is still a plan .
Can you tell me what exactly is the difference between Kerker and Mark's exhaust
My goal is to increase cornering clearance, lose some weight and gain some more power with that Jet St 7
With OEM exhaust I am having some troubles on the low corners always touch the ground with it and some times the bike jumps in the opposite direction when it hit the exhaust while I am trying to get it on a low angle fast .

Will appreciate any advice .
 
The floor hitting the exhaust ? I guess I never have seen so low yet.
I don't feel so comfortable with the state of the road here and the handling of the bike. Still scary for me :ummm:
 
Curently the bike is lowered with approximately 3.5 - 4 cm ( 1.3779527545 - 1.574803148 " )
and it's easier to touch the floor now
 
The Clutch is on it's way already but the exhaust is still a plan .
Can you tell me what exactly is the difference between Kerker and Mark's exhaust
My goal is to increase cornering clearance, lose some weight and gain some more power with that Jet St 7
With OEM exhaust I am having some troubles on the low corners always touch the ground with it and some times the bike jumps in the opposite direction when it hit the exhaust while I am trying to get it on a low angle fast .

Will appreciate any advice .
Marks is stainless, Kerker is chrommed and its like to get rust'y.

Mark keeps the centerstand, Kerker not.

Marks have swaped rear pipes, left rear goes to left front,
Kerker have opposite rear pipes connection.

Weight of Mark 4-2-1 is about 8,5kg so very similar to Kerker.



I use to run with stock headers and two bros slipons with DJS7 and i can tell you(bike is still on the centerstand) that now its revs like hell and sound is freakin awsome, big big difrence!
Will tell you more when i can finaly ride it :bang head:


You're grinding with mufflers or front headers?

If you're grinding with mufflers thats quite normal couse its not a sport bike :)

If you're grindig with front headers then you bike is to low and none exhaust will suit you.


After instaling radials i can really touch the road by centerstand and even more, i can grind the footpegs. You know what im talking about :)

I supose that you've removed the centerstand, huh?
 
The floor hitting the exhaust ? I guess I never have seen so low yet.
I don't feel so comfortable with the state of the road here and the handling of the bike. Still scary for me :ummm:
I think hes refering hitting with MUFFLERS. Stock ones are very big and thats quite normal when you're running with radials :)
 
I don't have much problem with my high mount pipe and the 13" stock shocks.
The clearance is pretty good.
Now I know why all second hand stock pipes on ebay are damaged on the side of the end of the can :)
 
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