My motor seems broken after I overrev'd

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Right. I took a close-up now and it can be seen better.

So this is the source of the pop in the exhaust or the the reason the cylinder is failing? I might still have issues with the floats as well correct?

Thanks again for all the help. As you may notice I'm a novice.

View attachment 50478View attachment 50479

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Can you post a close up pic of the other side- carbs #2&1.
 
I took the covers off and attached some pictures. Seems the cover on the right side had broken off and was welded on. Might be some kind of epoxy material. View attachment 50473View attachment 50474View attachment 50476View attachment 50477

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You can also see some jbweld on the right manifold he put it there to try and keep it from breaking off.
You will probably need all 4 rubber boots and when they are taken off look inside the cast iron manifold where the jbweld was used to hold that tab that broke off and see if it is damaged on the inside.
 
If you have the stock coils the iridiums are going to be gapped at 32.
If you have cops they should be gapped at 27.
BE CAREFUL if you have to gap them. The tips are known to break off as they are tiny and the insulators are very fragile.
Ok see your coils are stock.
I bought a tool along the plugs but didn't have to use it as the plugs were all at 0.032 / 0.033

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Will post pictures of the other side first thing in the morning. Do you think changing the boots is something I can do myself without messing with the carbs? Or will that require carburetor adjustment to put it back together?

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Will post pictures of the other side first thing in the morning. Do you think changing the boots is something I can do myself without messing with the carbs? Or will that require carburetor adjustment to put it back together?

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You can do it yourself. Here is a sticky on how to change the jets. Of course your not changing jets.....but you can use the advice on how to get the carbs out.....and back on.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3570
 
Broken intake? replace it. JB weld is great, but no way it belongs on there. Don't use a hand impact on the carb cover screws, or you'll crack the manifold. Don't ask me how I know.
rofl_200.gif
I felt better when Don (Old Man)Smith told me he did the same thing.
 
Thank you all for the help. Here are pics of the rubber boots on the other sideuploadfromtaptalk1440423415794.jpguploadfromtaptalk1440423424833.jpguploadfromtaptalk1440423434805.jpg

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I would suggest investing in a good set of screwdriver bita or the universal Japanese screwdrivers available online. The wrong bit will make your mechanic side of life miserable.
 
I would suggest investing in a good set of screwdriver bita or the universal Japanese screwdrivers available online. The wrong bit will make your mechanic side of life miserable.

Thanks for the advice. I have lots of tools at my disposal the only thing I don't have is a garage. I live in an apartment building in Queens, NY :hmmm: I will have to do this outside on the sidewalk. :bang head:
 
Most of the stuff that needs to be done, doesnt really take that long. You can have the carbs off, and back on in about an hour and a half. Without the carbs on, the intake is easy to get to....so for everything 2-3 hrs MAX.
 
Thank you all for the help. Here are pics of the rubber boots on the other sideView attachment 50487View attachment 50488View attachment 50489

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You don't need to make any adjustments on the carbs after pulling them off just remember to drain the bowls first. Also you have a lot of debris on one of the drain hoses- just clean up what you can while you have them off. By the look of the photo you are going to need all 4 of the intake boots. The most important is looking down that manifold and making sure it does not have a leak from the broken tab. Hopefully not.
The hardest part of the whole "operation" is getting the carbs back in the boots-wd40.
 
Great! Feeling more comfortable about this. I will see if I can order the boots today.

Regarding the carb sync, is there a guide on what I need and how to do it? Seems I will need to sync them after I put them back.

Thanks again for the help!

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just my 2 cents here but buy your parts from Sean Morley the customer service you get is invaluable and worth every cent you may save from ebay !
 
Great! Feeling more comfortable about this. I will see if I can order the boots today.

Regarding the carb sync, is there a guide on what I need and how to do it? Seems I will need to sync them after I put them back.

Thanks again for the help!

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You will not need to sync the carbs after taking them off.....and putting them on, because your not changing anything. Now if you were re jetting, or splitting the carbs up (instead of keeping all 4 together) then you would need to sync. Now....is it possible that your carbs NEED to be sync'd? yes.....is it good to have a sync tool? Yes. Is it needed to change the carb boots and swap intakes....no. How to sync carbs http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3959

Sean is the man for customer service.
 
I'd say it good practice to synch the carbs anytime they are removed from the engine regardless of them being split apart or not.
 
If you have the stock coils the iridiums are going to be gapped at 32.
If you have cops they should be gapped at 27.
BE CAREFUL if you have to gap them. The tips are known to break off as they are tiny and the insulators are very fragile.
Ok see your coils are stock.


In which info you co substantiate that affirmation? With cops and increase in current I would expect a stronger spark (if secondary winding is anything similar to stock) so bigger gap not smaller. You mention after that yours are at 38 so I don't know where the 27 comes from.
 

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