My motor seems broken after I overrev'd

[Traumahawk]

In which info you co substantiate that affirmation? With cops and increase in current I would expect a stronger spark (if secondary winding is anything similar to stock) so bigger gap not smaller. You mention after that yours are at 38 so I don't know where the 27 comes from.

He might be talking about the COPS with resistors. The general consensus was they should be gapped at .026.....and that was with the stock ignition.

 

[Dragmaxster]

He might be talking about the COPS with resistors. The general consensus was they should be gapped at .026.....and that was with the stock ignition.

Threads on here say 1985 conversion to cops w/resistors gap at .026-.027.
I was using iridium plugs gapped at .027 getting 42mpg. Stock carbs, stock pipe, stock jets and single k&n.
I am now 157.5, ngk stock plugs gapped at 38 and getting 44mpg.

 

[Dragmaxster]

In which info you co substantiate that affirmation? With cops and increase in current I would expect a stronger spark (if secondary winding is anything similar to stock) so bigger gap not smaller. You mention after that yours are at 38 so I don't know where the 27 comes from.

I read this in a conversation between you and traumahawk on 6-15-2015

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=37293&highlight=.026&page=2

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Yeah I never really understand why cops with standard TCI should be gapped at 26/27. I could understand if they were resistored which would lower current requiring a narrower gap but not with the non resistored ones which actually cause a higher current. To be honest I don't have enough knowledge to talk about how an increase in current in the primary would affect the secondary firing. My logic tells me that an increase in current would only allow for a quicker charge of the coil not affecting the discharge of the secondary. But I hope any electrical brainiac can correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[Traumahawk]

Here is my answer on another thread.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=412375&postcount=26

 

[Dragmaxster]

Yeah I never really understand why cops with standard TCI should be gapped at 26/27. I could understand if they were resistored which would lower current requiring a narrower gap but not with the non resistored ones which actually cause a higher current. To be honest I don't have enough knowledge to talk about how an increase in current in the primary would affect the secondary firing. My logic tells me that an increase in current would only allow for a quicker charge of the coil not affecting the discharge of the secondary. But I hope any electrical brainiac can correct me if I'm wrong.

The main reason plugs are resistored is for noise-radio, mobile phones, stopping noise from interferring with an ecu.

In nearly all cases – apart from some very old low output ignition systems – resistor spark plugs can be used in place of the non resistor versions with no detrimental effect on engine performance, power output or vehicle emissions.
And i'm no braniac.

 

[bkuberek]

Had the bike looked at by the mechanic. Got new tires and flushed all fluids. Apparently I have a leak and oil is getting mixed with the coolant system.

I did not do the intake yet but the bike has started running much better, I am assuming the temporary performance issues might be due to gunk being released as I have been doing a seafoam treatment for the past month. Just finished a second bottle of Seafoam (1/4 bottle per full tank).

What can I do to stop oil getting in the coolant system? And could it be that seafoam is what has been causing my performance issues?

Currently, the bike pops (exhaust) a lot while cold but once warm it is idling pretty good. The vboost started working again and the performance is great.

 

[Dragmaxster]

Had the bike looked at by the mechanic. Got new tires and flushed all fluids. Apparently I have a leak and oil is getting mixed with the coolant system.

I did not do the intake yet but the bike has started running much better, I am assuming the temporary performance issues might be due to gunk being released as I have been doing a seafoam treatment for the past month. Just finished a second bottle of Seafoam (1/4 bottle per full tank).

What can I do to stop oil getting in the coolant system? And could it be that seafoam is what has been causing my performance issues?

Currently, the bike pops (exhaust) a lot while cold but once warm it is idling pretty good. The vboost started working again and the performance is great.

The seafoam in your gas tank will not affect your cooling system.
You bike is popping is probably a clogged jet in your jet block.
As the bike is warming up use a laser temp gun or your hands and feel the heads to find out which carb is warming the slowest. Check your spark with a plug outside the hole or use a multimeter on the plugwire.
You should have your carbs cleaned out.
I cannot tell you why oil is getting in your coolant system but on a car engine that is usually a blown head gasket or a cracked head.

 

[Miles Long]

And now that youv'e got it running decent, with no apparent internal damage (here's hoping) - keep in mind that no performance gains or horsepower is added after the redline. You are just asking for trouble giving it a "hot supper".
It's an old girl, treat her right. She was built for moderate abuse only.
Above all, ride safe, and within your skill level.
Cheers!unk:

 

[Dragmaxster]

And now that youv'e got it running decent, with no apparent internal damage (here's hoping) - keep in mind that no performance gains or horsepower is added after the redline. You are just asking for trouble giving it a "hot supper".
It's an old girl, treat her right. She was built for moderate abuse only.
Above all, ride safe, and within your skill level.
Cheers!unk:

+1 Great advice.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

The main reason plugs are resistored is for noise-radio, mobile phones, stopping noise from interferring with an ecu.

In nearly all cases – apart from some very old low output ignition systems – resistor spark plugs can be used in place of the non resistor versions with no detrimental effect on engine performance, power output or vehicle emissions.
And i'm no braniac.

Im sorry not to be clear. By resistored plugs i meant the setup with inline power resistors on the feeding leads to lower current caused by lower resistance COPS vs higher resistance stock coils, not the self resistored plugs which our stock ones already are (dpR8ea-9). Sorry for the confusion.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

I would do a compression test. Im foreseeing a blown head gasket like mentioned previously and your popping may come from there also. Another possibility for mixing oil and coolant can be orings on the pencil case inbetween the 2 heads and the water pump seal. ANy of the last 2 is way better to fix than the first one.

 

[bkuberek]

So I might have to the take the whole thing apart to figure out right? I have been hopping everything would just start working by itself :biglaugh:

 

[sdt354]

The water pump seal, like Fred mentioned, is something to consider. A pump redo is good maintenance after 30k or so. Or, if you start getting coolant leaking out the weep hole under the pump housing. It's something that you can do quickly. There are threads here on it, along with a list of parts needed. Sean will know everything you need and treat you right for parts or service.
I'd save your $$ on the valve adjustment and check it yourself. All you need are basic tools and feeler gauges. New gaskets are prudent. Then go to a mechanic, if your not comfortable doing it or don't want to invest in a cam tool needed to compress the valve springs. PCW is right near Albany. They are Vmax specialist that can be trusted to do anything on your bike. John Gainey is always willing to help out, from my experience with him. http://www.pcwracing.net/. 112 Henry St. - Schenectady NY 12304 518 346 - 7203
Steve-o

 

[bkuberek]

The water pump seal, like Fred mentioned, is something to consider. A pump redo is good maintenance after 30k or so. Or, if you start getting coolant leaking out the weep hole under the pump housing. It's something that you can do quickly. There are threads here on it, along with a list of parts needed. Sean will know everything you need and treat you right for parts or service.
I'd save your $$ on the valve adjustment and check it yourself. All you need are basic tools and feeler gauges. New gaskets are prudent. Then go to a mechanic, if your not comfortable doing it or don't want to invest in a cam tool needed to compress the valve springs. PCW is right near Albany. They are Vmax specialist that can be trusted to do anything on your bike. John Gainey is always willing to help out, from my experience with him. http://www.pcwracing.net/. 112 Henry St. - Schenectady NY 12304 518 346 - 7203
Steve-o

Thanks for the info!

 

[bkuberek]

So performance continues to improve and I haven't seen any oil in my water however I had a problem with cooling system today. The temp gage started going above red line and I started to smell antifreeze. Luckily i was near home. As soon as I parked the bike I saw antifreeze was pouring from the overflow hose.

One more thing to add to my issues list. Antifreeze had boiled and the fan stopped working. How do I figure out if it is the thermostat or the pump?

 

[Traumahawk]

It's probably a fan issue. If it was the thermostat. ...it would either stick open....and take a long time to warm up.....or stick close and it would get really hot really quickly. A water pump will leak out the weep hole if it's going bad.

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[bkuberek]

It's probably a fan issue. If it was the thermostat. ...it would either stick open....and take a long time to warm up.....or stick close and it would get really hot really quickly. A water pump will leak out the weep hole if it's going bad.

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Just tried a couple hours ago with the bike cold. I turned it on and choked at about 3000 and it went over the red line in less than 10 minutes. Fan never went on and the engine started to want to die once it got hot.

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[Traumahawk]

So it could be other things as well.....but does sound like a fan issue first. I don't know if there is a fuel specifically for the fan or not.

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[bkuberek]

Going to test all the wires tomorrow and order a manual switch. Should I go ahead and replace the t-stat as well just in case? What should I do with the antifreeze that comes out?

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