My motor seems broken after I overrev'd

[bkuberek]

By the way, thanks a lot of all the help I'm getting here.

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[Traumahawk]

Going to test all the wires tomorrow and order a manual switch. Should I go ahead and replace the t-stat as well just in case? What should I do with the antifreeze that comes out?

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You could go ahead and replace the thermostat as well. There is a post on here somewhere that gives a Nissan part number for a thermostat as well. You can take the antifreeze down to your local part store for recycling. Someone people will dump it.....but I don't agree with that because it poisonous.

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[Traumahawk]

By the way, thanks a lot of all the help I'm getting here.

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Your very welcome. Here is an excellent post by Firemedic that gives part#'s etc.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=405431&postcount=6

 

[bkuberek]

Here is a video I just took: https://goo.gl/photos/2cm7bjaZ9axwfT1p9

It wasn't not leaking like this last night. Started leaking overnight.

The antifreeze was replaced last week, could I reuse it?

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[bkuberek]

Sorry I'm a bit confused. There seems to be two thermostats. If understand well there is an engine thermostat under the 3rd cylinder and there is a thermostat under the right scoop. Which one do I need to look at? Both? Given I have a leak under the engine I assume I have to do that one as well.

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[Dorney]

Sorry I'm a bit confused. There seems to be two thermostats. If understand well there is an engine thermostat under the 3rd cylinder and there is a thermostat under the right scoop. Which one do I need to look at? Both? Given I have a leak under the engine I assume I have to do that one as well.

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You only have one thermostat & that is the housing where the leak is. You'll have to pull the transfer/drain tube out of the housing & replace the O-Ring on the end of the tube very simple fix.

Dave

 

[bkuberek]

Ok cool. I got the book now and I can see step by step instructions. Only thing it doesn't have is troubleshooting instructions. I will get both thermostat and thermoswitch BWD TFS545. Will order the manual override as well.

How do I test the water pump is ok?

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[bkuberek]

Just got the thermostat off. Going to do the boiling water test. The manual says it should start opening between 176º ~ 183º F (80º ~ 84º C) and it should be fully open at 203º F (95º C).

It was quite fun getting it out in the dark outside on the street I saved the antifreeze so I can put it back.

 

[Dorney]

If you get a new thermostat I would recommend a Stant # 48368.

Dave

 

[bkuberek]

Thanks Dave. I'm going to call a couple of shops tomorrow see if I can find them. I did the test and here are the results:

Started opening at ~185° F
Was quite open at ~200°+ F

Not sure how trusty my thermometer is though. See pics.



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[Dorney]

Thanks Dave. I'm going to call a couple of shops tomorrow see if I can find them. I did the test and here are the results:

Started opening at ~185° F
Was quite open at ~200°+ F

Not sure how trusty my thermometer is though. See pics.

View attachment 50592View attachment 50593

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Those numbers are right in the ball park just a few degrees low. The stant number I gave you is going to lower it 20 to 30 degrees.

Dave

 

[bkuberek]

Got the stant thermostat and installed. Unfortunately could not find o-rings and the old ones are too worn. Ordered the TFS-545 thermoswitch and an o-ring kit. We'll see how that goes. Also adding a fan override.

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[bkuberek]

Replaced the thermostat with the stant model suggested. Also replaced the o-rings. I have no more leak around the thermostat housing but I still have the boiling issue. For some reason the water is boiling and coming out the overflow. I wired the fan so it is always on until I get the thermoswich. Don't know what else to do.

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[Dorney]

Replaced the thermostat with the stant model suggested. Also replaced the o-rings. I have no more leak around the thermostat housing but I still have the boiling issue. For some reason the water is boiling and coming out the overflow. I wired the fan so it is always on until I get the thermoswich. Don't know what else to do.

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When doing all of this did you open the valve on the transfer/drain tube & forget to close it again ? That could be the problem as fluid is not cycling in system the right way.

Dave

 

[bkuberek]

I closed it. Read somewhere about the cap not holding pressure. Going to do a search for the part number and replace that too.

I tested the thermoswich and in fact it doesn't work. That part comes on Wednesday.

I put some thought into it and I am thinking that when the thermoswich stopped working the system has been running too hot and all the other parts started to give away. So perhaps the cap is bad too as a result of the system running too hot. Does that sound right?

I am assuming that replacing the switch and the cap may resolve this.

Once I get the cooling system working again, I can go back to focus on my engine issues.

Thanks for the help and patience.

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[bkuberek]

Anyone knows if this caps are ok? http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermark...se-racing-high-pressure-radiator-cap?m=145356

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[Traumahawk]

Let us know how it turns out.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

You have 2 thermo switches. The big one with a 2 pole connector is the fan kicker and the tiny one with a jack like connector is for the temp gauge.

 

[bkuberek]

ah, thanks for that info. yesterday I was running the bike with the fan switch wired so the fan was always on, but I think it was also short circuited asI connected the two prongs on the switch. Not sure this was related but the temp gage stopped workng at that time. After riding a couple of miles I unwired the fan switch and temp gage started working again. What is also strange is that the fan switch started working as well. I'm replacing that one anyway as soon as I get. Seems it works when it wants too.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

The fan switch is just a bridge that closes the circuit above a certain temperature to make the fan run. That's all