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Don't you guys think it would be profitable to make a thread with all this info? I do not want to keep all the knowledge in my thread... LOL eventhough its making it richer...
 
Don't you guys think it would be profitable to make a thread with all this info? I do not want to keep all the knowledge in my thread... LOL eventhough its making it richer...

Sorry. All I typically discuss is suspension and track time and I have a bad tendency to do it where ever folks ask questions. I'll behave now.
 
i was thinking the same thing but i'm not entirely sure how to, maybe kj or chris can?
 
i was thinking the same thing but i'm not entirely sure how to, maybe kj or chris can?

No thanks to mr CH since I have been warned to let him go or GO from this forum...

KJ is always the right man, the highly skilled user with "millage"
Actually there is a thread called Dave Moss Unsprung and all info can go there.
 
Ah, I see. Static sag is a relative starting point, that is supposed to be repeatable, not so much a definite. If your static and free sags are within the correct range, or percentage of travel they let us know the spring is appropriate for that bike/rider combo. And the damping curves should match that spring. But what they don't count for is rider preference/habits, tire choices etc. That's where fine tuning, rider feedback and reading tire wear comes in. And Dave is probably one of the best in the industry at that. I send him pictures of tires a couple times of year and he helps me figure out what is happening. Amazing guy.

A .95 kg/mm spring would be pretty close for you in the forks. I'm still running the stock springs on my Vmax, but this winter I'm looking into emulators and a different spring. Probably run the .95 myself, although the calculator tells me I should run a 1.0 kg/mm. I'm not really looking for cutting edge performance. But I will get ahold of Sean for some shocks. I bought some mufflers off him recently and it was a fantastic experience all around. He takes good care of his customers. Something that at times, seems to be becoming rare with people selling stuff.

When I ordered my Racetech with gold emulators , Racetech recommended 1.0 , but some experienced old farts told me that would be too stiff & to step down to .95 , I weighed 210 - 215 lbs , and it was right on . ( Running lightweight Lightcons 17" & Michelin Pilot Powers ) .

:punk:
 
Sorry. All I typically discuss is suspension and track time and I have a bad tendency to do it where ever folks ask questions. I'll behave now.

By all means Dan, be my guest... I enjoy it... I just think its lots of useful info just to be posted only here. Do you mind to post that link to that thread on R1 forum about the suspension you sent me? I think everyone would be appreciative... Thanks and keep rebounding... :eusa_dance:
 
Time for new updates...
Mocked up the rearsets brackets. These were cut with plasma torch for a quick fitment check. This week new ones will be done in laser for a proper finish. After that just fix the links on the foot levers and will be ready for powdercoating...

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Plasma quality is little better then posted ont those pics LOL
To be honest its the worst plasma cutting I ever saw :biglaugh:

Dont you have any waterjet cutting there? By waterjet you can aquire the best quality - like that one below, now just only 400 sandpaper and then fine polish.

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This set was only to check for bolt fitment. A friend did it for me free of charge, so its good enough. I will do it in laser because its cheaper and enough quality for powder coating, just needs a bit of sand blasting to get rid of the edges...
 
Laser is good for lets say up to 6mm thick sheet - more to say laser rules there.

Actually waterjet is far more cheaper (approx twice less) then laser but its damnn slow. Mine rearests were cut from 20mm thick alu and the cutting speed for leats say "letters" was around 50mm/min.

I like that rear set, Prez !!!
Thx, I like them too LOL
Its a second version actually.
 
Here waterjet is more expensive than laser. Don't ask me why i do not know... I'll see the outcome of the laser cut and if not up to specs i'll go for waterjet. Im doing a trial with 8mm steel plate but probably if i have to go for waterjet i might use 10mm alu alloy. it depends on the degree of flex/torsion i get when standing up on the footpegs...
Why did you use 20mm thick plate? I think thats too thick...
 
Why 20mm? Cuz I've had some scrap pieces laying around. Secondable it does look cool, and I was worried about left side - stock left footpeg plate reinforce the frame so you may call this a "safety move".

I agree its hell of the piece of metal but - its still lightweight!

I considering puting those rearsets on sale in future - who knows!
I only need to finish passanger footpegs and they gonna be "foldable" (right word :ummm:).

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Why 20mm? Cuz I've had some scrap pieces laying around. Secondable it does look cool, and I was worried about left side - stock left footpeg plate reinforce the frame so you may call this a "safety move".

I agree its hell of the piece of metal but - its still lightweight!

I considering puting those rearsets on sale in future - who knows!
I only need to finish passanger footpegs and they gonna be "foldable" (right word :ummm:).

It was because the left side that i firstly decided to do it with steel and not alu. Otherwise it had to be like yours (thick). My rear pegs will be foldable also. Im using Yamaha standard pegs. I need to find a pair of rear ones to fit them.
 
Why 20mm? Cuz I've had some scrap pieces laying around. Secondable it does look cool, and I was worried about left side - stock left footpeg plate reinforce the frame so you may call this a "safety move".

I agree its hell of the piece of metal but - its still lightweight!

I considering puting those rearsets on sale in future - who knows!
I only need to finish passanger footpegs and they gonna be "foldable" (right word :ummm:).

hehe you let us know :p
 
Another update... Finally did the jig for the intakes... Thanks Prez for the flanges sketches i was able to work in advance and had the flanges lasercut prior disassembling. I'll grab the opportunity to do a thorough cleaning on the engine. Now i need to get the carb rack all together again and start working on the new intakes... Fancy jig... It will be a cool paperweight once i replace the carbs and mount them on this jig with the intakes and all... Slow but moving... Thanks to Sean that threw me some help as well (Sean this thing is going... I already started to think how to do the intakes, some sketches Prez sent me gave me a different idea on how to do it, i'll let you know as soon as i have a mockup)...

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