New mod, new problem.

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Nope its deffently flooding rather than staving. Pulling the plugs you can really smell the gas on them. I took the plugs out Sunday at 10AM and get off work at 4PM today. So I think 50+ hours of letting it dry out should do the trick.

Take them out and with a torch in low temp (yellowish flame) let them burn till they get reddish in temp and then greyish/whiteish when cold and then you can reinstall. They don't just dry up, gasoline is greasy and will stay there isolating them...
 
Take them out and with a torch in low temp (yellowish flame) let them burn till they get reddish in temp and then greyish/whiteish when cold and then you can reinstall. They don't just dry up, gasoline is greasy and will stay there isolating them...

I dont have access to a torch sadly, but even if they dont completly dry off, they should be good after two days I would think.
 
Alright.

So I got home yesterday after getting off work, the plugs have been sitting out of the bike for a bit over 2 days at this point. I wipe off the plugs and take a torch to them to dry them off. (didn't realize how cheap they where lol).

Still fucking problems. Today the airbox comes off and tomorrow we will be looking at the carbs themselfs. Another thing we will be doing is disconnecting all the wiring we did. we both think this wont change anything, but its better then not doing it, and taking it to a shop and finding out thats what did it.
 
fuckkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk

We did everything possible. I have no idea what the problem could be. Waiting for the Yamaha shop to have a free slot and going to drop it off there to get them to diagnose it. Once we know what the problem is, I have no doubt we will be able to fix it.
 
Odd.

So I go to take off the covers of the motor, I figure if I am going to be sitting here, I might as well start touching up and painting the motor like I have been wanting to do.

I figure what the hell, I turn the bike on, and it cranks and starts right up. I scratch my head, and then it dies out. Try it again, always dieing out, and a bit of smoke coming from the bottom of the bike. I think its mostly just crap from when fulids got on the pipes. But either way, the bike is backfireing a lot and shutting off.

*shrugs*
 
Ok, I couldn't stop myself I went out to mess with the bike again. After rechecking everything I started it up, and it sounded strong for a good 20-30 seconds, and I actually could rev it a bit. It went through a bit of a stumble but made it threw it. A little while after it died.
 
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after listening to the 2 videos you posted id say you have an ignition issue, or maybe an issue getting enough voltage to power the ingnition system properly. and just for giggles..check to see if the vaccum advance hose is hooked up and not kinked or anything.
 
after listening to the 2 videos you posted id say you have an ignition issue, or maybe an issue getting enough voltage to power the ingnition system properly. and just for giggles..check to see if the vaccum advance hose is hooked up and not kinked or anything.

Tomorrow I will be taking out the pugs to see if I flooded it again. After that I plan on making another video. You can hear a clicking in the carb and then it studded a bit and recover. After a bit it simply dies out.

I am also undoing all the connections that where made when putting the tach on. I really hope I don't have to get as far as taking the Tap connections out.
 
get new plugs and quit drying those off. oreilly can get them
 
Alright, so I got new plugs days ago and that had no effect.

Today I got a package from Morley with a few spare electrical parts to play with and hopefully something will be able to plug and and solve all my problems. Sadly, it was not the case so far. I switched out the back two coils, they had hairline cracks in them. Not that I thought that was the problem but one could hope. Here is a video of it starting and dieing. Ignore the video, just listen to the audio (I guess youtube does not do audio files)

The video shows me starting it with no choke and letting it run and die out on its own.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWdO3kalwSU&feature=plcp
 
I don't think its a misfire/plug fail problem other wise you would get backfire when the mixture reach the exhaust. You have plenty of fuel getting in to the carbs? That sound is the same when you hit the kill switch. You can have an ignition problem with your ignition unit. Like said above check your charging system. These units are said to have hickups when they don't get enough juice from the battery... You can try one thing. Get a fully charged car battery and connect it to yours and get it to run again with the battery connected. You may have an issue with your battery that takes it to run lower on voltage quicker and your charging circuit may not cope with it... Before all measure voltage across the battery terminals to make sure you have full amount according with the values on the electrical section. You can also have a faulty ignition unit. You need to start on one end and then go from there eliminating one by one...
 
Tentative success!!!!!!

Just plugged in the black rectangular thing box up under the air box (very technical I know) and it ran for a good 4-5 minutes no problem, put it in first and second, was able to rev it, no problem. Tire was moving freely on the stand. I will button it all up in a bit, and take it out for a ride in a bit.
 
But in that case you should have noticed running rough before dying when the timing was off. You are talking about the Boost sensor right? The black box by the TCI with the hose going to intake #2 sync port. What i found strange as well is that it was idling when it died not revving up or down... Hmmm i need to dig into the books coz this doesn't seem logical... Theres something i might be missing then...
 
the only other box is the ecu...?? or the little diode box???

the way the bike dies...its like sumthing is getting heat soaked then failing.
 
K took it for its first test ride, did about half a mile with no problem.

The box had TID14-93 B on it, and I replaced it with TID14-93 C from morely.

If you couldent hear it in the video, the bike was reving up and down while idling.
 
the only other box is the ecu...?? or the little diode box???

the way the bike dies...its like sumthing is getting heat soaked then failing.

You still have the starter cutoff relay by the front left side...
 
K took it for its first test ride, did about half a mile with no problem.

The box had TID14-93 B on it, and I replaced it with TID14-93 C from morely.

If you couldent hear it in the video, the bike was reving up and down while idling.

Those ICUs are roughly the same. If the idling wasn't smooth at the supposed idle RPMs it can only be one of 2 things erratic spark firing or erratic fuel feed... Let us know how it goes with the new ICU.
 
Well it seems it was a temporary fix. I started it up no problem today, but when I went to rev it, it completely died, no hesitation whatsoever.
 
Soooo tired of this...

Alright an update. So we replaced the box and it was an improvement. I got it on the road and did about a 5 mile test ride. When I tried to hit the gas it was pretty sluggish. That being said when the RPM's where up a little and I hit it, there was no hesitation. Another thing I found was that it would only run while the switch was on reserve

About half a mile from the house shit hit the fan. I was coming out of a roundabout and the coolest boiled over. Naturally the coolent comes out right in front of the back tire so I was all over the road, went from almost nailing an oncoming car, to eating the sidewalk. Thankfully I was able to pull off to the side and get the side kick down. Got off and the cap from my coolent resivor busted so coolent went everywhere. I just sat down and watched. After a bit I looked and found that the fuse blew for my fan. Replaced it, went home.

After that crap just wouldent work. It would idel no problem but always had the problem with it being sluggish when trying to rev it. It was suggested I adjust the AF screws, after doing that it won't even idle now.
 
This is just an idea, but the bad gas you used could have messed with the seating of one or more of the float needles and allow the float bowls to overflow causing a rich condition. :confused2:
 
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