PCW pro oiler -vs- Morley HD oiler?

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If I get a chance i will try to take a picture of the pcw oil manifold. The mods made do help a lot in my opinion.
 
Pics would be great! Last year I started getting the "oil light" on heavy acceleration, and my bike NEVER use to get it. Makes me think I might have the dreaded o ring bulge. I always keep a close eye on my pressure gauge, and the pressure is good, but I'm going to order one of Sean's kits and tear into it....better safe than sorry!
 
Pics would be great! Last year I started getting the "oil light" on heavy acceleration, and my bike NEVER use to get it. Makes me think I might have the dreaded o ring bulge. I always keep a close eye on my pressure gauge, and the pressure is good, but I'm going to order one of Sean's kits and tear into it....better safe than sorry!

I can't say for sure (no real proof) if thats why, but in the fall my oil light started coming on easier/ more often. I pulled the pan and o ring was blown out. I know how the sensor works, but maybe the way the oil is being pushed around in the pan with the blow out makes a difference.:confused2:
 
Pulled my oil pan today. O-ring was not blown out! :) Hmmmm....should I still put the HD oiler kit in anyway? Thoughts?
 
Yes I have the kit, but I wish it had some sort of directions with it. Something more than an exploded view? Any body know of directions for his kit? Help???
 
Look on Sean's website perhaps?

Or look for the PCW instructions and leave off the irrelevant parts. I know they have instruction I those website.
 
Yes I have the kit, but I wish it had some sort of directions with it. Something more than an exploded view? Any body know of directions for his kit? Help???

Like rusty said, the pcw site has instructions for the pro oiler. That covers everything your gonna do. If you have that and a manual you should be good.

Basics:
Remove exhaust. Remove oil level sensor or unplug. Remove pan. Remove oil tube assembly. Remove pump.

Remove clutch cover. Remove clutch basket. Remove mainshaft bearing retainer strap.

Remove oil pump drive gear. Installer larger gear with washer.

Disassemble pump. Install shim on bypass spring. Re assemble pump.

Remove orange o ring from oil tube. Install kawi ring on tube. Re install pump and pipe assy. Pay attention to banjo fitting and the hardware.

Install new rubber bumper on botton of elbow. Reinstall pan, clutchn exhaust, etc.
 
Yes I have the kit, but I wish it had some sort of directions with it. Something more than an exploded view? Any body know of directions for his kit? Help???

i have a jpg from sean that gives instructions. i can't upload it though, must be something going on here at work. PM me your email addr and i'll forward it.
 
Be real careful with those damn phillips screws on the oil pump, I rounded one of mine out and had to weld a bolt onto it to get it to come free...

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
 
Note the washer colors may be incorrect (depends on what washers I have on hand at the time). Only one of the washers will fit on the gear counter shaft.
 
oh and both my brother and I stripped the threads in the block of the bolts that hold the oil pump to the block. i'd reocmmend getting some 5mm-10mm longer ss allen heads to replace them since you are adding the shim.
 
I guess I should have explained where I'm stumbling. The inner gear(the one that gets replaced) cannot come out with the shaft. There is a boss behind it, preventing it from moving more than about 3/8 of an inch. Are you suppose to take it out or remove the gear from the shaft way the hell up in there? Now, onto the washers: I see that there are 2 different sizes, but the larger one has a large chamfer on the inside....obviously the chamfer has a purpose....which way does it go in? I'll see if I can get some pics after work to help.
 
The inner gear can come out by exposing the outer gear first. By removing the covers and clutch basket i believe.
Then reach up inside the bottom of the motor and remove the c-clip off the inner gear making damn sure it doesn't going flying somewhere it shouldn't.
If you don't have some
90 degree c-clip pliers now would be a good to buy some.
Then pull the outer gear with shaft attached out while holding/catching the inner gear.

Pay attention to which side of the inner gear has the concavity facing. It matters.
 
I guess I should have explained where I'm stumbling. The inner gear(the one that gets replaced) cannot come out with the shaft. There is a boss behind it, preventing it from moving more than about 3/8 of an inch. Are you suppose to take it out or remove the gear from the shaft way the hell up in there? Now, onto the washers: I see that there are 2 different sizes, but the larger one has a large chamfer on the inside....obviously the chamfer has a purpose....which way does it go in? I'll see if I can get some pics after work to help.

You need to take the gear off when it is way the hell up in there.
Remove the clutch basket, remove the plastic gear from the shaft, remove the retaining strap on the mainshaft bearing. Now reach up in there and open up the c clip on the gear and pull the shaft out the clutch side. The gear will come out.

Can't help you on the chamfer on the washer. Mine did not have a chamfer. The washer I got from Sean was incorrect. He said he would send the correct one if I wanted or, I could drill the hole out. I broke out the reamer and that did the trick.
 
OK I took a look at the PCW instructions. Now it's a little clearer. Still don't know which direction the chamfer goes....or if it even matters. Came up with another question though: I see the PCW instructions call for grinding away the casting nubs that retain the oil pump bolts if they come loose. Do these nubs need ground down on the Morley kit? Both kits shim the pump down, so I would assume the nubs need addressed?
 
OK I took a look at the PCW instructions. Now it's a little clearer. Still don't know which direction the chamfer goes....or if it even matters. Came up with another question though: I see the PCW instructions call for grinding away the casting nubs that retain the oil pump bolts if they come loose. Do these nubs need ground down on the Morley kit? Both kits shim the pump down, so I would assume the nubs need addressed?

No grinding in the pan with Seans kit.
 
Pay attention to which side of the inner gear has the concavity facing. It matters.
Thanks for the replies guys! I haven't gotten the inner gear off yet. I gotta bring home my bigger set of snap ring pliers from work....the ones I have here are too small and I don't EVEN want that clip to go flying! Sean's diagram says the recess goes towards the snap ring. Does the OEM gear have a recess?...Mine is either pointing away from the clip or it doesn't have one. I guess I will find out when I get it off!
 
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