Plug Wires - Time to ask the dum dum Questions...

[zippo6]

Ok, time to ask a couple questions....

I've never changed plug wires before and although it's a simple task I do have a couple questions. My motive for changing the wires is to see if it helps with the stumble I experience when the bike is hot and @ idle or low RPM (under 2K)

Coils, caps and wires are all stock. Likely have never been replaced.

1. Where the wire connects to the coil there is a screw on 'cap' that holds the wire on place by a rubber 'grommet' (for lack of proper term...). Can you reuse this rubber grommet? If so, how do you re-adhere it to the wire? Crazy Glue? lol
2. How do you remove the plug caps from the wire? Just pull them straight off?
3. As for cutting the new plug wire, any special tools or techniques? Or simply cut them to length using a pair of side cutter pliers?

I think that's it. If you know of any Gotcha's or lessons learned, do tell! :clapping:

Thanks!

 

[SpecOps13]

I have a 94 V-Max and haven't considered changing the plug wires?

I would suspect that the rubber gromet can be reused as long as it isn't glued to the existing wires. I think it's held in place by the screw on cap being shaped to pinch it when tightened. I would expect that the plug caps screw into the wires. As for cutting that wires to length, I believe a sharp set of cutters would work just fine.

I'm sure I don't have all of that right but I believe I do.

Good Luck,
Dave

I have a hesitation but it's when the bike is in neutral and I bring the rpm up very slowly. I don't notice it when the bike is under a load.

 

[jfeagins]

The symtoms you describe are exactly in line with what my bike experienced (off and on) for more time than I like to admit. Makes riding in traffic a PITA, to say the least.

For me, going through the charging system and improving charge @idle was the key. I re-did the ground (through the frame) on my R/R and soldered a bunch of wiring connections etc. Plus, I did the bigger battery mod. Knock on wood, I can now say it don't heat up and start stumbling any more.

On a dark night, or in a very dark garage (man cave), you could visually see the errant spark hopping around from various wires (usually the back two cylinders) to the valve cover. That WAS AFTER I installed brand new OEM wires, caps and two different sets of NGK plugs. At the time, I swore (lots) that I must have gotten rotten new wires, but they were performing exactly like the original set I had removed for the same reason.

I suspect the "black box" just gets grumpy and does weird stuff when it doesn't receive adequate 12.6v+ to work with.

Also, pay close attention to where the wires push into the coils. You can shorten up that end of the wire by 1/8" or so and be sure to get the new/tighter end pushed up into the coil COMPLETELY for a tight fit. It's too easy to get them in less than all the way and think they're in. That connection may well throw stuff out of whack too.

Just my 2 cents. For what it's really worth, keep the change.

 

[zippo6]

The symtoms you describe are exactly in line with what my bike experienced (off and on) for more time than I like to admit. Makes riding in traffic a PITA, to say the least.

For me, going through the charging system and improving charge @idle was the key. I re-did the ground (through the frame) on my R/R and soldered a bunch of wiring connections etc. Plus, I did the bigger battery mod. Knock on wood, I can now say it don't heat up and start stumbling any more.

On a dark night, or in a very dark garage (man cave), you could visually see the errant spark hopping around from various wires (usually the back two cylinders) to the valve cover. That WAS AFTER I installed brand new OEM wires, caps and two different sets of NGK plugs. At the time, I swore (lots) that I must have gotten rotten new wires, but they were performing exactly like the original set I had removed for the same reason.

I suspect the "black box" just gets grumpy and does weird stuff when it doesn't receive adequate 12.6v+ to work with.

Just my 2 cents. For what it's really worth, keep the change.

That's on my list as well, I figured new wires won't hurt anything. I've had them off the back 2 before and the ends of the wire were green.

 

[[email protected]]

Ok, time to ask a couple questions....

I've never changed plug wires before and although it's a simple task I do have a couple questions. My motive for changing the wires is to see if it helps with the stumble I experience when the bike is hot and @ idle or low RPM (under 2K)

Coils, caps and wires are all stock. Likely have never been replaced.

1. Where the wire connects to the coil there is a screw on 'cap' that holds the wire on place by a rubber 'grommet' (for lack of proper term...). Can you reuse this rubber grommet? If so, how do you re-adhere it to the wire? Crazy Glue? lol
2. How do you remove the plug caps from the wire? Just pull them straight off?
3. As for cutting the new plug wire, any special tools or techniques? Or simply cut them to length using a pair of side cutter pliers?

I think that's it. If you know of any Gotcha's or lessons learned, do tell! :clapping:

Thanks!

1. Yes, you can reuse the grommet. It is not adhered to the plug wire, it will slide right off
2. No, the plug caps do no slide right off, the screw off like a nut.
3. A good pair of side cutter or diagonals will work just fine for cutting the plug wire.

 

[RaWarrior]

Yes, the pin type coils are a compression fit, the wire is just held in by friction. The grommet slides off and on, and the coil's cap tightens down on this grommet, squeezing the wire to hold it in there.

While you're at it, you may consider the COP mod. There's a big thread about it in the "electrical" section. I just picked up a set of R6 coils (with harness) for less than $30 shipped off ebay. People that have done it report good results, the bike starts easier and had "crisper" throttle response. I had never paid it much attention since for some reason I assumed it would be a complex/expensive conversion, though it's anything but. Less than an hour, and usually under $50. Then you eliminate the stock coils and wires....never be an issue again.

 

[poppop]

the front 2 coils are in a tight spot i tried 8 mm and did not succed back to the old wires for now the rear is easy the front had me sweating get good wires good luck poppop

 

[MaxMidnight]

Put a small smear of silicon grease on the grommet when re assembling.

If you put it in dry (and we hate having it in dry don't we girls?) it tends to bind and makes it difficult to get the retainer fully tight.

 

[tugla]

di-electric grease works real good

 

[95spfldmax]

My motive for changing the wires is to see if it helps with the stumble I experience when the bike is hot and @ idle or low RPM (under 2K)

The symtoms you describe are exactly in line with what my bike experienced (off and on) for more time than I like to admit. Makes riding in traffic a PITA, to say the least.

For me, going through the charging system and improving charge @idle was the key.

Same here on fighting this problem for years too.......voltage increase and carb cleaning/syncing helped and increase in a/f screws outward all helped to mask the problem I believe......Keep me posted on those of you who have truely whooped this thing......Has anything been confirmed on doing the COP mod with an aftermarket ignitor and not blowing it up?? Or is that still unconfirmed?

 

[hexec]

I get the plug boots bouncing a spark here and there also. I noticed it when I was messing around and got shocked. The spark leak is real and I thought it was just me. Wires have been replaced twice but still leaks. Here's how I can confirm the leak. You run a ground wire up to the boot and brush it all around the plug boot and coil connection. In my case the leak only occurs around the rear plugs. I've taken the boot off and provided a good cleaning. I wanted it to be as oil free as possible without using harmful cleaning chemicals that might dissolve the rubber. That helped a lot. It still leaks but not as bad. Perhaps the rears are exposed to more heat. Don't know. I've got to try swapping boots to see if the problem moves with the boot .