Regulator/Rectifier Shindinguen FH001 vs Electrosport ESR279

[jeffwat]

Ive seen the thread on putting a Shindinguen FH001 voltage/regulator in the VMAX (1st gen). Re that thread, I have a regular air box, so would have to be creative with mounting.
Has anyone tried Electrosports ESR 279? It’s the same as the stock, but says it runs much cooler, with much more stable voltage.
Unfortunately, I can’t find volt/amp data on any of these units. Shindinguen makes later models, but I don’t want to over amp/volt my lead acid battery.
Any help appreciated, thanks

 

[Bill Seward]

I've got an SH775 Series unit in my '85. It fit under the seat where the rear coils were located before I did the COPS mod. A series regulator runs much cooler, and even after a long ride on a hot day, the regulator is barely warm.

 

[jeffwat]

Thanks, I looked at the SH 775. Where did you get the female connectors to attach the three stator wires, and the red and black +/- wires to the regulator?
Did you just use single readily available flat female connectors, or were you able to find a couple 3 way connectors?
Thanks, Jeff

 

[Bill Seward]

You can get the connectors on EBay or Amazon. Furukawa is the name of the connectors-they sell for about $12.00 for a set,if memory serves. Some guys just use push on connectors, and fill the spaces with silicon sealer. Just be damn sure the wires don't touch. The 3 white wires can connect in any order. I'd run the output wires directly to battery, using a fuse just in case of a problem. Be sure you get the polarity of the output wires right. Also, don't rely on crimping the connections. Solder everything, or use Posi lock connectors if you need to extend the white wires.

 

[one2dmax]

I usually don't bother with the mosfet conversions. The 96-07 finned units typically work just fine, bolt in place of the earlier versions (with longer bolts) and nothing to modify.

 

[jeffwat]

Ok. I’ve been looking around, here’s what I found, and thank you Shaun, I’ll take a look at the 96-07 regulator.
1. I believe my 1989 VMAX is rated at 9500 rpm max.
2. Charging system rated at 25 amps.
3. The Shindengen SH775 that Bill Seward installed, can do 50 amp peak, 30 amp continuous, from my searches.
My 1989 Vmax has few lights, accessories, so I understand only 25 amps.
4. The SH775 is a “SERIES” MOSFET, with 9000 rpm limit, and Bill says it shuts down. Bill, does it restart as rpm goes
below 9000?
5. A series R/R effectively open circuits when battery is fully charged and magnetic field in rotor causes high stator
AC voltages, which some say causes stator insulation to break down sooner.
6. The Shindengen FH0020 “SHUNT” MOSFET is rated at 30 amps. I DON’T KNOW RPM LIMIT. When battery is fully
charged, FH0020 dumps current to ground, so stator runs warmer than with a series R/R since it continues
generating amps flowing to ground, but avoids high open circuit stator voltages, like the SH 775.
7. Both are MOSFETS, which literature says they run cooler because they switch back and forth much faster than
non MOSFET (Old OEM) units. The slow switching causes switching resistance effects, which turns into heat
generation.

So, warmer, but more energy waste of FH0020, or higher stator voltage of SH775. And, what about rpm limit?
Pick your poison. Thoughts?

I’ve got itchy fingers, I’m going to do something. Any feedback helpful. Bill, thanks for Furukawa reference for
terminals.
Jeff

 

[Bill Seward]

I don't recall saying anything about a 9000 rpm shutdown. I've read on other sites that the unit works normally after a high rpm shutdown. Personally, I don't run that RPM very often.

I was impressed enough with the SH775 that I bought another one and replaced the perfectly working one in my Roadstar.

 

[jeffwat]

Pardon Bill, you’re of course right. It was “Jack” who owns ROADSTERCYCLE.com that said the SH 775 has a 9000 rpm limit. Same as you, I never get to 9000 rpm, so not of any concern. The FH0020 is about $50 less than th SH 775. Im going to think a little bit more about shunt vs series R/R, and buy one or the other. I’m satisfied, thanks for the help.

 

[Bill Seward]

Shunt regulators do get quite warm. The Series ones I use in my bikes generate almost no heat, in fact, both units are mounted under the seats of the bikes and even with almost no airflow, stay cool enough to lay your hand on, even after a hundred mile ride. I bought used units off EBay for $40.00 each. Power sports Superstore, if memory serves.

 

[CaptainKyle]

I usually don't bother with the mosfet conversions. The 96-07 finned units typically work just fine, bolt in place of the earlier versions (with longer bolts) and nothing to modify.

+ 1

 

[jeffwat]

OK. I sent a text to Jack of ROADSTERCYCLE.com, and he corrected several of my misconceptions. He’s been selling Shindengen kits for years, (11000+ of FH020AA). He corrected me as follows: ( I’d love to paste his email to me, but need to ask permission).

1. FH020AA has a peak current of 50 amps, 35 amps continuous (I’d said 30 amps.). He’s not aware of an RPM limit.
It is a MOSFET unit. It would be fine on my bike.
2. He said SH 775 was originally built for low RPM ATVs, not motorcycles. He quotes 9000 RPM limit, but issues actually
occur somewhere between 9000 and 10,000, so he picks 9000 to be conservative. He quotes rating at 27 amps.
The unit is also fine for my VMAX. This R/R definitely runs cool, and keeps stator cooler than the FH020AA.
3. Jack says SH 847 unit is a 50 amp unit, and he says it is of particular value for very high RPM bikes in keeping stator
much cooler. It’s much larger than FH020AA and SH775.
4. Surprise: He said the SH775 & 847 are indeed series R/Rs, but I was wrong in that they ARE NOT MOSFET
CONTROLLED R/Rs, THEY HAVE DIODES. In all his years of selling SH 775 and 847, he’s received no negative
feedback on stator insulation breakdown due to high voltage open circuit voltages, or other problems, so he feels
my concerns are not warranted. The stators run cooler.
5. The feedback he’s received from customers is the MOSFET FH0020AA R/R runs cooler than the SH 775 and 847
R/Rs, but they’re all very much cooler than the old OEMs.

I wanted to set the record straight, don’t want to leave the wrong information. I think I’ll save a few dollars and buy the FH020AA. I know enough for me.

Jeff.
PS: Shaun, I priced the 96-07 OEM R/R, and it was $230. While easier to install than the Shindengen R/Rs, I’m a fiddler, can’t wait to put in an FH020AA.
PS2: For technuts, the Vmax forum has a great, detailed thread in first generation Vmax, electrical, titled “how stators work”

 

[one2dmax]

I have new aftermarket OEM 96-07 units for $75