Rock hard clutch lever

[fullhouse]

Yeah love this forum!! Will donate for sure!! Who do I speak to?

 

[CrackerRican]

Yeah love this forum!! Will donate for sure!! Who do I speak to?

At the top there's a donate button. Your max is looking sweet & I think the mod monkey has bitten you

 

[fullhouse]

Thanx mate, bitten by the monkey for sure hahaha!!!

I use tapatalk on my phone so doesn't show me in normal Internet style lol
Will jump on the actual site and donate!!

Thank you all for helping a brother out
Hope I can repay the favour once iv had my max for a while and know more about it lol

 

[CrackerRican]

Thanx mate, bitten by the monkey for sure hahaha!!!

I use tapatalk on my phone so doesn't show me in normal Internet style lol
Will jump on the actual site and donate!!

Thank you all for helping a brother out
Hope I can repay the favour once iv had my max for a while and know more about it lol

After wrenching on it a few time you will be helping out other vmaxers alike,we're a tight knit group

 

[Fire-medic]

Now, if you find that you have a problem where you get no-resistance 1/2-way back, and then there is resistance, and pulling the lever fully to the bar doesn't release the clutch, you have most-likely a bad seal in either the master cyl, or the slave cyl. Secondary issues could be a bad joint at one of the banjos (the crush washers should be replaced when you disassemble the fittings, but there are alternatives. If the copper crush washers have ridges on them from their last use, you can try surface-sanding them down smooth. Some report success w/annealing them w/a propane torch and quenching them w/H2O. The goal is to get a smooth surface to enable a seal. Your local auto parts store should have packages of the hydraulic fitting washers, just take one to match. I've found the auto store ones are often quite a bit thicker than the stock Yamaha ones, not-enough to upset the alignment of the fluid passageways and the banjo bolt, but something to look-for). Rarely will you discover a bad hose, but it can happen. They can swell internally, allowing fluid to penetrate the plies of the hose, instead of going to move the pushrod. Another effect that may occur is the hose can collapse, and not-allow the release of pressure. The pushrod stays partially-activated-result is clutch slip. On the brake circuit side, a locked caliper/calipers.

I also found-out the hard way, one time I had a low level of brake fluid in the master cyl, and due to the angle I commonly left the handlebar, one of the master cyl holes in the bottom of the cyl was exposed, allowing infiltration of air overnight, and a resultant mushy-lever. To look at the sight glass, it appeared there was sufficient fluid showing, when I positioned the bars in the straight-ahead normal riding position, but when I actually placed the open-cap master cyl in the stationary/non-use position of the handlebars, I saw the hole exposed. A simple fix, add more fluid.

Also, change your fluids each riding season, it removes water along with the brake fluid and other contaminants, lessening the potential of corrosion internally. Prudence would dictate doing it before you store the bike for 6 months, so the water and contaminants cannot do their bad-deeds during the prolonged layoff. A bonus, in the spring, "ready-to-ride!"unk:

 

[fullhouse]

Ok problem time for the gurus lol
The clutch is great... When it's cold!
Once the bike is at operation temp the clutch slips and gets worse and worse as you ride
It's got a new clutch (genuine)and new oil motul 5100

 

[davesax36]

Ok problem time for the gurus lol
The clutch is great... When it's cold!
Once the bike is at operation temp the clutch slips and gets worse and worse as you ride
It's got a new clutch (genuine)and new oil motul 5100

I've had these exact symptoms twice. Try lowering the fluid level in the master just a bit. Also, I removed and reinstalled my aftermarket lever and it has fixed it. I have a suspicion that the pin for the master plunger was somehow misaligned in the barrel in the lever and was binding somehow. Do you have steel lines? They don't expand as much as the rubber ones and you might actually have too much fluid in the system to allow for expansion.

 

[fullhouse]

I'll go take some out now
Will keep ya posted
Thanx heaps

 

[davesax36]

I also cracked open the bleeder and let fluid just shoot out of there with the master reservoir all closed up. There was pressure built up somewhere. It was a combination of lever binding and too much fluid, I think.

 

[fullhouse]

Holy ****!
It was the lever... All good now bites like a monster!!!


Thank you heaps mate

 

[fullhouse]

I need to buy a lot of beer to shout out

 

[davesax36]

Dude. It's not just me! Glad it worked. I'm gonna top off my reservoir again now. I'm pretty sure there's no way to push too much fluid in there with a crappy syringe or gravity.

 

[Fire-medic]

I am wondering just what you believe it was with the lever. Are they stock levers and master?

Sometimes the pivot point of the lever needs grease or, if you're lazy, you can use some CRC or WD-40. Using grease upon disassembly is the correct way to do it, as it will last the longest.

Holy ****!
It was the lever... All good now bites like a monster!!!


Thank you heaps mate

 

[fullhouse]

It's got pazzo look alike levers, it was the leaver
I had to pull the pin out that goes onto the pushrod for the master, it was seized into the lever so I removed it, drilled out the hole alittle so it moved freely when fitted back in and presto

I had the beast back lol

 

[fullhouse]

These are the levers

 

[davesax36]

Mine are also fake pazzo, but for fjr masters. I think I should have just greased the pin. I use moly paste now.

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