Shift pedal spacing...

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i don't see any other indications of mine being dropped....

my old vmax.. this is the best pic i have of it, but it looks to be farther out...
 

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Any variation in the angle of the pivot point on the mounting bracket will significantly affect the distance of the shift arm from the engine. If you think the shift arm is too close to the engine take off the mounting bracket (held on the engine cover with 2 allen bolts) and adjust the angle of the pivot.
 
On the OEM parts page titled "Shift Shaft" part # 18 Yamaha part # 1FK-18128-00-00 simply called 'bracket'

i misread what you were saying... i thought u meant to tighten some of the bolts, but the actual middle gear cover bolts need to come off right?

thats interesting.. i didn't think the pedal can bend, maybe that bracket is easily bendable with enough force and all depends on the rider..

what do u think would be the best way to bend it back out? Just a vice and some pliers? I wonder if that will weaken it at all? I def don't want that breaking...

if i gotta replace it, it looks to be about 1/2 price as a pedal....
 
i misread what you were saying... i thought u meant to tighten some of the bolts, but the actual middle gear cover bolts need to come off right?

thats interesting.. i didn't think the pedal can bend, maybe that bracket is easily bendable with enough force and all depends on the rider..

what do u think would be the best way to bend it back out? Just a vice and some pliers? I wonder if that will weaken it at all? I def don't want that breaking...

if i gotta replace it, it looks to be about 1/2 price as a pedal....

That's correct, a couple of the cover bolts need to come off.

As for bending the bracket-it appears to be a hardened peice so prolly should be heated but I'm not sure 'bout that. Maybe placed face down and light tapping would do it. Shouldn't have to move very far to bring the shift arm away from the engine. :confused2:
 
That's correct, a couple of the cover bolts need to come off.

gotcha...

As for bending the bracket-it appears to be a hardened peice so prolly should be heated but I'm not sure 'bout that. Maybe placed face down and light tapping would do it. Shouldn't have to move very far to bring the shift arm away from the engine. :confused2:


hmm.. don't really have the tools to do that maybe in the meantime i can buy a cheap washer and put it on the inside of the pedal to keep it from moving toward the engine and replace the bracket once i get a chance...

can you believe from all the wrecked vmax's there isn't a single shift pedal one ebay? I can see not seeing a bracket, odd part, but there are about 10 - 12 brake pedals...
 
gotcha...




hmm.. don't really have the tools to do that maybe in the meantime i can buy a cheap washer and put it on the inside of the pedal to keep it from moving toward the engine and replace the bracket once i get a chance...

can you believe from all the wrecked vmax's there isn't a single shift pedal one ebay? I can see not seeing a bracket, odd part, but there are about 10 - 12 brake pedals...

Veebooster gave me an idea, why not do a variation of the rear axle washer swap? Take your shift arm off and file some material off the outboard faceing on the pivot, put a thin washer outboard and a thicker washer inboard. Net result would move the shift arm away from the engine w'out bending anything. It would be easy to do 'trial & error' till you got it where you want it.
 
Veebooster gave me an idea, why not do a variation of the rear axle washer swap? Take your shift arm off and <b> file some material off the outboard faceing on the pivot</b>, put a thin washer outboard and a thicker washer inboard. Net result would move the shift arm away from the engine w'out bending anything. It would be easy to do 'trial & error' till you got it where you want it.


file off the red? and get washers that match the OD and ID of part #19 and just change the thickness? (probably could actually just get 3 of them and put two inside and 1 outside)
 

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file off the red? and get washers that match the OD and ID of part #19 and just change the thickness? (probably could actually just get 3 of them and put two inside and 1 outside)

Thazzit!! Being alum. the material should come off easily.

Why there aren't any used ones? Prolly the first thing to get whacked in a crash! :biglaugh:

Also, keep the pivot point lubed after the fix.
 
Thazzit!! Being alum. the material should come off easily.

good to know. being ayoungin' still getting my tools in order.. what type of file do u recommend?

Why there aren't any used ones? Prolly the first thing to get whacked in a crash! :biglaugh:

i would agree, however, wouldn't you expect to be equal parts brake pedals/shift pedals? Unless people are THAT much more likely to go down on their left?

Also, keep the pivot point lubed after the fix.

you mean the shaft between the red outline i'm filling down? just some grease?
 
good to know. being ayoungin' still getting my tools in order.. what type of file do u recommend?



i would agree, however, wouldn't you expect to be equal parts brake pedals/shift pedals? Unless people are THAT much more likely to go down on their left?




you mean the shaft between the red outline i'm filling down? just some grease?


Any good mill file should do the trick.

Dunno?? Did you see lots of brake levers for sale? :ummm: :biglaugh: Mayhap they
both get bent!!


I just put a couple drops of engine oil on the pivot shaft on part # 18. It

works it's way under the shift arm and keeps it well lubed.
 
Any good mill file should do the trick.

Dunno?? Did you see lots of brake levers for sale? :ummm: :biglaugh: Mayhap they
both get bent!!


I just put a couple drops of engine oil on the pivot shaft on part # 18. It

works it's way under the shift arm and keeps it well lubed.

yea, on ebay there are maybe 10/12 brake pedals, not one shift pedal. All from the salvage guys... weird.. more of a rhetorical question anyways...

and yea thats what i meant, i just refered to it as the cylinder on the pedal instead of the shaft

thanks danny, NG and all!
 
Should be lots of room on the shaft to add a washer to the inside. That will move your shifter out a bit and take out the slop giving you a better feel. If you go too thick tho it'll bind. Been there....:eusa_dance:

Dale #2592
 
Should be lots of room on the shaft to add a washer to the inside. That will move your shifter out a bit and take out the slop giving you a better feel. If you go too thick tho it'll bind. Been there....:eusa_dance:

Dale #2592

should still be more than enough room for where the pedal clog attaches to the connector rod there right?
 
Wow, you guys are really going to town here. Not sure if it's been mentioned yet but the shifter arm does not like being bent more then once. If you do decide to bend it you will need to heat it up. But, if you have to have more clearance there is a much simpler way. Just add one or two washers behind the main mounting bracket where it bolts to the middle gear cover. The linkage has swivels and will handle the increased angle just fine. No grinding and messing around of any kind.

Sean Morley
 
Wow, you guys are really going to town here. Not sure if it's been mentioned yet but the shifter arm does not like being bent more then once. If you do decide to bend it you will need to heat it up. But, if you have to have more clearance there is a much simpler way. Just add one or two washers behind the main mounting bracket where it bolts to the middle gear cover. The linkage has swivels and will handle the increased angle just fine. No grinding and messing around of any kind.

Sean Morley


hahaha.. there we got coming up with all sorts of filing n whatnot..

good idea as well sean... however, i'd need more of a spacer than a washer, since it looks like the top of the bracket already has a built in spacer to deal with the indent on the middle gear cover...

agreed?
 

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