Stuck in first

[one2dmax]

You should be able to vice grip it out with that much stud sticking out.

 

[Fire-medic]

Straight-jaw 10" Vise-grip, curved jaw doesn't hold as-well. Or, you could use a stud wrench though having to buy one that would fit may be expensive and hard to come-by, if a Vise-grip would work.

 

[Jhbox13]

Thanks for the help guys. I got a small butane torch/soldering iron and some nuts just in case. Gave it just a bit of heat and it started coming right on out. I just love how one darn bolt can bring my whole project to a standstill!

I cant wait to run this bike ragged, thank for all your help gents!

 

[Eugene Brad]

Thanks for the help guys. I got a small butane torch/soldering iron and some nuts just in case. Gave it just a bit of heat and it started coming right on out. I just love how one darn bolt can bring my whole project to a standstill!

I cant wait to run this bike ragged, thank for all your help gents!

Perseverance... nice job. It feels good to get over those hiccups. Bolt extraction is one of those things that can really put the brakes on a project if it goes wrong.

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

 

[sdt354]

Thanks for the help guys. I got a small butane torch/soldering iron and some nuts just in case. Gave it just a bit of heat and it started coming right on out. I just love how one darn bolt can bring my whole project to a standstill!

I cant wait to run this bike ragged, thank for all your help gents!

Good to here it worked out.

 

[Jhbox13]

OK gents, looks like I've still got a question or two

Put it all back together and now my clutch lever feels extremely tight/heavy.

Also, though I am in gear it would appear that the engine is still in nuetral, as it still rolls freely.

When I started it up it did ok, but when I clutched and shifted to first it acted as though I had dumped the clutch.

I think maybe I tighten the retaining bolts on the pressure plate too much, I'm going to give that a try but I figured that I would ask as well

 

[Fire-medic]

Do you have an aftermarket pressure plate?

I believe the clutch screws are shouldered, so you cannot overtighten them, unless you overtorque them, easy to do as they call-for 5.8 ft. lb. torque for the stock diaphragm clutch.

Maybe air got in the line when the clutch was apart, if someone squeezed the clutch lever. You might want to check the small clutch master cyl hole, clear it with a pin, and see what kind of resistance you have, you might need to bleed the clutch. If that's the case, I recommend the 'reverse-bleed' method, far-quicker and easier than the two-person "squeeze and hold the lever to the bar while I loosen the slave bleeder, and let it puke a few cc of brake fluid" method.

If the small master cyl hole is plugged, you can get a very firm lever, even to the point of little or no-movement, where you normally should be able to move the clutch lever to the bar w/moderate resistance. This can also happen to a blocked hydraulic hose, which won't move any fluid, or allow pressure to subside, when released. Deterioration of the inner hose requires a new hose, to safely-ride.

 

[Jhbox13]

Do you have an aftermarket pressure plate?

I believe the clutch screws are shouldered, so you cannot overtighten them, unless you overtorque them, easy to do as they call-for 5.8 ft. lb. torque for the stock diaphragm clutch.

Maybe air got in the line when the clutch was apart, if someone squeezed the clutch lever. You might want to check the small clutch master cyl hole, clear it with a pin, and see what kind of resistance you have, you might need to bleed the clutch. If that's the case, I recommend the 'reverse-bleed' method, far-quicker and easier than the two-person "squeeze and hold the lever to the bar while I loosen the slave bleeder, and let it puke a few cc of brake fluid" method.

If the small master cyl hole is plugged, you can get a very firm lever, even to the point of little or no-movement, where you normally should be able to move the clutch lever to the bar w/moderate resistance. This can also happen to a blocked hydraulic hose, which won't move any fluid, or allow pressure to subside, when released. Deterioration of the inner hose requires a new hose, to safely-ride.

Not sure what you mean by "the small mastwecyclinder hole" but I'll take a look. I've the clutch back off, and I noticed that the pushrod doesn't seem to be siting flush down where it goes into the shaft. From memory it seems like it should...

 

[Jhbox13]

Took it apart, put it back together, seems to work.

Take it down the road a bit, stop to do some carb adjustments with it running in neutral and it's acting like the clutch is still engaged when I put it in first and release clutch. Pretty annoying I've got to say, but I'm sure I'm doing some thing wrong here.

So I have a torque wrench that only goes down to 20, how badly do I need to go get another wrench, or should I just be able to hand tighten the pressure plate bolts?

 

[[email protected]]

Shouldn't be an issue to hand tighten. I've done it numerous times on many machines. Spec is only 7nM IIRC. I always tighten up in a criss cross pattern till the bolts are bottomed. Then go around and give it a tiny bit of torque.

I've never heard of anyone saying one of these bolts worked loose. I've heard many say they broke a bolt from over tightening.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Jhbox13]

Well I stuck it back together and now it seems to work. Go figure. I think the ball bearing behind the pushrod was bound up or somethimg, because after I pulled it out and put it back in the clutch seemed to return to normal.

I took it for a spin, and to my surprise I get a loud grinding noise at high rpm. Sounds a lot like that sound you get when your starter is slipping. Any well know vmax defects that may result in a grinding/popping noise when going through the gears at a highly motivated speed?

 

[Fire-medic]

Sounds like you better stop riding, and disassemble your recent work. You need to check what you did. It sounds like you have a mis-assembled component, or more.

Well I stuck it back together and now it seems to work. Go figure. I think the ball bearing behind the pushrod was bound up or somethimg, because after I pulled it out and put it back in the clutch seemed to return to normal.

I took it for a spin, and to my surprise I get a loud grinding noise at high rpm. Sounds a lot like that sound you get when your starter is slipping. Any well know vmax defects that may result in a grinding/popping noise when going through the gears at a highly motivated speed?

 

[Jhbox13]

All I have either with recently wad the clutch and shift segment, neither of which have a lot of gear on gear contact. This sounds a lot like gears slipping. I'm not saying you're wrong in any way, but like I said, it reminds me of the sound that the starter gear makes when it slips.

 

[Fire-medic]

FYI: I am not a professional mechanic. It's just that when this noise wasn't present before you did the work, and now you have it, I would have a high index of suspicion about recently-completed work.

Maybe send Sean Morley an email and see what his opinion is. He's very helpful, and he sells new and used parts to help us stay on the road.

I just would take a look at what's been done recently, since it's after that when you started hearing this.

All I have either with recently wad the clutch and shift segment, neither of which have a lot of gear on gear contact. This sounds a lot like gears slipping. I'm not saying you're wrong in any way, but like I said, it reminds me of the sound that the starter gear makes when it slips.

 

[Jhbox13]

The bike wasn't running when I got it, so it may be something that developed with the previous owner.

 

[Jhbox13]

Took it out today to duplicate the issue, it's actually not as much a high rpm issue as it is a stress on the engine issue. What I mean is that when increasing speed steadily, even at high rpm, there is no issue. When you really get at it though it will knock and stutter just a bit. less so at high gear.

My bet is my cam chain tension. I've looked around during a bit but can't find where the tensioner is. I read that this is decently common in Gen 1, but maybe soneon can give their opinion.

 

[Fire-medic]

http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/owners_manual.pdf

 

[Jhbox13]

The owners manual doesn't cover cam chain temsion, unless I'm just missing it entirely. I'll take a peek in the service manual though thanks

 

[one2dmax]

It's not that common. Pretty rare for cam chain tensioners to fail on these bikes. Hard to say what is causing the noise you're trying to describe.

 

[Jhbox13]

Actually chain slip doesn't fit now that I think of it. If it was my timing would have gotten progressively worse, which it hasn't...