The IGNITECH TCI thread

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Gary and electric experts here...

I was thinking and came up with something that seemed to be a good idea but i don't know if its doable with this gear. I was thinking of a auto shifting system trigged by RPM (programmable or use the built in rev limiter for that). Just like the shift light, using that very same input to trigger a shifter and kill the ignition in the process. Eventhough not needing the shift light (makes no sense for auto shifting) and trying to get the RPM value either from the TCI or from another source like speedo. Get that into triggering a kill switch (its built on the TCI, 2 inputs for killing - clutch input) and getting that same input to operate a shifter, either air or electric operated. This is specially useful for whos using a lockup clutch.
Is this doable? Will the features on the TCI be able to do this or similar? What do you guys think?
 
Sounds OK to me.
It might need to have a tiny little separate timer circuit that kills RPM for a set amount of time. ie TCI rev limit light wire activates an electronic switch that is connected to the clutch switch input and kills ignition for .25 seconds (or whatever). The same circuit could be set to trigger your shifter as well.
I do some electronics infrequently when I need to, so I could help with that. It could be made to work exactly like a perfectly timed stab of the clutch.
A completely separate programmable box to do the whole job is possible, but not really needed for what you are saying.
It doesn't sound like rocket science.
 
Yeah i thought of the same. The TCI has programmable kill time (its labeled as clutch input or similar - im not on my laptop). I don't remember which pin on the connector now but its on the software and its programmable time wise. That input can be coming from the rev limiter output to activate the ignition kill and a relay for the shifter (either electric or pneumatic), that can also be done in parallel with the clutch switch for those who don't have a shifter or a lockup (unable to disengage the clutch due to lockup excessive pressure).
 
Yeah i thought of the same. The TCI has programmable kill time (its labeled as clutch input or similar - im not on my laptop). I don't remember which pin on the connector now but its on the software and its programmable time wise. That input can be coming from the rev limiter output to activate the ignition kill and a relay for the shifter (either electric or pneumatic), that can also be done in parallel with the clutch switch for those who don't have a shifter or a lockup (unable to disengage the clutch due to lockup excessive pressure).

I just had a look and there is a clutch master input or an inverted clutch master input, so it sounds like you can use software to select if the input is GND or +ve. All good, one wire, that's it! :biglaugh:
 
So all i need to do is take the wire from the TCI and then take it to the clutch switch and then to GND or +V? The clutch switch closes the circuit when lever is pressed... This is for the manual operation of the ignition kill. In case of auto use, and correct me if im wrong just need the rev limiter to shunt to the clutch signal input and when reaching the rev limiter setting it will signal the clutch kill and allow for power shifting (it would kill nonetheless for rev limiting though). Is there any other input we can use besides the rev limiter to actuate the clutch ignition kill? Im not running V-Boost so probably i can use that one right? In that case i can use the clutch ignition kill independent from the rev limiter. Like rev limiter working at 9500 and the clutch kill at 9000 for auto shifting, in other cases like no lockup or no shifter just use the clutch switch... Am i missing something here? looks doable and simple...
 
I was thinking that you weren't going to be using the clutch lever, but have an automated gearchange. Is there a need to have the clutch switch connected?

I'd think it might make sense to use both switch inputs then. The second one for when you manually clutch because that probably wouldn't be timed to shut off for the same amount of time, and you wouldn't want to auto trigger an upshift when you want to shift down.
 
I've been talking about two options manual and auto shifting, the clutch switch is just a way to touch the lever and make the kill without pressing the lever all the way in (its to avoid an extra switch for kill on power shifting like the normal shifter systems that have a shift button on the handlebar). I'll most likely won't be able to use my clutch due to lock-up use. Yes this system needs a master arm. I need to look it over. I'll grab the TCI and software this week and will get more acquainted with it...
 
Gary and electric experts here...

I was thinking and came up with something that seemed to be a good idea but i don't know if its doable with this gear. I was thinking of a auto shifting system trigged by RPM (programmable or use the built in rev limiter for that). Just like the shift light, using that very same input to trigger a shifter and kill the ignition in the process. Eventhough not needing the shift light (makes no sense for auto shifting) and trying to get the RPM value either from the TCI or from another source like speedo. Get that into triggering a kill switch (its built on the TCI, 2 inputs for killing - clutch input) and getting that same input to operate a shifter, either air or electric operated. This is specially useful for whos using a lockup clutch.
Is this doable? Will the features on the TCI be able to do this or similar? What do you guys think?

Although I have not played with the option yet, I think 1 of the 2 OUTPUT options of the ingitech software would do what you want. Screenshot attached, looks like 'special' would activate an output on both RPM+TPS, where a quick flip of throttle could be the shift activation trigger. The other option 'shift light' is just activated at RPM.

Think I would drive a relay coil with the TCI output, and use multiple relay contacts to drive clutch, shift, and a blocking INPUT programmed for 'clutch' to block ingition during shift. Would also be easy the add time delay to relay coil if necessary.
 

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I've been talking about two options manual and auto shifting, the clutch switch is just a way to touch the lever and make the kill without pressing the lever all the way in (its to avoid an extra switch for kill on power shifting like the normal shifter systems that have a shift button on the handlebar). I'll most likely won't be able to use my clutch due to lock-up use. Yes this system needs a master arm. I need to look it over. I'll grab the TCI and software this week and will get more acquainted with it...

I'm a complete novice with the gear you are using.
Here's what I see.

The TCI manual says
"Output for GEAR SHIFT LIGHT
Maximal current is 5 A (lamp max. 50 W). Revolution for gearshift light is set by software TCIP4.EXE.
One outlet of gearshift light should be connected to connector (12) and other to switched +12 V."

From this I would say output from connector 12 would be GND, and strong enough (5 Amp) to drive a relay.

From the manual
"Switching inputs 1 and 2.
Unit has two multiuse switching inputs. These inputs can initialize some function (for example KILL switch,
CLUTCH MASTER, blocking for side stand switch ...) One outlet of first switch should be connected to
connector (8) and other one should be connected to GND (14). One outlet of second switch should be connected
to connector (19) and other one should be connected to GND (14). Required function can be set by software
TCIP4.EXE."

So, you can wire the gearshift light output directly to either pin 8 or 19, and this would be a pretty quick kill when the shift light RPM is hit.

The relay you use would have the earth side connected to pin 12. It would have a slight mechanical delay, so the gearchange would happen slightly after the TCI kill. This would be a consideration for your design. Maybe you want that, maybe it's just a waste of time. :biglaugh:

With the clutch switch, I'd say wire one side to earth. That way you can connect the other side to pin 8 or 19. If you want to connect both the shift light and the clutch switch to the same input pin, then you need to bear in mind that the clutch switch would then be triggering your relay at the same time. I don't know if that is what you want. If you wanted the 2 actions to be separate then one goes to pin 8 and one goes to pin 19.

Bear in mind that the "Clutch switch inverted" input would be a facility to use pin 8 or 19 to trigger with +12v, which might make the design easier depending on what you do.
 
Although I have not played with the option yet, I think 1 of the 2 OUTPUT options of the ingitech software would do what you want. Screenshot attached, looks like 'special' would activate an output on both RPM+TPS, where a quick flip of throttle could be the shift activation trigger. The other option 'shift light' is just activated at RPM.

Think I would drive a relay coil with the TCI output, and use multiple relay contacts to drive clutch, shift, and a blocking INPUT programmed for 'clutch' to block ingition during shift. Would also be easy the add time delay to relay coil if necessary.

The kill time delay can be programmed on the TCI on the clutch kill tab/option.
 
I'm a complete novice with the gear you are using.
Here's what I see.

The TCI manual says
"Output for GEAR SHIFT LIGHT
Maximal current is 5 A (lamp max. 50 W). Revolution for gearshift light is set by software TCIP4.EXE.
One outlet of gearshift light should be connected to connector (12) and other to switched +12 V."

From this I would say output from connector 12 would be GND, and strong enough (5 Amp) to drive a relay.

From the manual
"Switching inputs 1 and 2.
Unit has two multiuse switching inputs. These inputs can initialize some function (for example KILL switch,
CLUTCH MASTER, blocking for side stand switch ...) One outlet of first switch should be connected to
connector (8) and other one should be connected to GND (14). One outlet of second switch should be connected
to connector (19) and other one should be connected to GND (14). Required function can be set by software
TCIP4.EXE."

So, you can wire the gearshift light output directly to either pin 8 or 19, and this would be a pretty quick kill when the shift light RPM is hit.

The relay you use would have the earth side connected to pin 12. It would have a slight mechanical delay, so the gearchange would happen slightly after the TCI kill. This would be a consideration for your design. Maybe you want that, maybe it's just a waste of time. :biglaugh:

With the clutch switch, I'd say wire one side to earth. That way you can connect the other side to pin 8 or 19. If you want to connect both the shift light and the clutch switch to the same input pin, then you need to bear in mind that the clutch switch would then be triggering your relay at the same time. I don't know if that is what you want. If you wanted the 2 actions to be separate then one goes to pin 8 and one goes to pin 19.

Bear in mind that the "Clutch switch inverted" input would be a facility to use pin 8 or 19 to trigger with +12v, which might make the design easier depending on what you do.

I think you got what i was thinking about. For auto shifting the shift light output can trigger the momentary kill (time to be programmed on software) on pin 8 or 19 and the relay for the shifter. For manual shifting you can just use pin 8 or 19 with the clutch master switch or other handlebar switch to momentary kill the ignition when powershifting by foot. That looks to work for me, i just don't know the voltage on the shift light output and if that is compatible with the inputs 8 and 19. If so we just need to shunt the shift light output to one of them, the same applies for the relay. Usually a shift light has three wires (12V, GND and RPM sensor), i don't know why they say the shift light has to be wired to the outlet pin 12 and to 12V.
 
i just don't know the voltage on the shift light output and if that is compatible with the inputs 8 and 19. If so we just need to shunt the shift light output to one of them, the same applies for the relay. Usually a shift light has three wires (12V, GND and RPM sensor), i don't know why they say the shift light has to be wired to the outlet pin 12 and to 12V.


Yes, compatible, they all work on GND.
When they say "shift light" they mean you can use any light bulb. Anything! So for a 12v light bulb you wire one side to 12v, and the other side goes to pin 12 (which will switch to GND). :biglaugh:
Of course, instead of a light bulb, you connect a relay the same way.
The inputs on pin 8 and 19 accept a switch connected to GND, so it works.

They made it easy! :biglaugh:
 
Great!... It seems i'll be getting my soldering iron and some terminals... LOL. Im also installing an alarm with remote start and immobilizer so its kind of a mess right now... LOL
 
The kill time delay can be programmed on the TCI on the clutch kill tab/option.
True, you can set igntion cutout delay here, but you may also need a delay on the TCI OUTPUT to allow time enough for the clutch and shift actuators to do their jobs!
 
You can always program that on the TCI. The shift light gives the signal for ignition kill on pins 8 or 19 and also triggers the shifter relay. The TCI when it gets the signal on pins 8 or 19 has the delay programmed on it and that delay should be what is needed for shifting process. One can always use pin 8 for manual use of shifter and 19 for auto shifting with different timings for different use... For manual use instead of getting the signal for killing from the shift light (pin 12) it can get it from a handlebar switch such as clutch switch, so if you want to use it manually when you get to the RPMs desired (whichever they are), press the kill switch or fan the clutch and shift, the switch will inform the TCI to kill the ignition for the programmed time that should be enough for you to power shift by foot. In auto use it will shift (using either electric or air operated shifter) when the RPMs reach the shift light programmed setting that will send the signal via pin 12 to pin 8 or 19 and to the shifter relay, the time that the shifter relay will take to close and trigger the physical shifter/actuator will be in theory more than the TCI needs to kill the ignition via pin 8 or 19. It can even be set pin 8 for manual use and pin 19 for auto use for instance... Imagination is the limit... LOL
 
Hi all again
Im about to start fiddling with my ignitech and so far i have what i believe to be an equivalent to stock curves ign file. Im certain that most of you already started to play around with the files to get to that cherry point you are looking for so what i'd ask of you is to post here the files that you think are working well for you as well as the configuration of your engines/carbs/compression (pistons vs rods)/exhaust (slip-ons or full). Something in the line of the example below...

1 - Stock bore engine with stock carbs and stock exhaust and the file that is working for me is...
2 - Stock bore engine with DJ stage 7 carbs (with or without V-Boost) and Hindle slip-ons, the file is...
3 - 1327cc bore engine with DJ stage 7 carbs and full marks exhaust, the file is....
4 - all of the above and NOS installed the file is...
5 - all of the above and supercharger installed the file is... etc... etc...

Im hoping to build a library with the files so everyone can chime in in order to fine tune the files for best performance for each configuration possible... So every file is available and everyone can pick them up and optimize them as best as possible and repost here... What do you guys think?
 
Great idea! Sorry, but I got nothing yet.
If I do find anything good I will post it, for sure!
 
What file are you using? The standard one Gary sent with the Servo mod for V-Boost?
 
Gary
Do you have any files that may be eligible for this?


Only ones I would have that would be related to VMax guys would be the two I sent out with TCI I handled & what is in my bile now.

Mine is a 1300 block, milled .040" at block/head surface.
VMax heads & cams from a 97 bike
150 main jets. 35mm VMax jetted carbs otherwise (originally from Venture, but jets changed, identical otherwise to VMax)
Marks 4-2-2 collector that does not have the right & left banks tied like the VMax does. Dyno run at Thunder had fairly wide open mufflers on.
VBoost tied into TCI as controller
VMax air box with K&N
VMax/FJR final drive
VMax 15" rear rim

I will put the 5 files I have in a zip file & attach.

2 each of the V80 & V88 version and one in my bike now in V88 format. Mine includes working VBoost settings for TCI control of VBoost.

All of these files are a work in progress.

Gary
 

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