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Hi Rick,

It ran a couple of mid 8's 170+... needs a bigger sneaker and a 3 speed transmission. It's a tuning nightmare otherwise. Spent a lot of time like this pic and figured I'd park it till that can happen. Gonna detune it and try again this year. Hey need to get that seat over to you if you still want to give it a go... just want to take some padding out of the back rest and recover it.

VMAXWEELIE.jpg
 
Sweet bike Gary! I always try to keep at least the back tire on the ground though! So what are you thinking for crankcase ventilation? The Factory location is not going to work out so hot I dont think.
 
Hi Robert,

The factory crankcase ventilation just plain sucks for anything other than a stock application. Just ask anybody that's running a larger displacement 1500+ engine. Why would the engineers put the crankcase vent so low on the engine? In the middle of the two cylinder banks... a lot of the misting has to do with the oil pan design in my opinion. So I made a billet pan and oil pickup for the dragbike that puts the oil level below the spinning counterweights of the crank and the pickup further back in the pan... that solved most of the problem. Here's a pic... the fitting to the left is the return for the oil coming from the turbo.

Vmax_oil_pan.jpg

Another thing I did was to move the vent higher in the engine. After doing the mechanical stuff for the fuel injection and mounting the cam sensor. I found that if the valve covers are cleaned properly... the aluminum welds quite well.

Sensor1.jpg

Creating a couple of vent fittings (front and back) in this area... then from there off to some hoses and a small catch tank. That kind of setup would go a long way in helping with that oil blow out problem... still using the stock oil pan. Just like a V8 :hmmm:

More later
 
Thanks for the input, It I appears that I will be tig welding some fitting into each valve cover and running hoses up to a aluminum catch can. I am hoping I can make an intake horn and filter as well that I can hide up under the lid. I want to keep this bike looking as stock as possible with what I am doing. People already under estimate this bike severely so I would like to keep that going!
 
For filler ? I usually use 4043 does the 5356 match better when welding on the cast pieces? Was planning on using 6061 for metal.
 
4043 is a good general purpose rod. I usually use it as well... but for some reason it gave me a hard time with that cast material. Started getting some of that black smegma in the weld pool. When I switched over to 5356 it took to liking it. Let me know how you make out please. I have a set of polished covers I'm going to do it to and plan to have them anodized... the 5356 will take the color the 4043 will turn a dull gray.
 
Will do Gary. I gotta order some stainless filler rod too, so I will throw a pound of 5356 on there as well and try it out. It usually works the other way for me with getting the black floaters in the puddle with 5356 but that has been welding 6061 as well. The cast probably is a closer match to the harder material I would think anyhow. Waiting on my box of goodies from Mark at marks exhaust and then I will be tearing the poor ol girl down and getting to it.
 
That would be it, but I wouldn't do the buy it now....
Offer him $50 shipped.... I'm not sure how much that pulley will cost to fix, you will need some new parts for the accel pump, etc. Those pulley's don't just break... I'm guessing it was dropped or mishanled so be careful. You can find them in good usable condition for $100 to $120. Any maybe you can get away with this thing being pretty usable..... ya just never know.

Good luck!

Jeff

Here is a link to the manual:

http://www.outlawdragbike.com/search.php?searchid=255482
 
Ask him for some more pics. One showing the the damage to the pulley. For some reason the throttle cable bracket is bass akwards... maybe older model?

$(KGrHqF,!nkE8VNZy--0BPVE,Mssnw~~60_58.JPG



Shiny new

$(KGrHqV,!h0E8KMe(SSSBPKcSZQzuw~~60_12.JPG
 
Thanks foar the input guys. I did some checking Jeff and that piece is about 28 bucks. I have been watching these pretty close for the past 3 weeks and anything used has been going over 200 bucks. Hopefully I didnt get screwed or else I am going to have an expensive paperweight. Gary that is weird looking at the picture because it is on diff sides there. But the Mikuni parts break down I looked at showed the throttle setup on the side as that used one. Maybe they are a touch different between years or maybe for a diff application? We will see in A week here what happens I guess! Thanks again, without you guys I would more than likely not even be attempting this.
 
Ok, as Gary is finishing up the intake portion of the project we were talking about a few more "mods" that need to be made to the bike and how we were going to go about those mods. One is the oil return line. I think we are going to be either machining/spot-facing the stator cover or welding directly to the cover. I can get either the machining or welding done if everyone wants to send their covers to me but I guess it depends on what everyone wants (machining or welding). If we machine it, we may not need to repaint the covers (assuming the machining will not chip the paint). And machining will also allow us to plug the hole if the turbo setup is ever removed. We could weld on a hose barb for a lack of a better term and if the turbo is removed, it could be another vent hose.

While our bikes are down (with the stator covers removed) we may want to look at adding some breathers to our valve covers. Then we can just run the hoses to a puke tank somewhere on the bike (maybe under the faux take if there is room that is away from the heat from the turbo).

The other big component left to finish up is the exhaust portion of the project. Does anyone know of a good person to replicate the system that Gary is going to fab up? I think Gary is planning on doing 1 and from there we can have copies made.

Lets start the discussions now and keep the ball rolling. Please let me know what everyone is thinking and if you know of anyone willing to help us out.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Jeff I was talking with mark from mark's exhaust the other night when ordering my exhaust parts and talked a bit about having something produced. He said if I could send him a prototype he could make a jig and make the exhausts.
 
Jeff I was talking with mark from mark's exhaust the other night when ordering my exhaust parts and talked a bit about having something produced. He said if I could send him a prototype he could make a jig and make the exhausts.

Now we're talking!!!!!! He may be the perfect guy for the job!!!!!

Update.....
I just spoke with Mark and he is definately interested in helping us out! I asked him what limitations he has with stainless, and he said if we are using either 1 3/8" or 1 1/2" he can get a 2" CL bend radius so that is pretty tight. And just to make sure... we all want the exhaust to just dump from the turbo... no mufflers right?? The trubo itself knocks down the sound a lot!



I think the machining will be best as well, but will prob cost a little more. As far as the oil fill location, I know we want the shortest least restrictive route possible. Gary will have to chime in on that one.
 
You want the 1 5/8" od minimum if possible which I think is his standard pipe material (probably called the 1 1/2" stuff). I have no problem with him making them!

I have covers I can use on an exchange basis for the guys too! I know on the circle track engine we have welded in a bung for a regular oil fill cap. Makes filling it easier too! BUT, i'm easy in the long run!

If we are going to have the intakes off (which we will) could we not modify the PCV cover?

Sean
 
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