TURBOVMAX
Well-Known Member
Well, if Mike, Sean, and I all have covers that we can use for the next month or so, then it looks like we may only need 1 cover. (Gary, are you doing your own cover, or do you need yours done as well?) I have a local guy that has done a fair amount of fabrication for me... he has a knee mill, lathe, full engine machining center. His name is Tony Stewart and he builds stock car chassies (his name is a little ironic) and he has raked my frame, done some swing arm modifications for me, and is a pretty good welder..... plus he is pretty cheap!!!!!! Gary, if you can send me a part number for the bung that you are wanting to use, I'll get a few on order.
Do we want to remove the stators from the cover before any machining/welding is done? I know some of the philips head screws can be a bear to get out at times.
Lets keep up the communication and we'll see if we can't get this taken care of ASAP.
Thanks,
Jeff
I'm all set with a cover Jeff... going to drain back down to the billet pan. I would like to have one of the modified stator covers sent to me. Going to try to bring the exhaust plumbing in real close to the engine... don't want to find that I didn't leave enough clearance in that area for the hose etc.
You should take the stator out of the covers before the weld job. I'd bring them all down to shop and have them glass beaded before you have the bungs welded to them. Then you can have them painted, powder coated, chromed or polished afterwards. The welder will thank you and charge you less if the covers are very clean... no oil in the material.
The stator screws will come out easy if you use a (hammer type) hand impact driver... probably most of you have one. If you don't have one... there are plenty of them out there http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...=hand+impact+driver&_sacat=See-All-Categories
The best place to purchase the fittings/hose is Speedway Motors... best prices. Here's the direct link for fittings... part number is (link) Item #: 6177206 That's AN6