I don't recall what you've done to this point. If you already did it just say-so.
Did you check the slide diaphragm? Is the ribbed edge (
for comfort!) of the diaphragm in the recess of the carb body properly? I've disassembled carbs before and found a careless re-assembly crimped the diaphragm out-of-place. Also, carefully-inspect the diaphragm for any holes, including rips, tears, or pinholes. Hold it up-to a light and carefully stretch the diaphragm to see if you spot any perforations.
Have you checked the intake gaskets and donuts on that cyl for leaks, by spraying some starting fluid on the airbox donuts, the carbs to VBoost manifold, and the VBoost to cyl head attachment points? Each has a gasket or a rubber piece/donut which could be interfering with your vacuum to that cyl.
Popping back is often a sign of a lean condition. A lean condition can be caused by a clogged pilot jet, or a poorly-adjusted air bleed screw, or the same, having a torn o-ring on it. The complete air bleed assembly is inexpensive, I keep a few on-hand. Part #22
When you spritz water on that exhaust header, the water should immediately vaporize. If it sizzles and drips, you have a poorly-firing cyl. Of course if you have a thermal sensing IR gun, you can get actual temperatures of each cyl, and all four should be pretty-close to one another. One or more >100 degrees difference, there's a problem. Something's causing that cyl to not fire consistently, the large temperature disparity of the exhaust header pipes is proof of that.
Checking the plugs, move that spark plug to another location, see what happens. If the 'problem' moves with the component, that's the problem component. You could do the same thing with coil wires & caps. If the plug wire conductor is green-colored, trim it back until you reach a bright, shiny metal conductor.
Just so we're speaking of the same cylinder: