I intend to solve the issue... just waiting for parts to show up. No, I am not happy about the cost involved but I am very satisfied to have found and resolved a variety of other issues along the way.
Apparently, finding 93 and up fork braces are like finding 4 leaf clovers at the end of the rainbow. I love the additional options the 93 and up forks offer regarding brakes. I also love being able to ditch the air crossover tube!
Your efforts are commendable and deserve to bear fruit.
I've come to this thread relatively late and given the number of posts it is difficult to keep tabs on what you have done so far and what was the result.
I've attached what I hope is a fair summary on what's been tried over the years (and yes, I know I should probably get out more).
I'm hoping it will prove useful for anyone wanting to see what you have tried.
Some questions:
- In post #1 you say you have an OEM screen. Is this still on the bike and if so have you tried running without it?
- Do you still have the OEM handlebars? Have you tried lower bars which will move you and the centre of mass forward.
- What size/ profile tyres are fitted and what pressures do you run them at.? How do they compare with OE? (110/ 90-18 & 150/ 90-15 and 33/ 33 psi for loads up to 90kg and 33/ 36 psi over that). Have you run them at these pressures?
Some observations: Have you measured and set the static sag - the front should be between between 25 and 35 mm depending on how you like the feel. Regardless of spring type (Progressive wound or fixed weight) it is adjusted by altering the length of the spacer. If you set it at the lower end additional pre load can be added with washers.
Rear will be between 2 and 8mm and achieved by adjusting the pre-load.
IMO it is essential that you measure this and don't guess as you will have a base number to work with and can measure any changes you make and the effect this has.
Whilst I may well be wrong I think that some of your feelings about the 'sloppyness' of the forks is due to the wrong amount of sag.
I would use the OE spec for oil viscosity and amount.
Head bearing adjustment. I use the process on the attachment. IMO the spring balance is the important item here as I found that the pre-load on the bearing increased when the top yoke centre nut was tightened.
The article also mentions the Furber fix and some info is attached.
Make sure that all fasteners are to the correct spec. This doesn't meant putting a spanner on them and seeing if they are tight. Back them off and then re-torque to the correct spec.
In particular check all suspension, swinging arm and engine mount fasteners. Note the correct torque sequence.
You have done a hell of a lot so far and at some expense. I'm a great believer in the adage 'If it ant broke don't fix it'. I appreciate a drowning man (no insult intended) will grasp at whatever he can. But unless you can establish beyond reasonable doubt that a part is faulty (e.g. your head race bearings, post #87) leave the part be. Don't waste any more time or money than you need to. Above all DON'T GUESS!
If not done so already make notes of what you have done/ intend to do and what the outcome was. In particular where you have gone away from OE spec.
