Washing / cleaning / corrosion protection

[propwash]

I'm going to bathe the max for the 1st time today (unpredictable Florida weather permitting of course)

To my horror I spotted this on my rear turn lights, argh. A buddy who rode with me yesterday suggested rubbing with Coca Cola. :ummm:

My last bike (vstar 1100) suffered this same fate and looked like a rusty dalmatian when i got rid of it. I don't have a garage, car-port only and I'm only 1mile from ocean (eastern salt breezes blowing all day long)

What can be done to:
a) Remove surface corrosion
b) Apply protective product and hopefully delay further damage.

I'm thinking a cover will at least mitigate humidity but even with a cover my vstar turned into swiss cheese. Oh, I know...move away from Florida. lol

 

[MaxMidnight]

Unless the cover allows sufficient ventilation then it may increase corrosion by trapping humid air.

As far as your inkydator is concerned then I suspect that you may struggle to contain the rot particularly if you want to keep them nice and shiny. One the chrome has been perforated then it will be difficult to prevent moisture from entering.

Dunno if ACF-50 is available over there but it will give protection whilst your Max is in storage.
This article makes a compares it with WD40 and engine oil.

 

[[email protected]]

Looks to me like someone added an eyebrow cover to your OEM signal. That should pop right off. You can just throw the corrosion away

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Fire-medic]

Yes, ditch the vanity luminaire shroud.

I like s100 for cleaning, Cycle Gear on University in Lauderhill carries it. Then any quality wax.

Use a quality cover like Dowco, keep the bike in the carport, in the middle, away from driving rain.

 

[Born2Ride]

Yes cola and rub with aluminium for me works very good, a cover is always a plus as long as wind blows underneath. Preventing rust from reappear is the hardest part.

 

[Gulrok]

So, I've found something that works better than any other chrome/metal polish out there.

It is called Quick Glo. It worked on a slightly pitted chrome exhaust on my old VT1100. Worked great. Never knew there were any rust pits out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Glo-Ch...7011&ie=UTF8&qid=1507204484&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

Product works great. Seriously just buy a small tub. Lasts forever. Probably the first and last one you'd ever buy.

I bought it after I watched it on Jay Leno's Garage a few years ago.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7TnNEBy3tI

 

[propwash]

Thanks for the tips. A friend of mine who has both automotive / marine detailing know-how recommended "Flitz", claiming it can be used on both chrome and plastic. Provides a level of protection again rust also.

 

[Fire-medic]

For 'slightly pitted' chrome, I usually use polishing compound. It doesn't leave a protective coat like this stuff so you have to wax your item after.

For heavier rusted items, I like a bicarbonate of soda blaster. I buy my bicarb. at Costco, 13 lb. bags, pretty-cheap. I have a hand-held Harbor Freight blaster, they sell it on sale for $10, so if you have a compressor, you're able to get down & dirty. The bicarb /compressed air gets into the corners of the pits. I've posted about this on here before: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19563&highlight=soda+blaSTER POST #8

Another one:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=26740&highlight=soda+blaSTER

Electrolysis using Oxyclean:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBaTkJjlwMY

And here's ZackDaniels' post on vinegar & chemicals for rust removal:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=27355&highlight=soda+blaSTER