What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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I knew it was you and also I knew you would check out this thread so I post it here haha :rofl_200:

Aint gonin to say SIR this time :rofl_200:

LoL!

Well, I better stay on topic for this thread! I recently played with the Dyna 3000 settings. Rev limiter was set to 10,000 so reset to 9500. Advance was set to curve #3 so decided to try #4. It was harder to start and it seemed to weaken starting at 8500 rpms or so...felt like when bowls are too lean and run out of fuel. Reset to curve #3 and it's very strong. It pulls 5th gear at WOT starting at 1500 rpms.
 
LoL!

Well, I better stay on topic for this thread! I recently played with the Dyna 3000 settings. Rev limiter was set to 10,000 so reset to 9500. Advance was set to curve #3 so decided to try #4. It was harder to start and it seemed to weaken starting at 8500 rpms or so...felt like when bowls are too lean and run out of fuel. Reset to curve #3 and it's very strong. It pulls 5th gear at WOT starting at 1500 rpms.

have u 'tested' the rev limiter. mine supposedly is at 9500 but i saw the tach reach like 9700 once. altho i feel like the analog needle isn't always 100% accurate as my harlan shift light never lined up with it 100% i feel like it always reads a little fast.

i wanna run a dyno with all 5 low curves and try them out.
 
Garrett, I haven't tested it yet. We'll see how accurate it is...I may have to reset to 9000 rpms. Kind of sucks it only goes in 500 rpm increments.
 
let me know what you find out. to test i may throw it at 8500 just to make sure...
 
I haven't changed the setting on my Dyna 3000 from 1 yet... It runs fine for me... Man, am I getting Old...

Parts to rebuild the Clutch Master Cylinder on the 89 came in Wednesday. I picked them up from Kyle Wednesday Night. The Clutch stopped working after a ride around Tampa Bay 2 weeks ago. Actually it died, clutch wouldn't disengage when I got off the interstate but I managed to get home with a little fiddling..

I had an oil leak from the Stator Wires so I ran a fix on that while things were opened up. I had the Middle Gear cover off... I cleaned around all the stator wires with Non CFC Brake Cleaner.. I injected some red RTV around each of the wires and then packed more around each group and it's grommet. Should never leak again...:rofl_200:

Since I've never done one of these master cylinders on a VMax, I went slow. I found a picture here that had all the parts laid out in order, stolen from another's post.... (Picture 5) During disassembly I found that none of my snap ring pliers would go far enough in to get to the clip holding the guts in the master cylinder. So, I took a pair of Surgical Forceps and modified them to reach and grab the clip... I left the mirror on the master cylinder so I'd have something to hold it with.. Cleaned all the Brake fluid off everything when I got it all back together.

BTW: My 89 had a POS Clutch Line installed so I swapped it out with a stock line that Kyle had off a 90 he'd stripped...

I don't have a vacuum bleeder. I tried everything to get some resistance from the lever. Finally, turned the bars to make the clutch reservoir the highest point of the bike and worked the lever in and out to various degrees. Little bubbles were coming up from the line and slave cylinder and popping up in the master's reservour... After about a half an hour, I had full pressure built up and no more bubbles. Now my clutch seems to work fine....
 

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While not done to my V Max, it was done to a big road-burning Yamaha, my FZR1000, and I have another product just like it for the VMax when it comes back from the shop: a Signal Dynamics license plate frame w/dual-l.e.d. bar.
http://signaldynamics.com/index.php...n=com_virtuemart&Itemid=77&vmcchk=1&Itemid=77


On the FZR the rear light wiring is black=ground, yellow=brake circuit, and blue=running lights. The license plate wiring is black=ground, white is running lights, and red is brake lights. I soldered pigtails onto the stock taillight plugs' quick disconnects after using a narrow metal blade to remove them from the nylon plugs, and a bullet connector soldered onto the other end to mate to a female bullet connector from the license plate. Then I used heat shrink tubing over the connectors. I did the pigtails so I would maintain the stock nylon plugs, not have to cut the stock wiring harness, and have a disconnect for the license frame lighting.

It provides a great difference in visibility from the rear of the bike! Brake lighting especially is more-noticeable. Now if I can get the VMax back to duplicate the mod...
 
While not done to my V Max, it was done to a big road-burning Yamaha, my FZR1000, and I have another product just like it for the VMax when it comes back from the shop: a Signal Dynamics license plate frame w/dual-l.e.d. bar.
http://signaldynamics.com/index.php...n=com_virtuemart&Itemid=77&vmcchk=1&Itemid=77


On the FZR the rear light wiring is black=ground, yellow=brake circuit, and blue=running lights. The license plate wiring is black=ground, white is running lights, and red is brake lights. I soldered pigtails onto the stock taillight plugs' quick disconnects after using a narrow metal blade to remove them from the nylon plugs, and a bullet connector soldered onto the other end to mate to a female bullet connector from the license plate. Then I used heat shrink tubing over the connectors. I did the pigtails so I would maintain the stock nylon plugs, not have to cut the stock wiring harness, and have a disconnect for the license frame lighting.

It provides a great difference in visibility from the rear of the bike! Brake lighting especially is more-noticeable. Now if I can get the VMax back to duplicate the mod...

Great idea! Do you have any pics of it installed?
 
Great idea! Do you have any pics of it installed?

Yeah I can post some up but I may not get to do it until after the weekend. I usually get on a tear to finish & don't take any pics of work underway but if you don't mind waiting I will take some & post 'em.
 
Picked up triples from anodizer.
had stem pressed in
bearing pressed on.
races in frame changed
waiting for parts. Waiting, waiting, waiting,......
 
Fixed a fuel line leak. I was using an ethanol resistant line recommended by my boat dealer.. It was so tough I had used 2 screw clamps to pinch it down... It actually cracked the line and was dumping fuel all over the hot engine... Not Good.....I found some more conventional line that's still Ethanol Resistant and replaced what I'd originally used...

Fuel line at the top is USCG Type B1-15. You can see how hard it had to be clamped to stop initial leaks. Then the hose itself cracked.... The bottom and more conventional line is USCG Type A1. It doesn't require so much force and only one clamp is needed...

Took some new pictures of SkullDuggery too....
 

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finally got the bike back together after overhauling the crankcase breather housing (i'll put a how-to together within the next couple of days...gotta pay the bills). the job included a carb overhaul, an oil and coolant change, and a speedo cable and throttle cables sleeve wrapping mod. maxxxy-boy actual purrs now like a jungle cat instead of an aging hippo. it's amazing! a huge shoutout goes to captainkyle for all the parts!
 
what a day!!! weather hit 87 here today. so ofcourse i rode most of the day. with another vmax a v65 and a oilpump(wide glide). while stopped for fuel. some kid comes up and takes pics of the max's. said it's for the voma magazine. so if any of you get the mag. let me know if you see us.
 
Did the Morley battery upgrade with Sears Diehard AGM 18L-BS, bike cranks with the slightest touch of the strarter button. I hope it last longer than the reviews posted for the battery. I still have my trusty Odessy as a back up, just running it in my jetski.
 
I just reinsured it for another year...

I spent all weekend correcting the paint on my car... Looks amazing if I do say so myself. Bright lights show all... Not a scratch or a blemish to see here... :eusa_dance: (that's a reflection off the paint)
 

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