What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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FINALLY finished installing my Progressive springs and oil! Thanks to all on the board for your help, especially Sean's video and DANNYMAX for loaning me his damper tool. :clapping:

Of course, I wouldn't be THE NOOB WRENCHER, if I didn't screw it up again::damn angry:

I hammered in the bushing with the washer, then took the washer off to see if it was down far enough.

Then I put on the oil seal and tapped that down with the washer(see where this is going?) When I looked I thought "wow, that is really far past the snap ring line, I wonder-oh where does this washer in my hand go?":ummm:

So I had to undo the drain bolt again and pull it all apart and put the washer UNDER the seal! Well, live and learn.

As soon as I get my new fork brace and brake pads it should only take me a couple weeks to get those on and maybe I can ride!

Trevor aka VMAX NV aka THE NOOB WRENCHER
 
That's ok Trevor..........When I perform the spring install on my Max later on I can go back and learn from you!.............At which time I will be the Noob and you will be the master!
 
ya, what beekeeper said. i've got my parts, but every month something else pops up. i've read all what the forum has to offer with respect to the spring install and have watched the vid as well. are there any gotchas or tips that you ran into that are not in the posts? what would you do different? what should noobs like me be sure to do? any special order of steps? i'm ocd when it comes to messing with the bike, so any information i can manage out of folks, i'll take. hehehehe
 
Happens to all of us, don't worry bout it. Nothing is as easy as it should be and as long as you learn from your mistakes your making progress. That being said I make progress all the time

FINALLY finished installing my Progressive springs and oil! Thanks to all on the board for your help, especially Sean's video and DANNYMAX for loaning me his damper tool. :clapping:

Of course, I wouldn't be THE NOOB WRENCHER, if I didn't screw it up again::damn angry:

I hammered in the bushing with the washer, then took the washer off to see if it was down far enough.

Then I put on the oil seal and tapped that down with the washer(see where this is going?) When I looked I thought "wow, that is really far past the snap ring line, I wonder-oh where does this washer in my hand go?":ummm:

So I had to undo the drain bolt again and pull it all apart and put the washer UNDER the seal! Well, live and learn.

As soon as I get my new fork brace and brake pads it should only take me a couple weeks to get those on and maybe I can ride!

Trevor aka VMAX NV aka THE NOOB WRENCHER
 
Damn mod monkey. I'm going to replace the Kerker muffler on this
99vmax.jpg


with this which has 2.5 inch inlet and 4 inch outlet
RSracingmuffler.jpg
 
ya, what beekeeper said. i've got my parts, but every month something else pops up. i've read all what the forum has to offer with respect to the spring install and have watched the vid as well. are there any gotchas or tips that you ran into that are not in the posts? what would you do different? what should noobs like me be sure to do? any special order of steps? i'm ocd when it comes to messing with the bike, so any information i can manage out of folks, i'll take. hehehehe

Some tips (not necessarily in order):

1. Watch the video numerous times. Then watch it again.
2. Do one fork at a time.
3. Take your time.
4. Get an exploded diagram of all fork parts and lay them out that way.
5. I would just loosen the drain bolt, then undo the top, take out the spacer, washer and spring with a hook or magnet, then take out the whole tube and pour the oil out the top. Of course, then you may have to put it back in the tree to pull off the bottom part...
6. An impact wrench and/or damper tool helps a lot!(thanks Dannymax!)
7. Put it back in the tree to screw in the top. Get up on the bike, push down and you should be able to do it yourself unless you forgot to trim your spacers.
8. Your brake and/or clutch bolts/lines may be blocking access to the top bolts.
9. You can tap in the bushing and seal with the old washer, an allen wrench/drift punch and a rubber mallet unless you have Sean's magic pvc pipe tool.
10. I bought two quarts of fluid. Measured the first fork carefully, then just poured it in the second and compared levels in the containers. Worked fine.
I actually (very carefully) used a drinking straw to adjust the oil on the first one.
11. I firmly believe that if I can do this, anyone can!:biglaugh:
12. one more, pay attention or even take pictures of the order and orientation of the parts you remove.

Have one beer before you start and a couple after.

I still have to road test it:rocket bike:

Trevor aka VMAX NV aka THE NOOB WRENCHER
 
Take your time and you'll probably laugh at how easy it was later. I know I did. Thanks for the video Sean.
 
finished cleanin and overhaulin' carbs 3 and 4. i guess i'll join the pairs tomorrow.
 

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finished cleanin and overhaulin' carbs 3 and 4. i guess i'll join the pairs tomorrow.

If you can remove, dis-mantle, clean & freshen and 're-mantle' a set of v max carbs....fork rebuild will be no problem for you! :biglaugh:

My damper rod holding tool is available if you need it....altho I'm not sure it will fit your bike....Yamaha changed them sometime in that era. :confused2:

It isn't a bad idea to print out a breakdown of your forks to have for reference, jic! Any OEM parts supplier fiche will work if you don't have a service manual.

Better yet, there is a down-loadable service manual in the VMF links.
 
...My damper rod holding tool is available if you need it...
Dude, that's awesome of you to offer! But I'll hold off for the moment.

...altho I'm not sure it will fit your bike....Yamaha changed them sometime in that era.
ya, kept reading things like that. :wacko: i'm hoping to find some luck if i left the forks in the yokes and hit it with my impact gun :hmmm:(my NEW impact gun i should say hehehehe :clapping:). i love "diy"ing the bike--@ $90/hr stealership rates, i am able to "save" up for new gadgets and upgrades! :punk:

It isn't a bad idea to print out a breakdown of your forks to have for reference, jic! Any OEM parts supplier fiche will work if you don't have a service manual.
I have both the Clymer's and Haynes (the PO was kind enough to throw them in as part of the deal...that and rusted out bearings :rofl_200::real mad:). But the fiche is a great idea! I'll print out it out, too.
 
Some tips (not necessarily in order):

1. Watch the video numerous times. Then watch it again.
2. Do one fork at a time.
3. Take your time.
4. Get an exploded diagram of all fork parts and lay them out that way.
5. I would just loosen the drain bolt, then undo the top, take out the spacer, washer and spring with a hook or magnet, then take out the whole tube and pour the oil out the top. Of course, then you may have to put it back in the tree to pull off the bottom part...
6. An impact wrench and/or damper tool helps a lot!(thanks Dannymax!)
7. Put it back in the tree to screw in the top. Get up on the bike, push down and you should be able to do it yourself unless you forgot to trim your spacers.
8. Your brake and/or clutch bolts/lines may be blocking access to the top bolts.
9. You can tap in the bushing and seal with the old washer, an allen wrench/drift punch and a rubber mallet unless you have Sean's magic pvc pipe tool.
10. I bought two quarts of fluid. Measured the first fork carefully, then just poured it in the second and compared levels in the containers. Worked fine.
I actually (very carefully) used a drinking straw to adjust the oil on the first one.
11. I firmly believe that if I can do this, anyone can!:biglaugh:
12. one more, pay attention or even take pictures of the order and orientation of the parts you remove.

Have one beer before you start and a couple after.

I still have to road test it:rocket bike:

Trevor aka VMAX NV aka THE NOOB WRENCHER


Great Stuff, VMAX NV! Thanks.
 
Joined the carb pairs early this morning over a cup of joe and a slice of pizza
 

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ya, kept reading things like that. :wacko: i'm hoping to find some luck if i left the forks in the yokes and hit it with my impact gun :hmmm:(my NEW impact gun i should say hehehehe :clapping:). i love "diy"ing the bike--@ $90/hr stealership rates, i am able to "save" up for new gadgets and upgrades! :punk:
On my 06, I know that Danny's fork tool will not work. Yamaha didn't machine the hex into these newer years. I simply used a 3/4'' wooden dowel rod that I ground down to fit, to hold it in place until I could start bolt and to tighten it up.
The impact will work great for the removal, but unnecessary for re-installation.
 
I left the forks assembled in the trees, let the air out, and loosened one damper rod bolt with my impact. Used a breaker bar with allen key socket on the air cause my compressor sucks. Same thing with tightening. No holder was needed for me.
 
crap, forgot that. didn't think of what to do to hold the rod in place. the broomstick should do, right?

I did mine exactly like Sean posted in his video and had no problems at all in the dis-assembly and re-assembly. The only tricky part for me was the very last step of re-installing the caps while compressing the spring at the same time.
 
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