What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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Years ago, when that type of LED light replacement came available, I tried them in my Volvo 240. I was not impressed, and switched-back to incadescent stockers after a week. I still have them sitting in a toolbox drawer. Maybe they're better now.

You should use the 'search' function and try 'l.e.d. tailight,' 'taillight' or similar and you will find the typical replacement is a 600 CBR Honda light w/l.e.d.'s which fits under the lip of the stock fender fairly-easily.

What you talkin BOUT? :ummm:
 
A response to post #4399, the contents of which is:

i will do a test what can i do to my vmax.
led tail light

The link goes to a China manufacturer/distributor of 1157 size led replacement bulbs, among others.

Don't wast money on these bulbs on a stock brake light housing they will never be as bright as regular bulbs, I tried them before replacing the brake light with an LED unit.
 
Not strictly, VMax, but it is a performance Yamaha.

Last night I was going to go to Coral Gables (FL) on my FZR1000, but no-go on the electrolyte soup-in-a-box reporting for work. Overnight supplemental electron nourishment failed to rouse the charge to turn-over the engine. Out of the bike, 13+ V, in the bike and asked to work, manana!


The battery was a sealed Yuasa 16 months old, so 4 mo. out of warranty.
A replacement same thing was $100 out-the-door. As I recently did for my '92 VMax, I sprung for the Ballistic Li-ion 12-cell, $172 out-the-door.

The Yuasa: 210 c.c.amps
The Ballistic: 410 c.c.amps!

224477325.jpg

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=224477325&listingid=159610782
this outlet wants $259 shipped, I think I got a good price!

Now my bike lights-off right now! Strangely, I didn't have any issues before the battery dropped-dead. I hadn't ridden it in a bit and when I tried last night, it was time for a new one. My thought: if I get < 2 years out of a $100 quality battery, and the Li-ion lasts me 6 years, I will be way-ahead of the game. (four $100 batteries @ < 18 months ea. = $400, vs. one $172 Li-ion battery, estimated life 72 months, plus the multiple switch-outs & possible roadside breakdowns for the traditional batteries)

I am guessing that I may be one of the few members on here using two Li-ion batteries on their performance Yamahas. :biglaugh:
 
Don't wast money on these bulbs on a stock brake light housing they will never be as bright as regular bulbs, I tried them before replacing the brake light with an LED unit.

I had the same experience. Tried cheap 1157 LED's, not nearly as bright as the incandescent stockers. The newer versions of the LED bulbs may be better.
LED bulbs apparantly require their own type of reflector to achieve maximum lumen output. Which would make a LED-specific taillight the way to go.
Cheers!
 
Not strictly, VMax, but it is a performance Yamaha.

Last night I was going to go to Coral Gables (FL) on my FZR1000, but no-go on the electrolyte soup-in-a-box reporting for work. Overnight supplemental electron nourishment failed to rouse the charge to turn-over the engine. Out of the bike, 13+ V, in the bike and asked to work, manana!


The battery was a sealed Yuasa 16 months old, so 4 mo. out of warranty.
A replacement same thing was $100 out-the-door. As I recently did for my '92 VMax, I sprung for the Ballistic Li-ion 12-cell, $172 out-the-door.

The Yuasa: 210 c.c.amps
The Ballistic: 410 c.c.amps!

224477325.jpg

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=224477325&listingid=159610782
this outlet wants $259 shipped, I think I got a good price!

Now my bike lights-off right now! Strangely, I didn't have any issues before the battery dropped-dead. I hadn't ridden it in a bit and when I tried last night, it was time for a new one. My thought: if I get < 2 years out of a $100 quality battery, and the Li-ion lasts me 6 years, I will be way-ahead of the game. (four $100 batteries @ < 18 months ea. = $400, vs. one $172 Li-ion battery, estimated life 72 months, plus the multiple switch-outs & possible roadside breakdowns for the traditional batteries)

I am guessing that I may be one of the few members on here using two Li-ion batteries on their performance Yamahas. :biglaugh:

So, aside from the performance, is it significantly lighter?
 
Did the bounce test and tightened the head bearings, going out for a lil test ride after this ball game on TV is done.
 
So, aside from the performance, is it significantly lighter?

Yeah, previously I posted pics of the one I threw-into my VMax compared to the stocker (you could search under my name and 'battery'). This weighs 2.5 lbs. The battery I removed, a Yuasa, weighed 11.5, so a nine-lb. savings! Calculated against the additional cost of ~$72, that's $8.00/lb for weight savings. Try and make that kind of impact buying replacement titanium nuts & bolts from Poggopolini!

Tha also says nothing of the nearly doubled cold-cranking amps. No 'slow-turnover' if you had that problem before! Actually, I think the 'sparking plugs' are burning 217 degrees hotter, and my checkbook balanced itself, all-because of the newfound power!:biglaugh:

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Finally Got the Bolt I needed to Finsh My Progressive Fork Spring Upgrade.
Sadly, just as I was going to take a short Test Ride, it started Raining and then Sleeting !
The Forks do feel a lot tighter though and I'm really looking forward to putting them to the test as soon as possible.
 

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A response to post #4399, the contents of which is:

i will do a test what can i do to my vmax.
led tail light

The link goes to a China manufacturer/distributor of 1157 size led replacement bulbs, among others.



Aaaaaaaah. I see.

Agreed.
Those bulbs are kinda bright, but don't throw much light out.
You need to cover the lens area with leds for it to work.
I've tried them, they are crap.

Witness my test of one 5w normal bulb and one LED bulb.
I tested 3 different manufacturers, including one really expensive type.

My conclusion after running a few tests like this was that I can use the bulbs in the indicators as the fill the lens, but I need to make a full size led assy for the tail light if I want to do it.
 

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For the first time ever I turned by idle mixture screws.
None were stuck!
They were between 3 and 8 turns out!
I put them on 3 last night and just checked it started out and sounded better.

With the Marks, the 147.5 mains, and the B-boost set at 4k, it has been uneven as hell, like a couple of little Harleys having a fight up until about 3k, then WOOOOSH!

Hopefully today will be more gooder.
 
Saw this 1996 at my friend's shop, Under Pressure, Dania Beach FL, does it belong to anyone here?

It was in for carb work. The owner said, "I get 35 miles per tank!"

When Steve, the shop owner, disassembled the carbs, he said the needles were raised all the way-up (circlip in the lowest slot) and they were shimmed! He said it was blowing 'black smoke' out when he started it. I guess it was "a bit rich!":rofl_200:

Supposedly, it was a kitted set of carbs, but Steve thinks it's missing the different PAJ's & etc. I didn't look at them on the bench to see if the slides were drilled or not. The VBoost manifold is there, as you may notice in the picture, I didn't look at it to see if the butterflies were removed. It doesn't appear to have the hose vent in-place of the oil filler cap, nor did I see the air filter(s) to see if it was a true Stage 7.

The bike had 18,961 mi on it. Looked to be stone-stock, stock pipe rattle-canned black for the header pipes (better heat transfer, you know, 'for racing!')
 

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Wow. Sad to see how people can get sold on a stage VII without even knowing that keep the stock exhaust will make it irrelevant! When it's sorted its owner's gonna be amazed by how well it'll run! And 100+ miles per tank lol
 
Wow. Sad to see how people can get sold on a stage VII without even knowing that keep the stock exhaust will make it irrelevant! When it's sorted its owner's gonna be amazed by how well it'll run! And 100+ miles per tank lol


I see this all the time and try to inform them that an all stock system is useless to do a jet kit upon. All you need is an aftermarket air filter (K&N) and just adjust the air/fuel mixtures if that!
 
I got board waiting between Anatomy/Physiology and microbiology classes, so I took the garage door opener out of the Dodge.

I wired up a small momentary button to a stereo headphone type jack. Then I opened up the garage door opener, and wired a female jack. Then put it all together.

opener2.jpg


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I tested it, and it works great ! :punk:

When I get back from microbiology I'll drill a hole on one of the controls to mount the switch. I'll post some more pictures when I get that done.

Now when I park the Dodge for the summer I'll just take the remote, plug in the switch and let it rest on top of the airbox, and in the fall, just unplug it and put it back in the Dodge. :clapping:
 
I got board waiting between Anatomy/Physiology and microbiology classes, so I took the garage door opener out of the Dodge.

I wired up a small momentary button to a stereo headphone type jack. Then I opened up the garage door opener, and wired a female jack. Then put it all together.


I tested it, and it works great ! :punk:

When I get back from microbiology I'll drill a hole on one of the controls to mount the switch. I'll post some more pictures when I get that done.

Now when I park the Dodge for the summer I'll just take the remote, plug in the switch and let it rest on top of the airbox, and in the fall, just unplug it and put it back in the Dodge. :clapping:

I just installed a similar system to this guy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJwN4QYcs7c


:biglaugh:
 
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