What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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Well, I came on this forum, just so I could see a picture of my bike in my avatar, and to read about what people do when they own a motorised bicycle. They do a lot of pretty cool things, and but some nice parts!!!
The shop that is fixing mine hasn't got the parts yet. I happen to know that the business owner went on 2 weeks holiday without ordering the replacement rearsets. Yeah, his name is MUD now. I'll give him some f***ing publicity for free.

HURRY UP!!!!!
 
Tore down one of my forks to find what looks like twice used bacon grease and water...here is the proof. Now on to Home Depot to make a cheap seal driver and get some fluids so I can rebuild this one and the other. Think ill sand the lowers down and black them out.
 

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Went to a vintage bike show yesterday for 93' and earlier and took 1st place in the custom class, that was pretty cool, then on the way home my clutch began to loose pressure on the longer stretches of road? Time to bleed the system again
Way to go tim! Sounds like the master cylinder might need rebuilding internally.
 
I have a similar symptom but the other way around. After i ride for a while my clutch starts slipping. It looks like the springs have no strength to push back the plunger. It happened before but i mistakenly put less washers in the coil springs to tune the strength (we are talking about a Barnett dish with a MTC lockup). Then i added the proper amount of washers to increase pressure on the clutch and it keeps doing the same. If i leave the bike to rest for a couple hours it gets back to normal but as soon as i pump it up sometimes it will go back to slippage... When this happens if i open the servo bleeder it will squirt some oil and the clutch engages again properly, something is not allowing the plunger to get back to normal rested position and i think i already have plenty of pressure on the plate. need to have a chat with the MTC dudes again... Any inputs on this?
 
You're flexible hose could be collapsed or the slave cyl piston (puck) may need cleaning. I have replaced many flexible hoses on autos that had symthoms of caliper sticking and found the hose was collapsed. If either one of these conditions exist pressure will always hold pressure on the clutch pressure plate. If you can't push the puck back in with your thumbs disconnected from master cylinder, then I would remove puck and square type O ring and clean. Most of the time oxidation will form behind square O ring and keep the Oring pressed tight against the puck causing it not to move freely, this part of slave cylinder should be very clean for slave puck to move freely..........
 
Thanks I am replacing the line with a braided galfer one and went to rebuild the slave but its loaded with rust and having trouble getting the piston out, so I broke down and ordered a new slave. $71 thru my local dealer and should be in 1-2 days
 
Thanks I am replacing the line with a braided galfer one and went to rebuild the slave but its loaded with rust and having trouble getting the piston out, so I broke down and ordered a new slave. $71 thru my local dealer and should be in 1-2 days

Tim, there is one more flexible hose that should be checked and it is where the steel line from the slave leads up towards the carbs........
 
You're flexible hose could be collapsed or the slave cyl piston (puck) may need cleaning. I have replaced many flexible hoses on autos that had symthoms of caliper sticking and found the hose was collapsed. If either one of these conditions exist pressure will always hold pressure on the clutch pressure plate. If you can't push the puck back in with your thumbs disconnected from master cylinder, then I would remove puck and square type O ring and clean. Most of the time oxidation will form behind square O ring and keep the Oring pressed tight against the puck causing it not to move freely, this part of slave cylinder should be very clean for slave puck to move freely..........

I have full length braided line so no collapses, and by puck do you mean the piston inside the slave with the sealing o-ring or the one that is to the right of the metal sphere and actually pushes the pressure plate bearing? I thought of crap inside the servo im considering recycling the fluid in the system but what do you think? A disassemble of the servo should be in order? I never needed to do that before so i'd like some input from who is more knowledgeable on those issues... What i notice is that when i start the bike everything seems normal and when i press the clutch lever it operates as should by disengaging the pressure plate and when i release it it seems that it doesn't come all the way back full pressure like it was before i pulled the lever, repeating this several times will decrease the plate pressure consecutively looking like the pressure plate is farther apart from the friction discs (when i say apart i mean less compression on them). I only get some grip when i rev it and the lockup tightens it down but that is not a good thing as i can burn the steel discs.
 
I was referring to the piston/puck inside the slave housing, but there is another flexable hose that should be checked and it is connected to the steel line from the slave. You should be able to blow thru it with very little resistance with your mouth both ways.It would be good to unbolt the resevoir and empty it also and pump a little brake fluid thru it by operating lever, like you mentioned. Use only DOT 3 or 4 to refil and bleed system. I think after you get done with everything your clutch should operate like it should.
 
I painted half of the side covers black, painted the "yamaha" letters on the scoops and started to wet sand my sissy bar to get the clear coat off of it.
 

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Did the first gear and oil change. Gear oil was still very clear but the engine oil was a little dark. The only thing that sucked was the rear stand I have is to narrow to fit the spools. So I improvised and used the floor jack to lift the rear tire.
 
45 degrees out and the city has their street sweepers out. So I figure it was time to do a little shake down run. Everything worked great! The only thing I have to do is burn up last years fuel, install the fuel sender, and give her a tune on the carbs.

Using the louvered faux was a good decision, sealing it up to the Morley's Muscle Jet Kit was even a better one. :punk:

The speedo/tach is spot on and with the price, even with having to wire match, was well worth it.

Lots of thumbs up and quite a few heads turned went along with the "what the hell is that?"
 
Rode it to the Car and Bike show at the Log Cabin. Probably 400 bikes and 500 cars. Was able to make contact with the other 6 Vmax's that were there, 2 were 09's. Did a nice Holeshot to quiet down the Vtwin peep's.
Is this Log cabin in Macedon N.Y.?.
 
I have full length braided line so no collapses, and by puck do you mean the piston inside the slave with the sealing o-ring or the one that is to the right of the metal sphere and actually pushes the pressure plate bearing? I thought of crap inside the servo im considering recycling the fluid in the system but what do you think? A disassemble of the servo should be in order? I never needed to do that before so i'd like some input from who is more knowledgeable on those issues... What i notice is that when i start the bike everything seems normal and when i press the clutch lever it operates as should by disengaging the pressure plate and when i release it it seems that it doesn't come all the way back full pressure like it was before i pulled the lever, repeating this several times will decrease the plate pressure consecutively looking like the pressure plate is farther apart from the friction discs (when i say apart i mean less compression on them). I only get some grip when i rev it and the lockup tightens it down but that is not a good thing as i can burn the steel discs.


I guess it's not this problem? --> http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=37808&postcount=10
 
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