What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

[Kronx]

I rode in the rain at around 50ish degree weather... and the crazy part is.... I enjoyed it. I've got issues. :wacko:

 

[V4bandit]

Installed a set of Supertrapp slip ons onto the ol'max. Sounds alot meaner now, I'm loving it. Now just need some warmer temps to be able to ride.
Thanks again to Mitchelljd02 for the pipes. unk:




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYv7a1ZocqY

 

[timscues]

Rode in this morning got a little nipply around creeks and farm lowlands.
Itwas 50 when i left the house.

 

[KJShover]

I worked a little bit on the flame thrower, then decided to take a brake. So I grabbed some leftover fittings and such and threw together a fork air equalizing setup.
After drilling some holes in the riser area along the sides of my speedo for the schrader valve and on the other side for the 15psi gauge.

Before ppl start in with the "you should put some progressive springs in", I ended up selling my prog's to a friend and going to install them on his bike over the winter. I'm a straight line guy, but I can still drag my pegs with the stock springs front and back. I don't really need progs, I'm basically happy with the my suspension is working as it is.

 

[adambweird]

Thats a pretty good idea there KJ, makes things a hell of a lot easier. Your bikes gonna look like the iside of a fighter jet with all the gauges youve got, lol.

 

[scottybaccus]

After a couple of weeks tuning, I finally got my carbs dialed in for my K&N filter and Dragstar pipe! It's a happy, happy day! Happy, Happy, Happy!

 

[DMAN999]

Installed a set of Supertrapp slip ons onto the ol'max. Sounds alot meaner now, I'm loving it. Now just need some warmer temps to be able to ride.
Thanks again to Mitchelljd02 for the pipes. unk:

Sounds Great and that paint is Sweet too !!!!
You should try and make it down to NY for our Spring Ice Breaker Ride next spring.
You're only a few hours away from here.

 

[johnblaid]

I installed some new o-rings on some stuff that comes out when you remove the oil pan. I cleaned up my work bench and wrapped all parts ready to re-install in saran rap and put them on a shelf. I sat on my bike...it is up on the center stand with most of the covers removed and the exaust system removed.

I wondered if it will ever run again.

 

[[email protected]]

If your worried about that washer, pull the motor out of the bike and find it. Pulling the motor can be done in half a day, by yourself, taking your time.

 

[Fire-medic]

If your worried about that washer, pull the motor out of the bike and find it. Pulling the motor can be done in half a day, by yourself, taking your time.

Are you taking a lunch break? Last time I did it, I kept an eye on the clock, < 3 hrs. (by-about maybe 5 minutes:biglaugh

Nah, I'm not a mechanic, but having done it a couple of times, now, you learn how to do it more-quickly, for-sure. Plus, you've already broken-loose the fittings, which can make a difference. Getting it back-in can be a pain, one time, it took me 2 hours to get the driveshaft in correctly. I messed w/it for a solid hour, and never could get it correct. I stepped-away for a half-hour, and tried again, and after some struggling, it finally went in. Another time, it went into place on my first insertion attempt, and I wasn't sure it was in, but it was. That time wasn't even 4 minutes!:ummm: Go-figure. I was happy w/that!

I just use a big red floor jack and am working by myself to remove/replace the engine. In my experience the time has been ~ 1/3 each: getting the block in-place, getting the exhaust installed, doing the carbs and wiring, a bit less time for the cooling system, which is why I give the job 110%!:rofl_200:

 

[sdt354]

Are you taking a lunch break? Last time I did it, I kept an eye on the clock, < 3 hrs. (by-about maybe 5 minutes:biglaugh

Nah, I'm not a mechanic, but having done it a couple of times, now, you learn how to do it more-quickly, for-sure. Plus, you've already broken-loose the fittings, which can make a difference. Getting it back-in can be a pain, one time, it took me 2 hours to get the driveshaft in correctly. I messed w/it for a solid hour, and never could get it correct. I stepped-away for a half-hour, and tried again, and after some struggling, it finally went in. Another time, it went into place on my first insertion attempt, and I wasn't sure it was in, but it was. That time wasn't even 4 minutes!:ummm: Go-figure. I was happy w/that!

I just use a big red floor jack and am working by myself to remove/replace the engine. In my experience the time has been ~ 1/3 each: getting the block in-place, getting the exhaust installed, doing the carbs and wiring, a bit less time for the cooling system, which is why I give the job 110%!:rofl_200:

Great job. The gold is very sharp looking. I've been looking for a nice gold powder to do a few pieces. The valve covers and 4 engine block drain covers, then work it into someplace on my new, to me wheels. Gold and black look nice. I was going to go red, but plans change.
Engine swaps? I bleed less now than I used to, and been wrenching since Pike's Peak was a pimple. Last one I did, I suspended the engine from overhead-on Rusty's advice and used a jack too, took out the middle gear- per Sean's advice,and removed the swing arm and exhaust studs after gouging the paint the first time, just to be safe. I've had good luck getting the shaft in. Bike in neutral so I can move the u joint helps me out. Two hours with power tools still.

 

[Fire-medic]

Thanks, the powder coat place I use (Fusion Powdercoat, Dania Beach FL) is not the fastest, but he works the pieces pretty-well, and prices are reasonable. At some point, I want to have him do my frame, swingarm & misc. brackets & stuff. Then I will consider my bike to be 'mostly-done.' I have a spare frame I could swap my engine into if I wanted to keep riding, but I have other bikes, though they don't get much usage anymore.

I have found that removing the swingarm is a good way to get the engine back in-place, too.

I would like to see a photoshop of a lipstick-red frame and silver or polished aluminum bodywork, I think that would look good. Stock panels rather than aftermarket stuff.

Great job. The gold is very sharp looking. I've been looking for a nice gold powder to do a few pieces. The valve covers and 4 engine block drain covers, then work it into someplace on my new, to me wheels. Gold and black look nice. I was going to go red, but plans change.
Engine swaps? I bleed less now than I used to, and been wrenching since Pike's Peak was a pimple. Last one I did, I suspended the engine from overhead-on Rusty's advice and used a jack too, took out the middle gear- per Sean's advice,and removed the swing arm and exhaust studs after gouging the paint the first time, just to be safe. I've had good luck getting the shaft in. Bike in neutral so I can move the u joint helps me out. Two hours with power tools still.

 

[sdt354]

I started working on the heads for my next project. Gasket matched the exhaust ports. Lot's of room for improvement there. The intakes match very well from the factory, but I smooth out all the casting marks. Same with the manifolds. No need to remove material on the intake ports or manifolds. I discovered early on that careful attention to alignment of the intake maniflolds during assembly can get them matched fairly well. The stage 7 cross overs were glass smooth already. I may not use v-boost on this one. I run it open all the time now anyway.
Steve-o

 

[johnblaid]

I looked at my clutch fluid routing system. I bought a cable and a couple of kits but I'm not sure about all those steel pipes connected by hoses. This cable looks like it goes from the handle bar directly to the slave cylinder and bypasses all that plumbing. WTF. it will never run again anyway

 

[shicks16]

I looked at my clutch fluid routing system. I bought a cable and a couple of kits but I'm not sure about all those steel pipes connected by hoses. This cable looks like it goes from the handle bar directly to the slave cylinder and bypasses all that plumbing. WTF. it will never run again anyway

It replaces all the old lines. Just yank all the old stuff out.

 

[johnblaid]

I'd like to yank the damn engine out and hit it with a sledge hammer. I may do that next weekend.

 

[Traumahawk]

I looked at my clutch fluid routing system. I bought a cable and a couple of kits but I'm not sure about all those steel pipes connected by hoses. This cable looks like it goes from the handle bar directly to the slave cylinder and bypasses all that plumbing. WTF. it will never run again anyway

LOL...I can help you get it running again...

 

[Fire-medic]

I'd like to yank the damn engine out and hit it with a sledge hammer. I may do that next weekend.

Hey, it's only mechanics, not a human! You can get it running-again, all you need is the time, a reasonable bank account, a place to work on it, and maybe some assist from us. I had some dark thoughts about the resurrection of my bike, and while it did try my bank account and my patience, I found a good shop to do the 'heavy lifting,' and after buying parts and getting lots of info here, it lives-again.

That day will come for you, too, just keep posting your needs and what you find. Remember you can always swap the engine, not-w/o its own issues, as I found-out, but I eventually made one good one from two w/'issues.'

 

[davesax36]

Red koted one of my new tanks for the project bike. We'll see how it works. The stuff that dried in my funnel looks pretty cool.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

 

[Redbone]

I looked at my clutch fluid routing system. I bought a cable and a couple of kits but I'm not sure about all those steel pipes connected by hoses. This cable looks like it goes from the handle bar directly to the slave cylinder and bypasses all that plumbing. WTF. it will never run again anyway

Not to worry, this just removes some connections (and possible leaky connections). As long as the line is good and no leaky connections you should be good. With the clutch master/ slave in good working order then all you need is a good bleeding (made easier with a Mityvac or similar device) to get you clutch in top shape.
If I ever have to buy another clutch line I will order up a custom length line and the appropriate banjo fitting for the slave cylinder. It helps to clean up the look of the engine too! (IMO)