out of curiosity, I noticed you have your fuel selector on reserve, how come? I ask because I am unclear on how exactly the reserve works on this bike. I ran it out of fuel once, flipped to the reserve, and nothing happened. I turned the key off and then on and then the bike started again but started sputtering shortly afterward, luckily it got me to a gas station before dying again.I installed an inexpensive power outlet for 12v and USB. Works well on my other bike keeping my phone (navigation) powered. Also reverse feeding 12v back to the battery from my trickle charger. Beats having to unbolt my aftermarket seat all the time. Plus it has a voltage readout.
I admit, maybe not the prettiest thing in the world but I'm not either.
out of curiosity, I noticed you have your fuel selector on reserve, how come? I ask because I am unclear on how exactly the reserve works on this bike. I ran it out of fuel once, flipped to the reserve, and nothing happened. I turned the key off and then on and then the bike started again but started sputtering shortly afterward, luckily it got me to a gas station before dying again.
Thanks for the tip, my first bike had a petcock, and the middle two had nothing but a light that came on when you had about 1/2 gallon left, but this one had me a bit confused.You've got good eyes. For the winter I put in fuel stabilizer as well as run the bike out of gas. My carbs are pretty Ify now so I get rid of as much fuel in the bike as I can for the winter. So I left it on reserve.
I would think when you switch to reserve a solenoid opens the lower fuel intake tube. You will no doubt need a few seconds, or maybe a minute (depending on how low the fuel bowls are with fuel), for the fuel pump to fill them. When I switch over to reserve it works pretty fast. Of course the first thing I do is reach under the fake tank, then go duuuu, no petcock here, not even a tank. Then flip the switch
Nope! no solenoid, just a change in resistance measured at the fuel level sensor by the C.D.I. module.You've got good eyes. For the winter I put in fuel stabilizer as well as run the bike out of gas. My carbs are pretty Ify now so I get rid of as much fuel in the bike as I can for the winter. So I left it on reserve.
I would think when you switch to reserve a solenoid opens the lower fuel intake tube. You will no doubt need a few seconds, or maybe a minute (depending on how low the fuel bowls are with fuel), for the fuel pump to fill them. When I switch over to reserve it works pretty fast. Of course the first thing I do is reach under the fake tank, then go duuuu, no petcock here, not even a tank. Then flip the switch
Nope! no solenoid, just a change in resistance measured at the fuel level sensor by the C.D.I. module.
That change in resistance caused by low fuel simply shuts of the fuel pump then the motor stumbles, dies.
You turning your switch to reserve is a different circuit in the module allowing the fuel pump to run then
you the rider are now aware that you will soon be pushing if you don't get fuel. This may be better explained
in the manual, depending on which one you have, which is the subject of my next post. Here's a pic of the
fuel level sensor.View attachment 74891
Also reverse feeding 12v back to the battery from my trickle charger. Beats having to unbolt my aftermarket seat all the time.
yeah, I'm looking at doing something like that.
BTW what is the big red light on the unit for?
I have a fuel gouge and the stock low fuel warning light, so the reserve is always left on.Interesting, that does sound less expensive/complicated and get's the rider's attention. Maybe not as safe just as a light. I might look into bypassing the fuel shut off at some point and just have the light come on.
I just started it up and let it run for a while, then I did a quick wash. It’s been filthy and I’ve been meaning to do it. I want it nice and clean so if it happens to hit 40 degrees and sunny it’s ready. View attachment 74916View attachment 74915
I have a fuel gouge and the stock low fuel warning light, so the reserve is always left on.
A good manual, get to know how to use it, read it, study it. Learn to use the search feature hereHope it's not a couple months and the battery is dead. Maybe you live in Miame and tha't not a thing. I don't
Oh that's right the light does not go out when reserve is switched on. I've only got a few hundred miles on it so far so still figuring things out
I would recommend to EVERYONE to reassess stuff every so often.
In 2013, I started upgrading the suspension on the Vmax. I went with progressive springs....and preload adjusters. I still had stock rear shocks.....set at 3. The preload adjusters were adjusted to probably around half an inch and the progressive springs are an inch lower.
It was a little bit harsh.....but WAY better than stock.
Then....I got a GREAT deal on some 418's that had maybe 50 miles on them.
One downside......at Eureka Springs....ran into 2 turns that had a series of bumps...that with the suspension that stiff, it was like hitting a washboard. NOT GOOD in a turn. Rest of the ride was great.
So....2 months ago lucked into some 444's. After putting them on....the ride was soother....but harsh at the same time.
This afternoon, I brought the preload adjusters all the way in. That made for a prefect ride. Where I live, the roads arent great, but with the progressive springs, and the preload adjusters all the way in....HUGE improvement. The best turns that I have around here, are coming on and off the interstate. I was still getting a little bit of a wobble coming out of a turn....even leaning into the turn with my body weight. So I went oldschool, and dropped the front forks 1/2 an inch. That is GREAT.......for now. Of course.....if I change the handlebars....it will be time to reassess again.
I also brought in the Can on the kerker 4-1.....so it didnt stick out as far. All in all a good day.
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