What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2
- Thread starter Buster Hymen
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desert_max
Well-Known Member
Dang Kyle. That one is missing a couple of bits, but a decent parts locker.
Most of the parts are with it just not on it. The UFO exhaust does not look to old just dirty from sitting. Hopefully in the next couple days I can clean the carbs & get some fresh gas in it
Your a blessed man to not fall in love with the machine, if it were me my whole back yard would
be packed with Vmax's LOL.
I would at least have one for each day of the week!
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sdt354
Well-Known Member
That 1st kit is very complete. I've in the past stuck to OEM for brass parts, but have used aftermarket jet block gaskets with sucsess. It's worth a look, Imho.
Well it is eather eat or keep Vmax's. Lol To be honest I really don't ride much anymore do to my neck and shoulder so the 1 Vmax and my wing is more than enough . A guy was tempting me yesterday though with an FJR 1300
A '96 or newer? I see a helmet lock. About the only things I don't see are the side panels.
New/used VMax orders:
Clean the carbs. Ultrasound. Pilot jets poked-through. Jet block gaskets, check float valve seat, replace float valve viton-tipped needles. Adjust cable slack, balance carbs. Change jetting to 147.5 if the prior owner didn't, yet.
Check gas tank for grunge or rust; coat or replace as needed. New gas filter, check gas lines, replace any suspect ones. Check fuel pump operation.
Fork seals replaced if they're leaking, hopefully, the downtubes aren't nicked-up and needing replacement.
Clean, rebuild as needed, master cylinders. Flush systems. Replace the master cylinder(s) if the rebuild doesn't 'take.' Same for the clutch slave cylinder.
Shell Rotella oil change, filter.
Brake pads inspection, replacement if needed, leaky fork seals if neglected, will ruin your brake pads.. Disassemble, clean, reassemble any sticky calipers.
Crimp-fix, wire harness. Clean any connections (especially battery cables & grounds), replace any bodged prior-owner wires. Clean switch pods if something isn't working. Take a look inside the headlight shell, for the condition of the connections, and any bodged wires. Both filaments work? Taillight, turn signals? V-Boost cycling properly on turning-on the ignition switch? V-Boost 'push in the back' over 6k RPM?
New AGM battery.
Shinkos as necessary.
Kyle's Paint Pro finish on the tins. Clean, polish and de-barnacle any surfaces needing it. Clean and re-condition the seat upholstery. An easy sale, if the bike looks-good, starts right-up, and has no operational deficiencies (pray for a decent 2nd gear).
I have the same HFT wheel chock. I'd have a Condor if I could find one cheap, but the HFT one works very-well. I added a rear brace spacing the two wheel chocks, so I can have two bikes on the trailer or in the back of a standard-size pick-up truck.
New/used VMax orders:
Clean the carbs. Ultrasound. Pilot jets poked-through. Jet block gaskets, check float valve seat, replace float valve viton-tipped needles. Adjust cable slack, balance carbs. Change jetting to 147.5 if the prior owner didn't, yet.
Check gas tank for grunge or rust; coat or replace as needed. New gas filter, check gas lines, replace any suspect ones. Check fuel pump operation.
Fork seals replaced if they're leaking, hopefully, the downtubes aren't nicked-up and needing replacement.
Clean, rebuild as needed, master cylinders. Flush systems. Replace the master cylinder(s) if the rebuild doesn't 'take.' Same for the clutch slave cylinder.
Shell Rotella oil change, filter.
Brake pads inspection, replacement if needed, leaky fork seals if neglected, will ruin your brake pads.. Disassemble, clean, reassemble any sticky calipers.
Crimp-fix, wire harness. Clean any connections (especially battery cables & grounds), replace any bodged prior-owner wires. Clean switch pods if something isn't working. Take a look inside the headlight shell, for the condition of the connections, and any bodged wires. Both filaments work? Taillight, turn signals? V-Boost cycling properly on turning-on the ignition switch? V-Boost 'push in the back' over 6k RPM?
New AGM battery.
Shinkos as necessary.
Kyle's Paint Pro finish on the tins. Clean, polish and de-barnacle any surfaces needing it. Clean and re-condition the seat upholstery. An easy sale, if the bike looks-good, starts right-up, and has no operational deficiencies (pray for a decent 2nd gear).
I have the same HFT wheel chock. I'd have a Condor if I could find one cheap, but the HFT one works very-well. I added a rear brace spacing the two wheel chocks, so I can have two bikes on the trailer or in the back of a standard-size pick-up truck.
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The bike is a 2000 model he claimed no gear issues but I have heard that before. The grab rail and rear fender are missing but that is it. It has been sitting a while. I will get it fired up this week and get 2nd gear checked. The title was signed in the wrong spot which can probably be fixed but I usually do better with parts so not a big deal to me.
Yesterday I did a quick exhaust paint job, it came out ok for the amount of time I spent on it. I’d like to have it professionally done, maybe ceramic coated but I have to many expensive hobbies going on now. The can of paint was cheap and I can paint it about 50 more times compared to having it done, I’m not cheap but frugal. Lol besides taking this header off doesn’t look like fun. 
I modified the stock bar ends to accept the Joker mirrors.
Do you happen to have a list of the parts you used to do this? I'm looking for decent bar end mirrors.. all the ones I've found look cheap. I can't see crap out of the stock mirrors.
After getting my carbs back together, motor buttoned up after valve clearance check and newly painted parts put back on. My machine is lookin GREAT, its going to be 65 degrees today an I'm going to be ready.
My bike fired right off as usual, as the temp gouge went up the bike ran worse. I tried to sync the carbs and couldn't pull good vacuum on #4. Checked for bent linkage tabs etc. nothing. I tore back through the carbs, missed a PAJ1 for a PAJ2, corrected , still ran terrible.........
I started a trouble shoot on the ignition and found coil plug wire issues on all 4 cylinders, the
little plastic two wire plug. After getting wildly varying resistance readings on the red/white wires
I had to resolder the spades on both sides of all 4 plugs, great spark but still ran like **** .....
The Forum to the rescue! I was scouring carb/ ignition posts in between brain damage breaks when I found a post about airbox boots. It hit me then that my box boot clamps were completely closing but the box felt less than snug.
I got to the bike, looked under the box and WTF! The boots were all a mushroomed mess on the
inside radius, not where you could see it when tightening the clamps. OMG I don't inspect stuff when I'm removing it or what!
Reading the post, guys were doing different things to remedy this, mine is/was to break out the Dremmel. I cut in nice deep square seats, the boots now sit deep and tight on the mouths of the carbs.
What a difference, night and day, my vacuum had been at about 3.5 @ cyl#2 and I would go around syncing from there. My meter seals down on the mouth of each velocity tube.
Now its at 6 on the meter! All the way around.
This new revelation opens a huge can of worms in the jetting department since I have been tuning the bike to a leaky boot air box. All of the little connections inside needed reconnecting too. I've only opened it to clean the panel filter once since the mod. pics
After getting the box cleaned up the bike started and synced-up great, sounds different and runs great ,Vboost is crisp like an on/off switch.
Cant wait to read the plugs and see how she's eating and breathing.
My bike fired right off as usual, as the temp gouge went up the bike ran worse. I tried to sync the carbs and couldn't pull good vacuum on #4. Checked for bent linkage tabs etc. nothing. I tore back through the carbs, missed a PAJ1 for a PAJ2, corrected , still ran terrible.........
I started a trouble shoot on the ignition and found coil plug wire issues on all 4 cylinders, the
little plastic two wire plug. After getting wildly varying resistance readings on the red/white wires
I had to resolder the spades on both sides of all 4 plugs, great spark but still ran like **** .....
The Forum to the rescue! I was scouring carb/ ignition posts in between brain damage breaks when I found a post about airbox boots. It hit me then that my box boot clamps were completely closing but the box felt less than snug.
I got to the bike, looked under the box and WTF! The boots were all a mushroomed mess on the
inside radius, not where you could see it when tightening the clamps. OMG I don't inspect stuff when I'm removing it or what!
Reading the post, guys were doing different things to remedy this, mine is/was to break out the Dremmel. I cut in nice deep square seats, the boots now sit deep and tight on the mouths of the carbs.
What a difference, night and day, my vacuum had been at about 3.5 @ cyl#2 and I would go around syncing from there. My meter seals down on the mouth of each velocity tube.
Now its at 6 on the meter! All the way around.
This new revelation opens a huge can of worms in the jetting department since I have been tuning the bike to a leaky boot air box. All of the little connections inside needed reconnecting too. I've only opened it to clean the panel filter once since the mod. pics
After getting the box cleaned up the bike started and synced-up great, sounds different and runs great ,Vboost is crisp like an on/off switch.
Cant wait to read the plugs and see how she's eating and breathing.
I'm glad that you got to the bottom of it, and were able to make it run properly.
Using starting fluid sprayed on the boots is my usual check for seal integrity. Last time it worked for me, it was an intake manifold O-ring which was bad. The spraying of intake system parts, where an increase in RPM happens, quickly and easily reveals the problem.
Just because you found one, don't stop there. There could be multiple parts gone-bad: keep spraying.
Your rubber donuts needing a grind/cut w/a Dremel suggests to me your donuts are old, and dried-out. As a no-cost fix, grinding the inside diameters of the donuts is admirable, to permit a deeper-seating, but if it was a keeper instead of a flip, I'd probably be buying new donuts. I have a jar of Vaseline I use for assembly lube. It goes on the inside of the donuts, if I have a stiff set, just a thin skim, no-need to use gobs. I use it for gaskets, to hold 'em in-place, for final assembly. Again, a thin layer is sufficient to hold the gasket, even when mounting a piece in a vertical orientation.
I always check the carb castings to ensure that the donuts are properly-seated. It's easy to fail to recognize the carb rack isn't fully seated if you're in a hurry.
(2) Pods? New air box? | Page 2 | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net) See my post #32. "Sit on-it, Potsie!" My Happy Days solution for fully-seating an airbox.
Using starting fluid sprayed on the boots is my usual check for seal integrity. Last time it worked for me, it was an intake manifold O-ring which was bad. The spraying of intake system parts, where an increase in RPM happens, quickly and easily reveals the problem.
Just because you found one, don't stop there. There could be multiple parts gone-bad: keep spraying.
Your rubber donuts needing a grind/cut w/a Dremel suggests to me your donuts are old, and dried-out. As a no-cost fix, grinding the inside diameters of the donuts is admirable, to permit a deeper-seating, but if it was a keeper instead of a flip, I'd probably be buying new donuts. I have a jar of Vaseline I use for assembly lube. It goes on the inside of the donuts, if I have a stiff set, just a thin skim, no-need to use gobs. I use it for gaskets, to hold 'em in-place, for final assembly. Again, a thin layer is sufficient to hold the gasket, even when mounting a piece in a vertical orientation.
I always check the carb castings to ensure that the donuts are properly-seated. It's easy to fail to recognize the carb rack isn't fully seated if you're in a hurry.
(2) Pods? New air box? | Page 2 | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net) See my post #32. "Sit on-it, Potsie!" My Happy Days solution for fully-seating an airbox.
Harry76
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I used the Joker brand bar end mirrors and turned the stock bar ends down to fit the mirrors and powder coated the ends.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/joker-machine-cafe-bar-end-mirror
crynool
Well-Known Member
Been sick but was determined to go out in the garage today. I put the 2000 I just bought on the lift and pulled the carbs and started cleaning them . I found screws and a spring missing on the choke linkage they had the 170's in the mains and the 150's in the Paj 2's. It does look like someone just put a new stator in it. I also found a bonus I did not even see when I picked it up. It has a nice braced swingarm. The picture of carbs is before cleaning.
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user 75206
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Haha! My better half is barely 4'11". So we're looking at the Ryker's & Spiders
I fee ya. My better half is barley 4'11" so we're looking at the Can-Am's. That way she can haul all our bs too
Now that is a good deal.Haha! My better half is barely 4'11". So we're looking at the Ryker's & Spiders
I fee ya. My better half is barley 4'11" so we're looking at the Can-Am's. That way she can haul all our bs too
desert_max
Well-Known Member
Dang Kyle, you must have the Midas touch. The “bonuses” that I find when I get them home that I have missed are usually unpleasant ones…
