What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

[one2dmax]

Ouch

 

[Rollie]

Grass is much better than concrete or asphalt , usually associated with entrance & exit ramps . ( But I quit using it decades ago :rofl_200: ) .

 

[sdt354]

The rain isn't letting up. So, time for plugs and fuel filter. I go through a lot of fuel filters. at least 2-3 a season. Gasahol is crapping them up quick. I just tried a clear Fram filter for $3.30. If no problems I'll post the part number. The steeler was killing me for $20+.
Steve-o

 

[DMAN999]

The rain isn't letting up. So, time for plugs and fuel filter. I go through a lot of fuel filters. at least 2-3 a season. Gasahol is crapping them up quick. I just tried a clear Fram filter for $3.30. If no problems I'll post the part number. The steeler was killing me for $20+.
Steve-o

I've been using the $3 NAPA Gold 3011 for years and it work just as well as the OEM filter, so that Fram filter will probably be fine as well.
You can see my post for more info here:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=23700&highlight=NAPA

 

[Fire-medic]

Thanks to the forum, I got from another member thru Kyle a Kosman rear 5.5" X 17" wheel. Today I installed Bridgestone Battleax BT-023 steel-belted radials f & r. Since I had this spring installed Bridgestone bias tires, I think I have a fair idea of a back-to-back comparison. It cost me about $700 to purchase the rear wheel, the tires and to have them mounted & balanced. I removed & installed the wheels myself. Then I went for a ride.

First, the radials feel similar to me to a new set of quality bias-ply tires, but better, more-precise. I scuffed-in the tires by transitioning side to side down the road, and took it easy on turns. On the interstate, I let it rip after a bit. The sensation I had was that as speeds increased, the feeling of feedback I got from the radials was superior to the bias-plys. This only increased w/speed. Because the height of the radial is a bit less than the -90-series stock bias-ply, the gearing effectively is a bit shorter. So, quicker acceleration. Since I don't run 140+ I don't worry about the theoretical loss of top-end.

I didn't have any curvy roads, just interstate on & off-ramps, so since I was on newly-mounted tires, I didn't press too-hard, but I did feel more-stable in the cornering. I think this will increase as I gain confidence in the tires & add mileage. The tracking seemed to be easier than w/the bias tires. I was interested in seeing if grooved or broken or uneven pavement would feel different, but didn't encounter any WI-quality crappy pavement to experience.

Bottom-line, if you have the $$ to spend, I think it's a quality ride improvement that is worth the investment, Would I spend $2,000 for Carrozzeria's? I would save that towards a Gen II instead. Then again, the way my bike is turning-out, I don't need to tie-up $13,000+ in something like that. I've probably spent a bit less than $500/year on my twenty-year-old bike I have owned since 1993, not counting gas, and even if I did count gas @ an average of $3.00/gallon over the last 19 years of ownershop and 32 mpg, for the mileage I have on it and everything I have spent, I barely break $12,000, including the bike purchase price, 19 years of tags & registrations, maintenance, including tires, oil, filters, batteries, brake pads & etc. (nearly all done by myself) and what I have on it currently. I have a bunch of stuff waiting in the wings to install, or stuff on the way, (thanks Gannon!) that would add somewhat to that, but I think that's a good deal for nearly twenty years of fun and transportation. It took me back & forth to work and to graduate school, along w/a BMW R100RT I bought the same year. I sold the BMW but still have the VMax, and I may never sell it.

So, if you are thinking about the radial upgrade, I say, "yes!" If you can find a used rear wheel & re-use your front, you should be able to do it for less than $1,000. I think that once I spend more time on my bike, I may surprise a few of the sportbike riders around here. Remember, it's how you do it w/what you've got, not what some professional racer does w/your brand of bike that makes people exclaim, "cool bike!" And then the inevitable from the unknowing, "what is it?"

The Legend :biglaugh:

 

[Ost85vmax]

Took off my stock tach/temp/light assembly and started planning on how to fet the new gauges in. Going to put aftermarket tach and temp gauges along with custom leds for the indicator lights. So far i got the tach mounted, but now have decided to make an entire new face plate to spread things out a little better. Heres a pic with just the tach in.

 

[Travolous]

Thanks to the forum, I got from another member thru Kyle a Kosman rear 5.5" X 17" wheel. Today I installed Bridgestone Battleax BT-023 steel-belted radials f & r. Since I had this spring installed Bridgestone bias tires, I think I have a fair idea of a back-to-back comparison. It cost me about $700 to purchase the rear wheel, the tires and to have them mounted & balanced. I removed & installed the wheels myself. Then I went for a ride.

First, the radials feel similar to me to a new set of quality bias-ply tires, but better, more-precise. I scuffed-in the tires by transitioning side to side down the road, and took it easy on turns. On the interstate, I let it rip after a bit. The sensation I had was that as speeds increased, the feeling of feedback I got from the radials was superior to the bias-plys. This only increased w/speed. Because the height of the radial is a bit less than the -90-series stock bias-ply, the gearing effectively is a bit shorter. So, quicker acceleration. Since I don't run 140+ I don't worry about the theoretical loss of top-end.

I didn't have any curvy roads, just interstate on & off-ramps, so since I was on newly-mounted tires, I didn't press too-hard, but I did feel more-stable in the cornering. I think this will increase as I gain confidence in the tires & add mileage. The tracking seemed to be easier than w/the bias tires. I was interested in seeing if grooved or broken or uneven pavement would feel different, but didn't encounter any WI-quality crappy pavement to experience.

Bottom-line, if you have the $$ to spend, I think it's a quality ride improvement that is worth the investment, Would I spend $2,000 for Carrozzeria's? I would save that towards a Gen II instead. Then again, the way my bike is turning-out, I don't need to tie-up $13,000+ in something like that. I've probably spent a bit less than $500/year on my twenty-year-old bike I have owned since 1993, not counting gas, and even if I did count gas @ an average of $3.00/gallon over the last 19 years of ownershop and 32 mpg, for the mileage I have on it and everything I have spent, I barely break $12,000, including the bike purchase price, 19 years of tags & registrations, maintenance, including tires, oil, filters, batteries, brake pads & etc. (nearly all done by myself) and what I have on it currently. I have a bunch of stuff waiting in the wings to install, or stuff on the way, (thanks Gannon!) that would add somewhat to that, but I think that's a good deal for nearly twenty years of fun and transportation. It took me back & forth to work and to graduate school, along w/a BMW R100RT I bought the same year. I sold the BMW but still have the VMax, and I may never sell it.

So, if you are thinking about the radial upgrade, I say, "yes!" If you can find a used rear wheel & re-use your front, you should be able to do it for less than $1,000. I think that once I spend more time on my bike, I may surprise a few of the sportbike riders around here. Remember, it's how you do it w/what you've got, not what some professional racer does w/your brand of bike that makes people exclaim, "cool bike!" And then the inevitable from the unknowing, "what is it?"

The Legend :biglaugh:

Wow, nice to see it worked out for you. I too have thoroughly been enjoying my new rear setup. I dont know how much difference my 200 size tire is compared to what you are running, but It feels so much smoother going around turns and sharp, low speed turns like my coul-de-sac.

 

[Fire-medic]

"Travolous," I went w/a 160/60 x 17" rear as I found an insane deal from a track racer on a Bridgestone he couldn't use. In my reading, the smaller dia. is supposed to make side-to-side transitions easier to initiate and from which to recover. As to the width inside the swingarm, I have about 1/8"+ on the driveshaft side. I don't know if a 170 would fit, though those here say it will. For now I am happy w/what I have. Maybe I will get a spare swingarm & practice a bit of fabbing skills w/a friend who has a TIG setup. The next few rides I should be able to see what the real difference is, as I think I put enough initial miles on them to lose the release compound from the manufacturing process. I don't need to hammer them right-away, but I will build-up my experience to their limits. As I said, I did feel more-secure in 5th gear speeds. I have been riding a radial-shod sportbike for 24 years, so I know what a bike can do w/them. I think the real test is what confidence can I generate once I finish the front-end kit install, where I have aftermarket f & r suspension?

 

[squib]

no need. I have a 190 17 in my stock swinging arm

 

[sdt354]

Thanks to the forum, I got from another member thru Kyle a Kosman rear 5.5" X 17" wheel. Today I installed Bridgestone Battleax BT-023 steel-belted radials f & r. Since I had this spring installed Bridgestone bias tires, I think I have a fair idea of a back-to-back comparison. It cost me about $700 to purchase the rear wheel, the tires and to have them mounted & balanced. I removed & installed the wheels myself. Then I went for a ride.

First, the radials feel similar to me to a new set of quality bias-ply tires, but better, more-precise. I scuffed-in the tires by transitioning side to side down the road, and took it easy on turns. On the interstate, I let it rip after a bit. The sensation I had was that as speeds increased, the feeling of feedback I got from the radials was superior to the bias-plys. This only increased w/speed. Because the height of the radial is a bit less than the -90-series stock bias-ply, the gearing effectively is a bit shorter. So, quicker acceleration. Since I don't run 140+ I don't worry about the theoretical loss of top-end.

I didn't have any curvy roads, just interstate on & off-ramps, so since I was on newly-mounted tires, I didn't press too-hard, but I did feel more-stable in the cornering. I think this will increase as I gain confidence in the tires & add mileage. The tracking seemed to be easier than w/the bias tires. I was interested in seeing if grooved or broken or uneven pavement would feel different, but didn't encounter any WI-quality crappy pavement to experience.

Bottom-line, if you have the $$ to spend, I think it's a quality ride improvement that is worth the investment, Would I spend $2,000 for Carrozzeria's? I would save that towards a Gen II instead. Then again, the way my bike is turning-out, I don't need to tie-up $13,000+ in something like that. I've probably spent a bit less than $500/year on my twenty-year-old bike I have owned since 1993, not counting gas, and even if I did count gas @ an average of $3.00/gallon over the last 19 years of ownershop and 32 mpg, for the mileage I have on it and everything I have spent, I barely break $12,000, including the bike purchase price, 19 years of tags & registrations, maintenance, including tires, oil, filters, batteries, brake pads & etc. (nearly all done by myself) and what I have on it currently. I have a bunch of stuff waiting in the wings to install, or stuff on the way, (thanks Gannon!) that would add somewhat to that, but I think that's a good deal for nearly twenty years of fun and transportation. It took me back & forth to work and to graduate school, along w/a BMW R100RT I bought the same year. I sold the BMW but still have the VMax, and I may never sell it.

So, if you are thinking about the radial upgrade, I say, "yes!" If you can find a used rear wheel & re-use your front, you should be able to do it for less than $1,000. I think that once I spend more time on my bike, I may surprise a few of the sportbike riders around here. Remember, it's how you do it w/what you've got, not what some professional racer does w/your brand of bike that makes people exclaim, "cool bike!" And then the inevitable from the unknowing, "what is it?"

The Legend :biglaugh:

It can be done on the cheap for sure. I did it for under a G note too, with all new bearings and a different OEM front wheel included. There is no comparison between radial and bias. Once I rode a bike or two with radials I was determined to get it done. Not too many go back to bias after fitting radials (I've only herd of one). It's the best mod I've done. It dispels the myth that a Vmax is only a straight line bike. The acceleration increase with the lower tire is an added bonus for me. And mileage is still very decent.
Steve-o

 

[sdt354]

no need. I have a 190 17 in my stock swinging arm

Good to hear, I've still got plenty of room with a 180 mounted. Maybe when it's tire time?
Steve-o

 

[mr.maxx]

time 4 sum electrical upgrades:biglaugh::biglaugh:unk:

 

[CustomMax]

Put my new Vgas throttle cables on and one return has way too much play!? I'm a little confused, never had an issue like that especially cause they join at a junction so I guess I'll have to pull it back off and figure out why. Also resolderd some electrical connections just to be sure while I have the bike so torn down. Was thinking of putting on the new chrome oil pan I got from Sean while I wait for my gear/shafts but think I'll do the pan over this winter. I've been bikeless for well over 2 months and am ready to lose my mind or as my girl says I'm a little late for that dance, lol, but very anxiously waiting for my parts so I can do some serious fall rides this year and have to just be patient and keep telling myself how in Pa the Autumn season is beautiful to ride thru the mountains and see the leaves and am planning a day trip to the flight 93 memorial as soon as I get it all back together. A BIG " THANK YOU" to Sean for helping me get this beautiful ***** roadworthy again. And if anyone on this forum doesn't buy their parts from him they gotta be crazy especially for as much as he supports any and everybody who uses this site. You only find people like Sean, Rick, and a few others that supply parts on here if your lucky once in a lifetime and I found at least 8-10 friends I hope to keep for life. What a cool place. Thanks, Ed

 

[The Beekeeper]

Well Ed, when you get her back on the road we expect pics of your trip through the beautiful Pa mountains!........Looking foreward to riding with ya next year!..................Tom.

 

[schudaddie]

After installing my new adjustable vboost controller ( thanks Sean) I had to decide where to put the led that indicates when the boost is on. I didn't want it pointing straight at me as that would be like looking into a LED flashlight. so I took apart the gauges and drilled a 1/4 hole in the compartment where the blank is and pointed it towards the tach. Add a little silicone to the wire and below the LED just to hold it in place and now my tach has a blue tint to it when the boost comes on. It might be a little dim in the daylight but sure looks good in the garage. :biglaugh:
later, bill

 

[Rollie]

After installing my new adjustable vboost controller ( thanks Sean) I had to decide where to put the led that indicates when the boost is on. I didn't want it pointing straight at me as that would be like looking into a LED flashlight. so I took apart the gauges and drilled a 1/4 hole in the compartment where the blank is and pointed it towards the tach. Add a little silicone to the wire and below the LED just to hold it in place and now my tach has a blue tint to it when the boost comes on. It might be a little dim in the daylight but sure looks good in the garage. :biglaugh:
later, bill

Looks very nice. Might steal that one. :rofl_200:

 

[KJShover]

Washed it, started working on a mounting bracket and looked for locations to put the CO2 tank, Then started working on a couple of videos.

 

[johnpclynch]

After installing my new adjustable vboost controller ( thanks Sean) I had to decide where to put the led that indicates when the boost is on. I didn't want it pointing straight at me as that would be like looking into a LED flashlight. so I took apart the gauges and drilled a 1/4 hole in the compartment where the blank is and pointed it towards the tach. Add a little silicone to the wire and below the LED just to hold it in place and now my tach has a blue tint to it when the boost comes on. It might be a little dim in the daylight but sure looks good in the garage. :biglaugh:
later, bill

Nice, I like the way it lights up the clocks
And it gives me an idea - a few more LEDs and diodes and you could change the color of all the dash lights when the vboost engages...

 

[schudaddie]

Nice, I like the way it lights up the clocks
And it gives me an idea - a few more LEDs and diodes and you could change the color of all the dash lights when the vboost engages...

Now that would be cool.... put me down for, "I Like It"....unk:
later, bill

 

[tugla]

put on the newer style rimes with the red line, new rotors all around off of flea bay, added the european bars, black ofcourse (thanks sean), bar end mirrors new led running/brake light and also the new black mark's 4 into 2 2.25...... they sound wicked at idle and speed, cant wait for the baffling to wear out.