Well, after cleaning the garage I got bored and started playing with my Ignition.
I got some decent detonation at curve 5, My particular setup responds well to curves 2 and 3. Curve 4 gave me a good midrange but started acting funny in the upper RPM like curve 5 was doing.
I'm leaving it at curve 3 for the street and when I use the squeeze when I go down south in a couple-three months I'll be using curve 7 or 8. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it then.
Curve three woke this thing up, it pulled strong all the way through my midrange and well into the upper end until I came up on the rev-limiter.
I also readjusted my shift lever lower to aid in more positive shifts. Looked at my new airshifter and a place to mount it. Dunno if I'm going to rebuild it or replace the clevis. My dipshit nephew put it outside when I was out of town and its in pretty pissy shape.
Ordered guage bling in the form of an oil pressure guage to complement a pressure switch. For those wondering the switch will shut off the bike if the oil pressure drops below a certain level. It will work indipendantly from the low oil light switch and wired inline with the oil pressure guage.
Something you might want to look at is the curve sheet from Dyna, it doesn't really jump out at you but;
The advance curves: 1 through 5 are not in order of highest advance, in order of advance they are 1, 2, 3, 5, 4
4 being more advance than 5
I called thier tech line and talked to them about it and they said it was not a misprint or typo; that it really is that way.
Mine runs best on 3, sometimes when I've run 104 at the strip I ran it at 5, but to be honest it really ran better on 93 octane and curve 3.
Oil pressure switch.
I did this once and got rid of it.
I used a 5 volt pressure sensor (expensive) and fed the signal into my Dynojet Wideband Commander and programmed it to throw me a warning light using an autometer shift light. The Wideband Commander has a programmable output that can be set up using any of the available inputs it's looking at.
I set it up to look at RPM's and Oil
Pressure and programmed it to only throw a warning light when RPM's were over 3500 and oil pressure was less than 20psi
The pressure sensor required 3 AA batteries to power it since I couldn't find one that uses a 12 volt supply
It really turned out to be more trouble than it was worth. I ended up just using the RPM trigger to operate one of my shift lights and canned the sensor and all that crap.....
I considered a simple pressure switch but since the Vmax only makes 3-5psi at idle it created a barrier to setting it up for simple on off operation.