02Moneypit
Well-Known Member
:worthy:unk:Looking good razor, looking good.Soon you will be burning up the road again.:biglaugh:
Tried to change my main jets, drill out the slides, and put the new springs in....only to find out that I couldn't bust loose the float bowl drain screws. Then I also noticed that the screws holding the covers over the slides weren't normal screws....I needed a tamper-proof torx that I didn't have. Then I couldn't even get the carbs off the engine either. They wouldn't budge. So I said piss on it, took it to the dealership, and my buddy is gonna take care of it for me.
I was able to get a portion of Sean's muscle kit installed though. It wasn't a COMPLETELY useless day.
:worthy:unk:Looking good razor, looking good.Soon you will be burning up the road again.:biglaugh:
I just used the torx that would fit in the tamper proof screws , I managed to have enough bit to break the screws loose with an impact screw driver.
:surprise:I would have to sell half my bike to pay for the insurance rates we have here in Manitoba...:bang head:,..
I hear ya KJ,...it's been a loooong winter.
Those are nice looking, are they for the gen.1 ?? `cause I would like a pair of those for my 2000 max.Also made a bit more progress on a lil project I'm tinkering with at work when it's slack. ,...whatcha think?...
About to head to Autozone for some oil and SeaFoam; figure can't hurt to give it the SF treatment, probably never been done by previous owner.
Next up, steering bearing adjustment; might need some forum help on that one my first time.
herd the same with neck bearings on harleys and im sure it goes for all bikes...even a bounce is ok...so they say...with everything connected ..all,the lines cables...its nothing set in stone...mine would bounce a few times and was steady as a rock.....good guide line for not being to tight.....its a little trick that been around before we where all bornDon't put seafoam in unless you actually need it - it's mostly alcohol and will eat your inner rubber parts eventually.
Carb sync is dead easy and takes about 10mns from start to finish, full info is here: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3959
Steering bearing adjustment - use Sean's technique. Basically loosen the big nut top center of triple tree and the upper triple tree fork clamp bolts. Then put the bike on its center stand and have some1 heavy sit on the pillion seat so that the front wheel is in the air. From dead center, give the handlebars a little nudge so that they fall to a stop (check both sides). Tighten the lower steering castle nut using a drift and hammer, a little at a time, until the bars don't bounce off the stop at the end of their fall. They should fall smoothly and freely, but just hit the stop not bounce off it.
its a little trick that been around before we where all born
What I did today: Got the Max inspected (required in TX), passed with flying colors; all the young'ns at the shop loved the stock flame paint job. Went to the tax office and applied for TX title and got my license plate, woo hoo!
Also ordered a Carbtune Pro carb sync tool; damn good deal with the current exchange rates. The tool is costing me HALF what the freaking local Yammy shop wanted to sync my carbs ONCE. :clapping: I've never sync'd carbs, but it looks like a cinch on the Max with this tool.
About to head to Autozone for some oil and SeaFoam; figure can't hurt to give it the SF treatment, probably never been done by previous owner.
Next up, steering bearing adjustment; might need some forum help on that one my first time.
Don't put seafoam in unless you actually need it - it's mostly alcohol and will eat your inner rubber parts eventually.
Carb sync is dead easy and takes about 10mns from start to finish, full info is here: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3959
Steering bearing adjustment - use Sean's technique. Basically loosen the big nut top center of triple tree and the upper triple tree fork clamp bolts. Then put the bike on its center stand and have some1 heavy sit on the pillion seat so that the front wheel is in the air. From dead center, give the handlebars a little nudge so that they fall to a stop (check both sides). Tighten the lower steering castle nut using a drift and hammer, a little at a time, until the bars don't bounce off the stop at the end of their fall. They should fall smoothly and freely, but just hit the stop not bounce off it.
hmmm see i took the top triple tree off and the handbars and everything.. you don't gotta disconnect the risers from the top triple tree?
depends how you wanna do it. I've done it a few different ways - I did take the handlebars off altogether and rested them on the airbox (take the faux-tank off first!) when I did the washer swap, but to simply adjust the castle nuts, as long as you have a suitable wrench to loosen the top tripletree nut you can just leave them on. If you're gonna torque the top nut properly the bars will have to come off for access, but you can also just do it up 'fucking tight'. :biglaugh:
Thanks for the advice! I'll give BG44k a try next go-round. BTW, I checked out the MSDS for SeaFoam, and it's not mostly alcohol. It's 40-60% "Pale Oil", 25-35% Naptha, and 10-20% IPA, which I think is Isopropyl Alcohol.
So it definitely has some alcohol in it, but barely more than lots of 10% gasohol being sold lately. It's mostly light oil and Naptha, which is a strong industrial solvent.
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