What else can I do for the 45mph wobble?

[gamorg02]

my bike has right under 6k miles on it... i guesss they may have walked from initial install...

the procedure looks pretty straightforward except for one part.. when ur talking about the spring scale.

how are you supposed to keep the forks straight if you are pulling on just one fork? that would cause that one to start pushing forward? wouldn't u want to maybe tie a shoe string around both forks and then pull?

Also, what do u mean when u see the fender arc a bit? does that mean when the tip of the fender basically moves an inch forward/down? seems like a lot of play...

i'm gonna have to figure out a way to get the torque on that first nut. either make a tool or something.... don't really have accesss to the tools to make the socket...

hey danny how hard was it to make a square hole in a spanner wrench?

Very simple Garrett.....I'll send you mine! How hard was that!! :biglaugh:

well that would just be phenominal!

 

[[email protected]]

All right Abe and Garrett, I've got sure fire way, guarranteed way to get rid of that 45 MPH wobble.




GO FASTER, LOL:biglaugh::rofl_200:

J/K guys. I know, it is an annoying feeling to have that wobble there. I had it on mine last summer. After reading the forum here and familiarizing myself with the bike over the winter I decided to try Sean's method. I must say it has worked for me so far.

 

[gamorg02]

mine really isn't a huge deal, the two fixed above helped a bit last night but hasn't fixed it completely

its just one of those things. what exactly is sean's method? the bounce test?

 

[dannymax]

well that would just be phenominal!

Just PM me your address when you're ready to tackle it. Remember to use the torque wrench at right angles to the spanner handle or you will have to calculate new torque values due to the add'l. leverage.

 

[gamorg02]

Just PM me your address when you're ready to tackle it. Remember to use the torque wrench at right angles to the spanner handle or you will have to calculate new torque values due to the add'l. leverage.

awesome danny. gotta get my hands a tube scale. ebay here i come haha. shouldn't be too difficult. just waiting on some confirmation of the procedure as well....

if all else fails.. i will be trying sallymax's wheel. if then all fails i'm gonna see if people wanna try out a damper.... a 2k3 bike with under 6k miles should not be THIS hard to troubleshoot haha.. godo thing i got all you guys watching my back...

i guess i should probably also check my bearings, but i mean @ 5700 miles is it really possible they are bad? there is NO binding/scraping/otherwise bad noises or clicks coming from turning the bars..

 

[dannymax]

awesome danny. gotta get my hands a tube scale. ebay here i come haha. shouldn't be too difficult. just waiting on some confirmation of the procedure as well....

if all else fails.. i will be trying sallymax's wheel. if then all fails i'm gonna see if people wanna try out a damper.... a 2k3 bike with under 6k miles should not be THIS hard to troubleshoot haha.. godo thing i got all you guys watching my back...

i guess i should probably also check my bearings, but i mean @ 5700 miles is it really possible they are bad? there is NO binding/scraping/otherwise bad noises or clicks coming from turning the bars..

Garrett....with 'brain deads' running the machines and the QC folks having 4th grade educations, anything's possible.

But, don't go there, you'll end up a neurotic mess! :biglaugh:

 

[[email protected]]

what exactly is sean's method? the bounce test?

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?p=44062&highlight=sean+method#post44062

give this a read.

 

[gamorg02]

Garrett....with 'brain deads' running the machines and the QC folks having 4th grade educations, anything's possible.

But, don't go there, you'll end up a neurotic mess! :biglaugh:

i hear ya. i'm going to assume the bearings are fine until i've either ruled everything out or epoxied my triple trees straight!

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?p=44062&highlight=sean+method#post44062

give this a read.

oh yea... ok sean's method is the typical bounce test. i've done this a few times now. it helps everytime i redo it but doesn't solve the problem completely


the shindy damper guys said i could buy and if i didn't like i could return for a full refund, so maybe its worth a look as well on top of all of this...

i got their instructions. i don't like cutting the plastic piece but could always leave it off until i'm sure i want to keep the thing... also may have to play aroudn with the t-boost switch placement.

i've attached the instructions for anyone who wants to take a look...

 

[4gasem]

That Shandy one sticks out the side... That's OLD school.

 

[gamorg02]

it certainly does. i do like the looks of it tho.. but i can find a better use of $200 for cosmetic goodies if it doesn't do anything....

 

[gamorg02]

gonna try to do this soon, hey guys any one of these u recommend me getting?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Shimano-20-Lb-F...66:2|39:1|72:1240|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tubular-Spring-...s=65:15|66:2|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50

 

[gamorg02]

abe did u end up grabbing the damper?

 

[82ndCowboy]

Mine went away after a new front tire and tightening the steering head.

 

[gamorg02]

i'm hoping its the wobbly shinko. will know mid july thanks to danny for sure. if thats the case i love the look of the 120 and gonna have to bite the bullet and do a 120 metz.

 

[gamorg02]

OK SO I FINALLY MADE PROGRESS...

before today, tried a bunch of adjustments on the steering head nuts, but it only got better, no disappear.... also forks are lowered 5/8", furbur fix, frame braces and running a shinko 120.

today i upped my pressure to 40 psi. i also using dannys tool cranked down on the bottom nut. i then loosened it by playing back and forth maybe 40-50 times. i then loosened all the way. then torqued back down until it felt like it should

took her out. WAYYY too loose, worse than before.

cranked it down def on the tight side and it was GREAT! only problem was the slow speed weave, so i know it was too tight. loosened them just a smidge and the low speed weave went away and so does my wobble, hands off issue!! only time i see a wobble at any time now is if i do the hands off bars thing and i hit a problem in the pavement b/t 45 and 50, like a pothole or a big crack or something. which i think is not atypical of most bikes to wobble once they hit bad pavement and hands are off the bars, right?

 

[dannymax]

OK SO I FINALLY MADE PROGRESS...

before today, tried a bunch of adjustments on the steering head nuts, but it only got better, no disappear.... also forks are lowered 5/8", furbur fix, frame braces and running a shinko 120.

today i upped my pressure to 40 psi. i also using dannys tool cranked down on the bottom nut. i then loosened it by playing back and forth maybe 40-50 times. i then loosened all the way. then torqued back down until it felt like it should

took her out. WAYYY too loose, worse than before.

cranked it down def on the tight side and it was GREAT! only problem was the slow speed weave, so i know it was too tight. loosened them just a smidge and the low speed weave went away and so does my wobble, hands off issue!! only time i see a wobble at any time now is if i do the hands off bars thing and i hit a problem in the pavement b/t 45 and 50, like a pothole or a big crack or something. which i think is not atypical of most bikes to wobble once they hit bad pavement and hands are off the bars, right?

Good deal Garrett!! :clapping: Glad you made some progress!

As far as hitting a bump or road seam @ 45 - 50...my '06 will occasionally give a slight wobble under those conditions, I don't pay any attetion to it. The '99 never wobbles under any conditions...and it has twice the mileage...go figure. :confused2:

 

[gamorg02]

yea danny i'm stoked! your tool actually made all the difference, really helped to move it just a bit more. i'm going to look into making one. how big of a pain is it to get that square hole?

just got back from a 30+ mile ride, and no wobbles whatsoever. it ONLY will wobble on road seems in 2nd. all other gears rock solid! just gotta keep it up now! so stoked!!! maybe a steering damper now just to calm down the shakes when i shift hard n such.

also brought her up to 120 and shes solid and sweepers at about 100 were solid too!

 

[4gasem]

Now lower the pressure in the tire to the stock specs like it should be and see where you are. Remember running 40 cold means it'll be closer to 43-44 when hot. Sorry but that's just to high.

I can ride over bumps with no hands and don't get anything. I think the radials, wheels and suspension upgrade go a long way towards fixing this.

Chris

 

[Shuriken]

Good deal Garrett!! :clapping: Glad you made some progress!

As far as hitting a bump or road seam @ 45 - 50...my '06 will occasionally give a slight wobble under those conditions, I don't pay any attetion to it. The '99 never wobbles under any conditions...and it has twice the mileage...go figure. :confused2:

I solved the "45mph decel wobble" by just replacing the front tire. However, I do get an uncomfortable wobble if I bring the front end up a bit during a wheelie and then bring it down slightly off center. The bike doesn't like that....

Also, if I'm changing lanes at 80 or 90 it's not fun, or if I wiggle the bars left to right (wiggle, not turn) at highway speed. I also have the 80+mph weave/wobble.

I have not even had time to mess with the steering head yet...

 

[one2dmax]

38-42 is ok for tire pressure.

Sean