Thank you for answering my question. I appreciate it.Your reading of 0.4 ohms would appear OK.
Rode into work this evening and wouldnt you know it, the battery was drained after a 30 mile ride. I had to push her the last 3/4mile. Terrible.EDIT: problem not solved.
"Problem Solved Yamaha should fire the engineer who thought a crimp was a good idea. All it took was the ground and positive from the R/R to be hardwired to the battery with fuse."
I wil check this out for sure. But an odd thing. I charged it up at the work(yes i was prepared and had an extension cord and my charger in my back pack) fuelled up 3.8 gallons(that was close) and rocketed straight home down the expressway instead of taking the side roads. No issues. Left it sitting for a couple days and she fired up like nothing was wrong. Checked my ground wires everything was tight. Next install is going to be a NOCO 700cca 8AH 100WH NLP 30 battery with a disconnect on the luggage rack. So if the smaller NOCO 400cca in the battery box doesnt get me going i can flip a switch and boom Auxillary power to get me home.On your 3 stator leads check from each one to ground-your meter should show OL or infinity ohms. There is no check for this in the factory manual. If any of them are not OL your stator is shorted to ground and needs to be replaced along with the regulator now. Mine tested at .4 0hms between all leads and it was shorted to ground.
Tight doesn't mean low or zero resistance - you need to measure resistance and if necessary clean the mating surfaces.Checked my ground wires everything was tight. Next install is going to be a NOCO 700cca 8AH 100WH NLP 30 battery with a disconnect on the luggage rack. So if the smaller NOCO 400cca in the battery box doesn't get me going i can flip a switch and boom Auxillary power to get me home.
I work 14 on, 2 off. Limited play time with 4 kids. Pulled ground connections from frame and engine, used a piece of scotchbright and cleaned the mating surfaces just in case. Second battery was install is soo easy and it helps I had it. It powered my fish finder on my kayak last year.Tight doesn't mean low or zero resistance - you need to measure resistance and if necessary clean the mating surfaces.
Why go to the expense and complexity of buying and installing a second battery when it would appear that you haven't diagnosed what is causing your problem?
Rather than take a scatter gun approach it is far quicker and cheaper to conduct diagnosis in a structured and logical manner.
Hint: Work through the attachment in post #10.
Fair enough but it does imply that offering any more advice would be a waste of time.
Your choice of how you proceed of course, but IMO rather than work round the problem it would be far better to identify the root cause and fix the issue.
Took the battery to brick and mortar before work. It is not the battery.Load-test the battery.
The R/R was weak. Diodes were good. idle charge was 13.xDid you check the rectifier diodes per Fire Medics post above? Did you check the AC voltages on each leg while running and plugged in? did you check the AC voltages on each leg unplugged while running? I think you will find your answer somewhere in these 3 questions.
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