Which Wire?
- Thread starter Stramn
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Yes inside the wire loom, you have to remove the black plastic cover for a bit, then you'll see the crimp to solder.
Blow this up and make a laminated copy, you will be using this often.
FYI, the '85-'89 uses two pick-up coils (5 wires) for the ignition, while the '90-'07 uses one pick-up coil (2 wires). Crank rotors are different, ignition box is different, and the wire harness is different. Of course, the pick-up coils are different too.
Blow this up and make a laminated copy, you will be using this often.
FYI, the '85-'89 uses two pick-up coils (5 wires) for the ignition, while the '90-'07 uses one pick-up coil (2 wires). Crank rotors are different, ignition box is different, and the wire harness is different. Of course, the pick-up coils are different too.
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okay. I found the connection point.
after i bought and charged the battery (li-on) without starting it sits at 12.6
while its cold and running if i rev it to 5k i get 12.8... it has a new style finnes R/R but i'm worried its on the stock harness for the power and the ground is on the frame under the side cover. when i put the volt meter to the R/R power and ground on the frame i get 12.x volts usually .2-.3 lower than battery voltage and eventually the bike dies when it gets to 10.x volts. Every time i start the bike the "idle" voltage drops .2v
the previous owner provided me with proof he did the stator and R/R in winter 22 could it realy have died since then?
after i bought and charged the battery (li-on) without starting it sits at 12.6
while its cold and running if i rev it to 5k i get 12.8... it has a new style finnes R/R but i'm worried its on the stock harness for the power and the ground is on the frame under the side cover. when i put the volt meter to the R/R power and ground on the frame i get 12.x volts usually .2-.3 lower than battery voltage and eventually the bike dies when it gets to 10.x volts. Every time i start the bike the "idle" voltage drops .2v
the previous owner provided me with proof he did the stator and R/R in winter 22 could it realy have died since then?
Use the factory manual I sent you, 'Questions answered there.'
Start at chap. 7 p. 17 which is p320 if you use the .pdf page counter.
CHARGING VOLTAGE TEST1. Remove:*Seat
2. Connect: Tester To battery terminals.
3. Start the engine and accelerate to about2,000 or more. Generator voItage
4. Measure: Out of specification Check battery, stator coil, and Generator Voltage: 14.5
Never disconnect the wires from the battery while the generator is operating, otherwise the voltage across the generator terminals will increase and damage the semiconductors
Your reading of 0.4 ohms would appear OK.
Start at chap. 7 p. 17 which is p320 if you use the .pdf page counter.
CHARGING VOLTAGE TEST1. Remove:*Seat
2. Connect: Tester To battery terminals.
3. Start the engine and accelerate to about2,000 or more. Generator voItage
4. Measure: Out of specification Check battery, stator coil, and Generator Voltage: 14.5
Never disconnect the wires from the battery while the generator is operating, otherwise the voltage across the generator terminals will increase and damage the semiconductors
Your reading of 0.4 ohms would appear OK.
Thank you for answering my question. I appreciate it.
Looks like this bike does not have the crimp fixe done. I'll be building a fused bypass like I have seen on this page once I acquire a couple female blade connectors to go from the R/R to the battery. Thankfully I have an inline fuse 30a and some 10g AWS already.
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EDIT: problem not solved.
"Problem Solved Yamaha should fire the engineer who thought a crimp was a good idea. All it took was the ground and positive from the R/R to be hardwired to the battery with fuse."
"Problem Solved Yamaha should fire the engineer who thought a crimp was a good idea. All it took was the ground and positive from the R/R to be hardwired to the battery with fuse."
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Rode into work this evening and wouldnt you know it, the battery was drained after a 30 mile ride. I had to push her the last 3/4mile. Terrible.
Sounds like a new R/R is in order. Follow the trouble-shooting of the charging system in the service manual.
If you haven't worked through the attached suggest that would help diagnose where the issue is.
I would also ensure all earth's are clean and that you have good continuity between the wire and frame.
As you know your bike earths the r/r through the body so the addition of a ground wire to the frame earth would be a good idea (which was incorporated on the post '89 bikes)
Something like this would work, more details here.
View attachment 1721656633672.webp
I would also ensure all earth's are clean and that you have good continuity between the wire and frame.
As you know your bike earths the r/r through the body so the addition of a ground wire to the frame earth would be a good idea (which was incorporated on the post '89 bikes)
Something like this would work, more details here.
View attachment 1721656633672.webp
On your 3 stator leads check from each one to ground-your meter should show OL or infinity ohms. There is no check for this in the factory manual. If any of them are not OL your stator is shorted to ground and needs to be replaced along with the regulator now. Mine tested at .4 0hms between all leads and it was shorted to ground.
I wil check this out for sure. But an odd thing. I charged it up at the work(yes i was prepared and had an extension cord and my charger in my back pack) fuelled up 3.8 gallons(that was close) and rocketed straight home down the expressway instead of taking the side roads. No issues. Left it sitting for a couple days and she fired up like nothing was wrong. Checked my ground wires everything was tight. Next install is going to be a NOCO 700cca 8AH 100WH NLP 30 battery with a disconnect on the luggage rack. So if the smaller NOCO 400cca in the battery box doesnt get me going i can flip a switch and boom Auxillary power to get me home.
Tight doesn't mean low or zero resistance - you need to measure resistance and if necessary clean the mating surfaces.
Why go to the expense and complexity of buying and installing a second battery when it would appear that you haven't diagnosed what is causing your problem?
Rather than take a scatter gun approach it is far quicker and cheaper to conduct diagnosis in a structured and logical manner.
Hint: Work through the attachment in post #10.
I work 14 on, 2 off. Limited play time with 4 kids. Pulled ground connections from frame and engine, used a piece of scotchbright and cleaned the mating surfaces just in case. Second battery was install is soo easy and it helps I had it. It powered my fish finder on my kayak last year.
When you have stuff it doesn't cost you extra money. 
Wires are hidden under luggage rack and a marine battery disconnect is inside the box. The box is secured with 2 bolts and 2 plates. the bungie strap secures the lid for now.
Resisitance between stator to ground is OL on all 3 leads.
I notice a voltage drop on the bike when crusing below 3k rpms and in "stoplight" traffic. On the expressway this morning on my home from work output voltage from the R/R was at 14.7 volts @7k rpms.(Yes I wired in a voltmeter from the positive output of the R/R). I run 2 voltage gauges. One on output of the R/R and one battery voltage gauge. So if the battery gets low I can pull pull over and activate the Auxillary battery.
By using Li-ion batteries equipped with BMS I can avoid overcharging, overheating and such with the electrical work.
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Fair enough but it does imply that offering any more advice would be a waste of time.
Your choice of how you proceed of course, but IMO rather than work round the problem it would be far better to identify the root cause and fix the issue.
Your choice of how you proceed of course, but IMO rather than work round the problem it would be far better to identify the root cause and fix the issue.
My concern at this point after working through the flow chart is that I cannot find the error.
Changed batteries.
Stator has good connectivity and output. Passes every test. The R/R is low but within "operating range." But it doesnt explain why the battery isnt charging. Perhaps my battery is a dud(despite being brand new). The system isnt charging the additional battery either.
I am open to suggestions at this point. I have another R/R from a 2008 zx14 new in box, that I'll dropnin and see if there are any changes. other than that I am pretty much out of ideas.
Load-test the battery.
Took the battery to brick and mortar before work. It is not the battery.
Did you check the rectifier diodes per Fire Medics post above? Did you check the AC voltages on each leg while running and plugged in? did you check the AC voltages on each leg unplugged while running? I think you will find your answer somewhere in these 3 questions.
The R/R was weak. Diodes were good. idle charge was 13.x
Swapped in zx14 R/R. Idle charge with highbeams and fans running 14.2v fans off with low beams 14.6v.
Everything is stable above 3k rpms at 14.6V regardless of whether my fans or high beams are running.
I think we can count this as win. I'll go out for a rip and see if this battery dies again. Jump pack in the back pack and extra battery onthe luggage rack.
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