!!!Working fuel gauge, FOR REAL this time!!!

[RagingMain]

Ok so I think the guage is a little messed up.

Reading with 35ohm resistor was under the full mark. Heck even with the send and neg touching, zero resistance, it would not get above 7/8.

At 240ohms is was under the E.

Gonna go grab a different gauge today and see how it works.

Also got some info from tech support about this sender and he said it takes a couple of fill ups for it to "learn" where full is.

 

[vmax626]

Thats cool,
I`m still looking for a matching fuel guage and a plug for the o/p guage so the beast will ride again.
<<Dave>>unk:

 

[satariel666]

Ok so I think the guage is a little messed up.

Reading with 35ohm resistor was under the full mark. Heck even with the send and neg touching, zero resistance, it would not get above 7/8.

At 240ohms is was under the E.

Gonna go grab a different gauge today and see how it works.

Also got some info from tech support about this sender and he said it takes a couple of fill ups for it to "learn" where full is.

And thats intresting.
Self learning potentiometer? :ummm:


Maybe it does have some calibration?

 

[RagingMain]

Quick update
Yes it is working!!! Yeah Baby
If you do this need to find a gasoline resistant sealant to use with the cork. It seeps a bit.

Also if you are going to use a Full Sweep electric gauge , 270 degrees, you wont be able to use an Autometer Programable gauge. I guess the gauge and the sender are not compatible. The gauge pulses the sender to verify its reading, kind of an update and it "confuses" the sender.

If you are going to just use a normal sweep, 90 degree gauge, then this sender is fine.

Mounting the gauge is up to you. Right now mine is on the handle bars. I am making a new gauge template and going to install it in the dash.

 

[RagingMain]

Hey Guys some really really good news!!! :eusa_dance::eusa_dance::eusa_dance:

If you remember in the beginning I had to shorten the sender to prevent it from hitting the back of the tank.
Also because the tank is sloped up to I had to use some extra cork to keep it level which puts some stress on the bolts and the blind rivet nuts because they are not at the same angle.

Well I called the people that make the sender, CentroidProducts, and they have a solution.

They make a 1/4" tubing sender that is bendable.
When you do your install you can put a small bend in the tube to angle the tube towards the front of the tank and clear the back part.
They are also making it with a dampening feature which along with the already built in dampening due to the design it will really prevent the slosh effect from our tanks.

Alos if you plan to do this and use a regular 90*, short sweep, gauge then you will need the dampening feature. Most of the short sweep gauges out there bounce a lot.

If you do use a full sweep gauge, there is only one out there that works with the sender
Marshall Instruments. (google them)
If you get this gauge u have to have your sender programmed with a LINEAR curve.

This is the setup I am going with
Marshall Gauge; Centroid 11" 3 terminal sender with bendable tubing, linear curve and dampening feature.

This is what I have found to provide the absolute best reading all the way down to 1/2" off the bottom.

This will allow your OEM light to come on as usual and then still have your gauge reading how much fuel you have left.

Also the Marshall Instrument gauges have an alarm feature that you can program yourself.
Lets say you set it to 1/8 of a tank, the amber back lighting will flash slowly 1/8 and lower. It will also light an external light if you want it to, you can put a light up by your speedo and it will alert you when you are at your predetermined setpoint.

I am excited about all this. :biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh::eusa_dance::eusa_dance::eusa_dance:unk:unk:unk::clapping::clapping::clapping:

 

[98Redlne]

Great work on all of this. I think this mod will be one that goes on the list for next winter.

I would assume that this sensor will work with just about any sender that can deal with the resistance? I was thinking of trying to get the fuel gague working on a Koso RX-2N instrument cluster.

 

[RagingMain]

Great work on all of this. I think this mod will be one that goes on the list for next winter.


I would assume that this sensor will work with just about any sender that can deal with the resistance? I was thinking of trying to get the fuel gague working on a Koso RX-2N instrument cluster.

That is another cool feature of this sender. When u order you just tell them, Mary actually she is the lady that answers the phone there, what u need the sender to do. For example u give them the settings of ur kosko unit and they will program ur sender for whatever u need. I just happened to go with the 240/33 cuz I wanted a full sweep gauge. They look better in my opinion, with greater accuracy and with the stepper motor they are vibration/ shock proof. That might be useful on our bikes ;-)

 

[vmax626]

:worthy::worthy::worthy::clapping:unk::eusa_dance::th_image003::th_image003::th_image003:

 

[MADMAX]

Anybody putting together kits?

 

[RagingMain]

Anybody putting together kits?

I could put some kits together for anyone interested but it is not going to be cheap.

Plus it takes awhile to get it all put together so unless you have a core pod to start with your bike will be down for a couple of weeks.

Here is a quick break down of what I have spent so far
$70 Programable Fuel sender 240/33 ohm
$200 Gauges, Fuel and Oil Pressure or what ever you choose.
$70 Dash Metal, the first one I made wasnt accurate so I had to have one made
$25 LEDs, misc wire stuff
$365 total just in material
Of course it is labor intensive to disasemble old pod and rewire in new gauges and LEDs. Travel time to pick up stuff.
So looking at least $450-$475 total for labor and parts

Not trying to discourage anyone, just want to be up front about how much it takes to get this done.

 

[vmax626]

Damn Fargo you sound like me,
I don`t know just how much I`ve spent /wasted ??
on my control scoop.
I`ve gone through a couple of scoops and wire, switches, led lamps, hours of labor, face plates, sanding and painting.
That stuff adds up without even thinking about it.:ummm:
<<Dave>>unk:

 

[RagingMain]

Well because I am not one to leave well enough alone, I have already made a modification to this.

I ordered a new sender, bendable this time. It is skinnier than the other and allows for a curve to be put in it. I put the bend in myself, it came straight.

This allows for it to seat properly on the top and still clear the back of the tank.

See below.

If anyone wants to do this shoot me a PM and I will be more than happy to help you avoid the mistakes, and cost, I have suffered along the way.

 

[vmax626]

ME, ME, ME, ME, ME, ME, ME.:eusa_dance:
LOL:rofl_200:
<<Dave>>

 

[Redbone]

That's great news Fargo! Congratulations on getting a working fuel gauge for the Vmax! I'm sure there are a few out there that will want this mod, I am interested but will have to wait for the winter mod season, I don't want to interrupt my already short riding season.
Any pics of your finished install?

 

[RagingMain]

Will post some up tomorrow
I can say the super bright LEDs are exactly that!!!

 

[RagingMain]

Here is a video I took today
The one thing I really like is the oil pressure gauge isnt jumping around like a mechanical gauge.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xphNwvSmtn8

But here is another problem
With the fuel level LED needing a 470 ohm resistor and the OEM light only having 8 ohms resistance not enough current is making it to the OEM level sensor and now the bike has to run in reserve in order to bypass the circuit. :bang head:

Any thoughts on how to fix this??? :confused2:

 

[88Vmax]

dont have an idea on the resistor but it looks real nice. clean setup....:clapping::worthy:

 

[Bon-86]

Here is a video I took today
But here is another problem
With the fuel level LED needing a 470 ohm resistor and the OEM light only having 8 ohms resistance not enough current is making it to the OEM level sensor and now the bike has to run in reserve in order to bypass the circuit. :bang head:

Any thoughts on how to fix this??? :confused2:

The original fuel light bulb is really about 48 ohms when it's on because it is a 3 watt bulb. It only measures 8 ohms when it's off/cold. You can wire in a ~48 ohm resistor in parallel with the led and its series resistor. I'd recommend a 5-10 watt resistor just to be safe and help keep it cool. The 48 ohm resistor will provide just enough current to trigger the fuel reserve circuit and all should return to normal.

 

[RagingMain]

The original fuel light bulb is really about 48 ohms when it's on because it is a 3 watt bulb. It only measures 8 ohms when it's off/cold. This is the normal conditon to allow current through the circuit so that is why I measured it cold. You can wire in a ~48 ohm resistor in parallel with the led and its series resistor. I'd recommend a 5-10 watt resistor just to be safe and help keep it cool. The 48 ohm resistor will provide just enough current to trigger the fuel reserve circuit and all should return to normal.

See above in red.
But the circuit is through the light
Wouldnt another resistor in parallel reduce the overall resistance in the circuit and pop the LED??? I know by experience if you take two resistors in parallel the total resistance is half of the two combined. Or would I have to go around the light all together and back to the level sender to complete the circuit.

 

[Bon-86]

I'm most comfortable when I can draw pictures. I quickly composed this pic in Paint - yuk. But, The resistor and led on the left shows what you have already. The resistor on the right is what you should add. The additional current flows through the added resistor but not through the LED and it's current limiting resistor. A Light bulbs resistance changes dramatically from when they are cold and hot. The fuel reserve circuit expects this and that is why the ~48 ohm current will work just like the light bulb.