Yukoner's NEED HELP list:

[yukonerdave]

Things have been going better than I expected putting everything back together, but I've run into a couple hitches. I'm getting ready to call in some backup (I know a local backyard mechanic who might do a house call), but before I do I thought I'd see what kind of help I could get from you guys without actually being here. I'm happy to take pics/video clips of anything if it would be of help.

1. I mounted the rear wheel and turned it before tightening the axle nut or filling the final drive oil. There is a clunking noise - I couldn't figure out if it in in the pumpkin or at the U-Joint. Here is a link to a video clip with sound:

LINK

It probably sounds louder/harsher in the video than it actually is. I can't remember if it made any such noise before taking it apart, but I won't just assume that it is normal

2. V-Boost isn't cycling when I turn the key on. It WAS cycling before I mounted the carbs and starting putting everything else back on. The servo motor isn't engaging it all so it sounds like its just not getting power. Lights come on, so I know the battery has juice. I only have one black wire connected to the battery's negative terminal - is that normal? Any other thoughts?

3. Installed Busa calipers on the front with Sean's adapters. They fit well and mount fine right until the last quarter-turn of the mounting bolt. As soon as I tighten the mounting bolts up, the calipers seem to seize on the disc and the wheel won't turn. Actually, just before they are good and tight, the wheel turns through most of its rotation, but then gets stuck at a certain point. I thought maybe a warped disc, but it does the same thing on both sides, even when the other caliper is removed. Maybe 2 warped discs but that sounds unlikely. I tried adding washers behind the adapter, but had the same problem with every way that I tried it.

4. Brake master cylinder was rebuilt. There is no fluid in it yet, but when I pull the lever it doesn't spring back. I'm not sure if this means that I need to re-rebuild it or not. The clutch side does spring back.

I think thats it (for now). Of course, I haven't even tried firing her up yet (waiting on a couple parts), but I'm sure I'll have some carb tweaking to do as well. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[tugla]

have you tried putting a washer under the bolt and not the caliper, that will limit the bolt from going in as far, maybe its a little too long :confused2:

not sure on your noise, never turned mine without oil in it to see if it makes that noise.for a loose nut seems a little tight when you were turning it, maybe im just seeing something thats not there.

id start with checking connections for the vboost, unplug take a look nothing is wrong or corroded and reinstall, wouldn't hurt to chg batt then try.

 

[one2dmax]

Watch the caliper at the last turn and see if it's maybe cocking with that last turn and shifting over. See which side of the rotor is binding. There is very little room to adjust from one side to the other so it may be that the washer you used was too thick and bound the rotor on the opposite side of the caliper.

Sean

 

[95spfldmax]

Watch the caliper at the last turn and see if it's maybe cocking with that last turn and shifting over. See which side of the rotor is binding. There is very little room to adjust from one side to the other so it may be that the washer you used was too thick and bound the rotor on the opposite side of the caliper.

Sean

At the risk of getting a Hijack tag.......

Sean, do you know if you can put 8mm (approx '06) front rotors in place of the 5.5-6.0mm (approx '95) rotors? Is it as simple as pushing back the pads & pistons? Or are their other clearance issues to consider? Thanks.

......you may now resume to our regularly scheduled thread topic (after I get my answer :eusa_dance

 

[one2dmax]

The Vmax rotors from all years will interchange as far as bolting to the wheel. BUT, the newer ones (93+) are going to need adapters to get the caliper farther out from center if used on the 85-92 forks. You could swap the other way too but then need to move the calipers inboard (though there is no reason to go that route). I'm not sure the rotor thickness changed from 93-07 or from 85-92.

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

I thought the front rotors from 93-07 are all the same.

yukoner. for the final drive, how did u tighten up the bolts on the pumpkin?

u'll want to loosen them and make sure the axle is thru, or even better the whole tire assembly is on before you torque them to spec b/c there is a lot of play in the rotation of the pumpkin.

 

[yukonerdave]

Cool - I'll try that, Garrett. I had them tightened before mounting the wheel. You are talking about the four bolts securing the pumpkin to the swingarm right?

 

[[email protected]]

Dave,

Someone posted this on the site a while ago. It didn't seem to be the same issue you're having but possibly related or similar? Not sure if you dropped the swingarm and separated the pumkin from it or not but I remember them saying that there is a special way that it should all be re-aligned. Check out the attachment.

 

[gamorg02]

thats exactly what i was referring to Mike.

just remember dave, you can't tighten the axle nut as it will just pull the axle thru w/out the rest of the stuff. but if you have it all mounted up, i'd loosen the pumpkin bolts just enough so it can sit naturally with everything else connected and let it sit how it wants, then try spinning it and see if that resolves it. if it doesn't then don't tighten them back down yet, if it does then there's your problem.

 

[yukonerdave]

Hey that .pdf helps a lot - Thank you. I will follow those instructions tonight and see what happens with it.

 

[jfeagins]

That clip sounded to me like your driveshaft splines weren't even in the u-joint and the shaft is just lying on the bottom of the housing flopping around.

Is that even possible? :confused2:

 

[yukonerdave]

That's actually what I thought at first! The swingarm is fastened to the pumpkin on the one end and the rubber shield looks to be correctly wrapped around the U-Joint housing on the other end. The shocks and everything else lines up properly. Given all of that, IS it possible that the shaft isn't engaged with the U-joint??? Wouldn't everything be misaligned? I just finished mounting my pipes and shocks and what-not, so I didn't want to take everything apart again to check it out, but of course I will do that if it sounds like it might be the problem.

 

[KJShover]

IS it possible that the shaft isn't engaged with the U-joint??? Wouldn't everything be misaligned? I just finished mounting my pipes and shocks and what-not, so I didn't want to take everything apart again to check it out, but of course I will do that if it sounds like it might be the problem.

It's possible, I hate to admit it. but the first install of my braced swingarm it was just that. I buttoned everything up. Fired the bike up and kicked it into gear. and nothing but noise. I ended up screwing up the clip at the end of the shaft, but luckily I have a few of them on hand.

 

[yukonerdave]

Yup, I agree. It is possible...

I had tried to fit the shaft in after mounting the swingarm. I guess that's the wrong way to do it. Looks like I need to take the swing arm off again and make sure the shaft is fully engaged before re-attaching everything. Anyway, that's one down!

Also, I looked closer at the calipers and figures out where it was catching - couple of washers in the right places cleared it up so that's 2 down! I'm going to take apart my brake M/C tonight and figure out what went wrong there. With any luck, that'll be 3 down.

I haven't looked at the Vboost wiring yet. I suppose I must have loosened a connection or something while putting everything back together because, like I said, it was cycling before I started.

Regardless of how that turns out, however, this was a GOOD day for me on VmaxForum

Thanks so much to everyone - if you ever find yourself in Lafayette, IN I owe you a few beers!!

 

[gamorg02]

i attached my swingarm first. made sure the u joint pointed down. then took a few tries but got the driveshaft in there. could tell b/c i couldn't turn the driveshaft easily. then popped the pumpkin on.

 

[naughtyG]

The way I've done my pumpkin is pretty much the same as Garrett - when I pulled the pumpkin the shaft came with it. I haven't ever removed the swingarm yet. Then to put it back, check out with a flashlight which way the u-joint is pointing inside the swingarm (down defo helps), then push the shaft in there and, feeling your way around, get the end of the shaft into the right place so you can life the u-joint with it then push it in. It's a royal PITA but it feels so good once it's in there! :biglaugh: Then just line up the pumpkin on the other end and carefully push it fully onto the shaft. Careful as in don't pull on it or it'll pop out of the u-joint again..

About your M/C, it sounds like it's missing a spring under the lever. It's easy to overlook this little guy - it pops out often unnoticed!

For the Vboost, check all connections - left hand scoop controller, connector on the Vboost servo, fuses etc. Also you can always try applying 12V directly to the servo to make sure it's still ok. I have a spare controller if you need to try that, although on my bike when I tried it, it cycled fine but didn't open at 6k. I think that's a prob with my bike tho, not the controller.

 

[gamorg02]

i actually had the shaft in the u-joint the first time but forgot grease. so i hadda pull it then putting it back in got it stuck under the ujoint. put an allen key in the end of the driveshaft so i could get a little leverage to get it back out.

this was all without the shocks attached.

 

[vmax626]

I had the same problem when I put my rear rim back on that Fargo gave me and got the same noise, the problem turned out this:, there is a spacer that is inside the pumpkin side of the rim , and I left it in the old rim and when I put it back together , It made the same noise and then, I looked at the old rim and saw it there and realized that I forgot to put it in the rim that Fargo gave me, I tore it back apart and installed it and the noise was gone, I felt so stupid but it fixed the problem anyway.
Just my 2 cnts worth.
<<Dave>>unk:

 

[gamorg02]

hey dave do u mean the inner needle bearing race?

 

[yukonerdave]

Couple of things to add to the knowledge base:

1. Inserting the driveshaft into the U-Joint is a LOT easier if you first drop the swingarm as low as it'll go (without the shocks on). I had a hell of a time getting it to line up until I tried that - went smoothly after.

2. Sean's Busa adapters will not fit on the rear - they don't make it into the bracket. No Busa's all around for me I guess (not that there is any need for a 6 pot caliper on the rear, especially with SS lines).