Yukoner's NEED HELP list:

[dannymax]

OK, hold the presses!! Garrett's fiche is, of course, correct!!

These are pics of '99 & Sallymax, which puts the jam nut on the non M/C side (I guess), and it's set up this way so you can easily access the jam nut I s'pose!

 

[one2dmax]

more then likely you will want to move the jam nut all the way against the head of the screw. Adjust it to get the travel you need (more then stock with the 6 piston calipers) then snug it down.

Sean

 

[yukonerdave]

Huh. Weird. With the nut on the non-M/C side I don't get any decent brake action until the lever is touching the grip. With it on the other side, brakes feel great. I can't pull the lever more than 3/4 of the way to the grip. Sounds like this is indicative of some other problem, and I'd like to have it set up properly. In the meantime, however, can anyone think of a reason NOT to have the nut on the other side if it makes my brakes work? What about back bleeding the rear?

 

[yukonerdave]

I've asked this already I think but could someone also confirm that there is nothing contacting the pushrod in the M/C except the threaded bolt?

 

[dannymax]

I've asked this already I think but could someone also confirm that there is nothing contacting the pushrod in the M/C except the threaded bolt?

Dave, the bolt, and nothing else, makes contact with the M/C.

Is your set up like my pics, or does the nut have to be on the 'in-board' side to have good brakes?

 

[vmaxcruzer]

Maybe theres a different length screw (bolt) on some years.:ummm: With mine on the inside, closer to the M/C I have brake contact way away from the bar 1/4 inch or so from full forward.

 

[yukonerdave]

Mine is 7/8" exactly from the BOTTOM of the head to the tip (i.e. JUST the threaded section not including head).

 

[dannymax]

Maybe theres a different length screw (bolt) on some years.:ummm: With mine on the inside, closer to the M/C I have brake contact way away from the bar 1/4 inch or so from full forward.

I just checked the fiche for '97 and they show the nut on the outboard side of the lever, same as my pics......I honestly don't see any difference whether the nut jams from the inboard or outside side as long as you can get to it with a wrench....right? :confused2:

 

[one2dmax]

By moving the nut to the inside you are able to contact the plunger sooner. There is nothing wrong at all with having it on that side if that's where it works the best. And you are correct that there is nothing between the bolt and plunger.

Sean

 

[dannymax]

Mine is 7/8" exactly from the BOTTOM of the head to the tip (i.e. JUST the threaded section not including head).

Being still mounted I can't say 'exactly', but these look to be 7/8" also.

 

[yukonerdave]

The only other thing I can think of is if it is possible to install the plunger too far into the M/C. That would increase the distance between the lever bolt and the end of the plunger, thus requiring my repositioning of the nut. The plunger is just held in by a circlip, and I just assumed that there is only one notch that the clip would fit in. I'll look at closer when I get home today, but otherwise I suppose I'll just leave the nut on the inside and hope that it works as well as it feels.

BTW I picked up my new oversize DieHard AGM battery today. It is sitting on the charger. Y'all keep your fingers crossed for me and maybe I'll get a ride in tonight!

 

[dannymax]

You got it Yukoner!!

 

[vmaxcruzer]

There's only one set of grooves in the housing so if the clip is snapped in then the piston is seated.
The rubber boot has to be gently pushed to the bottom. If you place the jam nut on the outside it will limit the depth of the bolt by the thickness of the nut. That's why mine is on the inside, it still locks the adjustment like Sean said. I prefer the lever to apply brake pressure just off of full open, maybe around a half inch of pull. If you don't then swap the nut to the outside and it will bring it closer to the bar.

 

[poppop]

The only other thing I can think of is if it is possible to install the plunger too far into the M/C. That would increase the distance between the lever bolt and the end of the plunger, thus requiring my repositioning of the nut. The plunger is just held in by a circlip, and I just assumed that there is only one notch that the clip would fit in. I'll look at closer when I get home today, but otherwise I suppose I'll just leave the nut on the inside and hope that it works as well as it feels.

BTW I picked up my new oversize DieHard AGM battery today. It is sitting on the charger. Y'all keep your fingers crossed for me and maybe I'll get a ride in tonight!

i wish you the best of luck poppop

 

[yukonerdave]

OK couple more things:

New battery is definitely better, but I still have a starting problem. More often than not the starter turns the engine REALLY slow. It almost always catches. Once in a while (maybe 1/10 times), it turns the way it should and catches quickly. Sometimes, however, I hear a god-awful clunk when I hit the start button. Sounds like it is coming from the left front of the engine. I know the flywheel and starter clutch are in there, and I also know that they are prone to error. I take it that the most common error, however is for the starter clutch to kind of spin freely without turning the engine. I am not having that problem; rather I get a loud clunk every once in a while. I've never heard it with the engine running; only when trying to start.

I replaced both the starter and battery because of my lousy starting issue, and I've also cleaned the ground wire connections. Now it seems like I've got a problem internal to the engine.

If someone can give me a relatively good idea of what might be causing this, and can let me know how difficult it might be to fix, I'll attempt it on my own. If not, I'm throwing in the towel and finding a local mechanic

 

[yukonerdave]

1

 

[dannymax]

O ya, I said a "couple" more things. Here's the other.

Poppop suggested that my loud backfiring is due to an exhaust leak and I think he is probably right. I'm wondering if anyone has HMF headers. The top of the headers (part that goes into the engine) is about 1 1/2" long, and ends in a flange that bolts on to secure it. The rear headers have at least 1/2" inside the engine block, maybe a little more. The front headers only have AT MOST a 1/4" in - they are sticking out considerably further than the rears. I assume that they are supposed to be the same, but I'd like it if someone could confirm. I tried removing the front headers and refitting them, but I just can't get them to seat into the engine block any further. I do have new exhaust gaskets all around.

Not being a dickhead Dave, but did you remove the old gaskets from the front exhaust ports before adding the new ones? :confused2:

 

[one2dmax]

you could still have a starter clutch problem. It's not all that uncommon as you pointed out and as they get worse the noised obviously get worse and chance. If it's not cranking over very quickly then you may have a bar starter but you already said you changed that out.

Sean

 

[yukonerdave]

Not being a dickhead Dave, but did you remove the old gaskets from the front exhaust ports before adding the new ones? :confused2:

Not being a dickhead at all, man I actually did try to install them originally without removing the old gasket, so don't put something like that past me! I removed one front header and measured things and it looks like I had it right after all. I have 8mm within the engine head, and the exhaust gasket is 5mm think, so there is only 3mm of room for the pipe to stick in. Exhaust gaskets are all the same thickness, correct? If not, then maybe I put thinner gaskets in the rear and thicker ones int he front - that would explain the discrepancy I've got between the two.

 

[one2dmax]

The OEM are the same front to rear but I have seen aftermarket ones that were a bit thinner. Shouldn't hurt either way.

Sean