Adventures with Powdercoating

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I've read more threads on PC'ing than I care too and the concensus from others that have owned the craftsman gun is that it is prone to failure. I've also seen vids where it was used on very small parts and it seemed to do ok. The powder cup is very small but not a problem for small jobs. It is most certainly one of the more inexpensive paths into PC'ing with the added bonus of not needing an air supply. Others may have different opinions...
 
It actually has been working GREAT!!! Add a large toaster oven and you are in business!! Highly recommend!!

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I left the pinion in and got the rest out. Even taping the Sh&t out of it I still had fine grit I flushed in the dip tank. Pinion spins smooth as "Buttah". I guess I will hold on to the picture with the numbers from the housing til I reinstall it or go through the manual and check for proper mesh.
Hope coating goes uneventfully.
 
Yeah...I wouldn't (and didn't) beadblast unless I could get everything out...No biggy, cover still came out ok...
 
Working on buddy's Vrod tins...He chose Black Red from PBTP...It's not the best flowing powder in the world (I get slight OP no matter what), but I was able to make it real nice by shooting a good layer of clear over it...pics to come...
 
Vrod tins with base coat...Black Red...clear to follow. Largest pieces to date...EZ50 gun is very efficient...used very little base color :punk:
 

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I like that you are using PBTP, because they will send a single pound to Australia from their ebay shop, which I think is great.
I think I'm going to have to get some of that black you used. :biglaugh:

Is the black/red picture an accurate representation of the colour?
 
Bazwell - the pic is accurate...the Black Red looks like a deep burgundy...I don't like how it goes on...thick or thin you get the same OP texture...I'll be laying a think layer of clear on these to smooth them out & get the 90% gloss that the Black Red was supposed to have all by itself. The Extreme Black is great...super durable and it flows real well. Only downside is that it must have a ton of clear or flow agent as it doesn't look quite black black...if you catch my drift...
 
I had a batch of black that was a brownish undertone. Very subtle but I could tell. Tossed that crap. Black should be black in my book. I wonder what's causing the OP? Good the clear is smoothing things out as long as things aren't getting too thick. Wonder if it was shot clear first then color on top would make any difference. Too late to try now anyhow.
 
Well...PBTP tried really hard to steer me away from that powder...they sent 2 other samples of close colors...but my bud wanted that color so that's what I'm working with. My guess is that it's just the powder...it flows for crap and the gloss level is no where near 90%. Not sure why you'd want to shoot a color over the clear...unless you're assuming that the substrate was not smooth...but that's not the case...these tins are factory HD and are anodized from the factory...I sanded each piece with 220 so I'm comfy that the metal is not the issue...
 
Bazwell - the pic is accurate...the Black Red looks like a deep burgundy...I don't like how it goes on...thick or thin you get the same OP texture...I'll be laying a think layer of clear on these to smooth them out & get the 90% gloss that the Black Red was supposed to have all by itself. The Extreme Black is great...super durable and it flows real well. Only downside is that it must have a ton of clear or flow agent as it doesn't look quite black black...if you catch my drift...

Thanks mate. I think it looks muddy. :biglaugh:
Are you saying that you mix the extreme black with some clear to get it flowing right?
 
My thought was a glass smooth clear might somehow allow the color to flow out smoother. Not questioning your prep, just trying to think outside the box for a solution. I'll admit I tried a few things that didn't work and was part of the learning curve for me.
 
No...I didn't mix anything...the Black Red is a solid color...if I lay down a good layer of clear it smooths out the base coat and raises the gloss level. I think PBTP knew the Black Red was iffy...what is why they tried to steer me away from it. I'm 99.9% sure it's the powder. But as I said...my buddy likes the color so I have to deal with it as best as possible. I tried to steer him to the Extreme Wet Black as it shoots so damn well, but he wants a unique ride...can't fault him for that!

I ahave zero issues with the Extreme Wet Black...that stuff is the jizz! Shot my rear wheel last night...thrilled with the results...

Not so thrilled with how long it takes (first wheel)...
 

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Yes...just the bolt holes were pluged. If I have any fitment issues I can use a Q-tip dipped in Erase and strip any tolerance related areas. The Erase eats through PC almost on contact.
 
What am I doing incorrectly when after I have a part that has been coated, fully cured, sits for weeks, and then when I wipe it down with acetone to put another coat on it, the powder gets "sticky" and comes off?? I am using Eastwood's powder.

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Yeah...one of two causes:
1) Not fully cured...remember that the cure scshedule is at PMT (part metal temp)...Eastwood is know for giving bad advice...they state 20min after flow-out, but that might be incorrect for a thicker item.
2) Power is crap...never had that issue with Eastwood powders...but there is always a first for everything

What Eastwood powder was it? If you eliminate #1 above, Eastwood will most likely refund/exchange the powder as they have pretty good CS...
 
Thanks for the advice. Not sure of type off the top of my head but I bought the "good" stuff as in not the cheap ones. Without a temp gun, is it possible to OVER bake a part? Can I shoot another coat over the part and rebake it for longer time? This is a fun process, just trying to learn from others "mistakes". :D

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